Finally got a chance to work on my own stuff, instead of everybody else.
Never been a fan of chains on the tailgate, so picked up some cables for a gmt900. Made a little clearance in the tailgate, and used a riv-nut on the bed side.
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No where to really hide any fasteners, so used the "nuts" from some old S10 sway bar links, that work great for holding the cable end, and the tube is threaded on the inside, for bolting it all down, while letting the cable still pivot.
This is what you see from the outside of the tailgate.
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I plan on getting another tailgate at some point. I'll weld that contraption on the inside, so it will be hidden then. For now that's good enough.
Got a wild hair, and started pulling the bed wood, to really see what I was working with.
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What a pain in the ass that was. They used what looked like 5/16", 3" long self taping bolts, with philips heads, and only about half would screw out. Grinding the heads off, didn't help, as they were threaded into the wood as well, so they wouldn't even slip off that way.
Recip saw to the rescue.
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Took way longer than it should have, but it's all out now.
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Still formulating a game plan for the replacement boards. I'll need to add a cross bar about middle ways, and also trying to consider how/where to mount a compressor and tank. My have to get a skinnier tank. I have a fat 5 gallon, and it takes up too much room. Need a long, skinny one.
Forgot to get a picture of the boards, but it's Trex composite stuff. Pebble Gray, if I remember correct.
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I'll be doing flat aluminum strips, and aluminum angle around the perimeter.
Got most of my son's bed done last week, before we had to leave.
This was the last pic I took of his. Those are 2" wide aluminum strips, he didn't like the width, bought 1.5". When I left, all he had to do was drill for the stainless button head bolts, and mount them.
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I've seen the 2" strips work, you just have to space the boards out, so it doesn't cover so much. I may use what he didn't.