6.0/4l80e into 97 k1500 questions

[coastsidekid]

Let us know if those long tubes fit. ive been contemplating on buying them, though ive heard there might be some clearance issues with 4wd trucks.

 

[colthard]

my newest issue pertains to the neutral safety switch wiring.

the 4 pin plug is supposedly

blk/wht trans position switch signal bit 1
yel trans position switch signal bit 2
gry trans position switch signal bit 3
wht trans position switch signal bit parity bit

on the 97, these wires enter the firewall beneath the a/c drier and go to the instrument cluster

on the 99, they feed directly into the ecu

i am curious as to what these wires actually are or what they do

should i abandon them at the cluster and leave them attached to the ecu?
should i T them into the 99 engine harness?
should i remove them from the ecu and attach them to the cluster?

also, is the resistance reading different on the oil pressure send unit from the 5.7 to the 5.3 for the gauge?

 

[CodyB]

Let us know if those long tubes fit. ive been contemplating on buying them, though ive heard there might be some clearance issues with 4wd trucks.

Sadly there is in our setup. I had to rebuild them into Medium tube headers, and may be able to lengthen them out a little, but with the engine mounts we had to fabricate for this truck, we have a pretty one off setup right now. Colt will probably correct me but I think he has torsion bars cranked and a 3" body lift. If we had a 6" or better lift or possibly a SAS we could have made those fit with little or no problem, but our current setup didn't allow for the collector to go where it needed to be. It was right in the front drive shaft and yolk and possibly would have been in the steering sector as well. Hope this helps ya out. My suggestion is to go with Shorty headers if your wanting a set better than factory manifolds.

 

[colthard]

even with a 6" ifs drop, the headers would have been fine, but with the IFS in the stock location, it just wasnt gonna happen. the wiring is coming along, but not near being complete.

the motor mount adapters were a complete fail. with them installed the rear face of the engine was at 12" from the back of the motor mount and the transmission was 14" back, so we were left building custom adapter brackets for the correct engine positioning. we also raised the engine almost 2" so that we can clear the factory a/c compressor. again, ill do my best to get pics up as soon as i can, but between work work and working on this project, 18 hour days are getting old quick.

since it appears no one has any solutions to the wiring issues, i guess ill do my best to figure them out and ill post my solution.

it also seems like all the people that do these swaps dont do it with a very key factor to us in mind, which is cost.

we're trying to keep this at the most minimal cost possible, which means, no fancy compressor, no fance wiring harness, no new transmssion, no drive shafts, no bought drive accessory brackets.

we purchased the motor mount brackets which were a complete waste.

the advance adapters transmission adapter was a very high quality product. machining tolerances were perfect, bolt holes lined up perfect and the pilot hub adapter was an absolute perfect fit, so kudos to advance adapters

the wiring has been an absolute headache, but still yet, has allowed us to keep cost down.

heres how everything totals up as it sits

$800 complete engine, ecu, fusebox, 75% complete harness (full engine harness, full front end harness, full rear end harness, and cab pigtail)
$250 Shoenfeld headers - which as Cody said, WILL NOT work on a 4wd unless it has a 6" ifs drop or SAS
$150 advance adapters flywheel adapter
$350 - big trans cooler, electric fans, spectre intake, fuel fittings, gaskets, seals, and other misc items.

the only major remaining expenses are the a/c hose assembly we're going to have made as well as exhaust tubing

we also have to come up with radiator hoses

i'll do my best to get pictures as soon as possible and keep this thread updated

 

[coastsidekid]

Right on Thanks for letting me know about the headers, i have a 6" lift so hopefully they will work out for me. I used Dirty Dingo Motor mounts and i had the crossmember line up. I used a large "supercooler" radiator from a 454 burb and used the stock radiator hoses from my 2004 donor. Power steering hoses will work from the donor truck. The oil cooler can be used by cutting the rubber hose part from the motors oil cooler lines and use barb to barb fittings to hook up to radiator using 1/2? inverted flare fittings with a barb fitting on the other side. The swap can be done fairly cheap if you dont run into problems which would rare. Let me know if you got questions

 

[colthard]

well,
motor is in and bolted up

highly modified LH header is on

RH exhaust is done, LH hasnt been started.

Power steering is hooked up

Radiator/heater/upper coolant pipe hoses are hooked up

Factory compressor is in place and hooked up with our a/c hose we had made, but not charged

second alternator bracket is attached and finally found a belt that fits

wiring harness is complete. we ended up using the 97 fuse box and breaking out the engine harness which was 10 times easier then trying to use the 99 fuse box

we seem to be hacing problems with the neutral safety switch plug making contact with the pins in the switch. we've already replaced the switch, but i think they epoxy that melted into the plug is causing contact issues.

as of now, the motor cranks, the P R 3 2 1 lights work but no drive or neutral lights, which again come back to the plug at the switch.

our major massive crappy problem now is that we have spark, but no fuel.

fuel pump primes like expected, we have 60 lbs at the rail, the pressure regulator works correctly when applying different amounts of vacuum. all 8 injectors have 12v constant at them, and as best i can tell im not getting pulse from the ecu ground side.

the injectors are not firing and all of the plugs stay bone dry.

the only codes im able to retrieve are evap and egr which we dont have. i have a jet dst tuner and turned those codes off but still havent gotten any other codes. everything else is hooked up and all the motor does is crank but never hits/spits/sputters because of no fuel. i set up a noid light and also got no response from the light.

i checked all four ecu ground pins for ground and i get 0 ohms from pin to batt neg.

i suspect the ecu is bad, but i would have though that if i have spark, it would also trigger the fuel injectors.... but evidently im wrong...

what sucks is that if the ecu is bad, i wasted a license on a bad ecu and it was my last one, so now i have to send it to jet and pay another $100 for an additional license...

anyone have any input here?

 

[CodyB]

Throw away the set of injectors, you have on the motor, then the next set you go get, then keep that third set and itll fire right up.

 

[colthard]

so as it turns out, we had 16, yes 16 bad injectors. the third set finally gave us fuel output and the motor now runs. all thats left now are things like the prnd321 indicators, tach, a/c, 2nd alt bracket finishing touches, fluids and exhaust.

 

[colthard]

we now have most everything complete

PRND321 works and turned out really easy once i figured it out

we're still working on finishing up the cooling fan wiring

the a/c system had a leaky o-ring on the pressure sensor behind the compressor, but now we are good to go with the 99 OE compressor
we still have to finish the drivers exhaust bank

i was able to calibrate the tach using jet DST, along with turning on downstream 02, evap, egr, and adjusting speedo calibrations.
i was able to turn on electric fans with the tuner, but the pins for a 411 ecu are not the same as this 99 ecu, so i have no idea which pins to use in order to control the fans just yet.

cody is working on setting up a completely redone 4hi mod that will rely on a separate B+ feed to relays so there isnt any chance of having low voltage to the 55 watt hids

ill try and keep everyone updated as i can and when its all said and done ill take a bunch of pictures and make a dedicated thread for the swap

 

[94 Silverado]

Throw away the set of injectors, you have on the motor, then the next set you go get, then keep that third set and itll fire right up.

How did you know? lol