'50 Chevy 3100

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Orpedcrow

I don’t know what I’m doing
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Dude wants $1600 to do 8 stripes, and 4 angle pieces. I was expecting around $500, so you can imagine my surprise. Needless to say, I'll be painting them
Good grief!!

It’ll look nice when you’re done!

I would put some paint on your rabbeted edges too.
 
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GrimsterGMC

Thunder from "Down Under"
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Didn't get much time to work on this, but got the router bit I ordered, and squeezed in some time for it.

Routed a rabbet the thickness of the aluminum stripes, on a couple test pieces.

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Happy with that, I did all the boards, so that step is out of the way.

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I'm committed to going black on all the aluminum, and thought powder coating would be the way to go. That was until I got a quote. Dude wants $1600 to do 8 stripes, and 4 angle pieces. I was expecting around $500, so you can imagine my surprise. Needless to say, I'll be painting them.
Have you thought about black anodizing as it would harden the surface of the metal as well as making it more mark resistant?
 

Stumpy

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Getting close to the finish line for this piece of the project. Seems like I've been working on this forever, but it's my own fault. It evolved from a simple bed floor update, to a full on upgrade, but I'm happy with where it's going.

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Inner bed painted, after getting rid of some poor, and mostly unnecessary bondo work, that a hammer and dolly was able to fix, in less time to do the bondo. Top part of the bed rails got the same treatment as the fenders, with the blue/black mix, but the majority of the innards got spray bomb bedliner, with straight blue over the top.

Fillers for the tubs, with 1-1/4" and 2" dimple die holes. Shiny here, but I went over them with satin clear.

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Pretty much took me all day to put this together. I've mocked this whole thing up before, but you'd never know it today. Had several areas fighting the assemble process.

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I wound up painting all the aluminum with epoxy paint. It's pretty strong as far as paint goes, and it'll be easy to touch up.

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Still have to make the filler piece for the gap between the floor, and rear of the bed. I'm going to alternate big and little dimple dies all the way across, and paint it blue. Also have to work on the tailgate, to tie it in.

Got the next 3 days off, so should be able to wrap this thing up.

Also ordered a new back window, and rubber. Watched a couples videos on that, and looks like it's going to be a lot of fun.
 

Stumpy

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Is there a reason for the holes in the wheel well covers?

I can not recall why you raised the bed creating the gap you need to fill at the back?

It looks really sharp and ou are doing some great work.
Holes in the tubs seem like a dumb idea, but I thought it would look cool. I don't drive in the rain, at least for now, so shouldn't be a problem. I may do some kind of backer to close it off, but not be very visible.

The bed floor is raised, because the body sets low on the frame.

Thank you, it's been fun, but I'm ready to work on a different part. lol
 

Stumpy

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Bed project complete, for now...

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Dimple die overload, with stainless steel mesh.

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So happy with the way this turned out.

And, my wife never ceases to amaze me. She knows I've been looking for some bucket seats, with my top choice being some 67 or 68 Camaro seats. Wanting something older that would look like they belong. It's tough finding those, so I was open to other options. Seen some seats on Jegs, and just looking for an opinion, showed them to the wife. She instantly said "Ooh I like those, we should get 'em"......... Mind blown.

Couple days later, they're here.

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Now I think my best option, is to find 4 GMT400 seat risers. I believe they'll give me the height that I need. And adding a little GMT400 flavor isn't bad either.
 

Stumpy

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Last weekend, we trailer this truck to our son's house in Murrells Inlet, so we could drive both our trucks to the Run to the Sun car show, then later on to a C10s after dark cruise in at Barefoot Landing.

Both trucks did well during the 30-40 minute drive, but I noticed my brake pedal getting soft after a while. Turns out the left rear caliper is sticking, and finally got a chance to check it out today.

With the wheel off, the brake is holding it enough, I can't turn the rotor by hand. Cracked open the bleeder, and it freed up. I'm thinking that's good, must be a bad brake line. Got a replacement from the local parts store, and put it on. The wife was too tired to help me bleed the brakes, so I let them gravity bleed for a while. Check the pedal and it's just as firm as it was before the issue, but the caliper is still not letting go.

Only thing left is the caliper, but I'm going to be stumped if that doesn't fix it.

Anything else I should check before spending more money?

I should note this is a 2nd gen S10 Blazer disc brake rear end, on a 1st gen S10 chassis. All the hard lines look good, and I didn't have this problem before I redid the bed, which took a couple months, where it wasn't getting driven much, but was indoors the whole time.
 
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