5.7l 350 twin turbo setup?

[TLoud]

I found this on ebay today and was wondering if anyone has ever seen this or has done anything like this on a gmt?

Plus this kit seems to be way tooooooooo cheap imo

Twin Turbo SBC Kit

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[MIHELA]

That kit has no plumbing which is the hardest part to make. Most ebay kits have junk turbos, but with some work some of the kit could be used. Holy crap.

 

[MIHELA]

Not to mention you have to fuel this beast, and you'd need a stout bottom end and probably some aluminum heads to avoid pinging. I bet you'd have 7k just to get started. 760HP is pie in the sky.

 

[sewlow]

Bolt that onto a stock engine = grenade w/short fuse!

 

[Aloicious]

ebay chinese turbo kits are problematic. first, the turbos are usually cheaply made, you might be able to have a quality shop balance them and such to help them last a bit longer...second the headers are thin cheap poorly welded "stainless", almost all of them are knowf for cracking, warping, and leaking, there are some ebay stainless turbo headers that are better than others, but most of them at least need reinforcement on the turbo flange to support the weight of the turbos. i didn't go to the ebay link, but that kit picture doesn't show any exhaust piping, intake piping, and oil feed/return plumbing, not to mention an intercooler, which although it isn't a requirement, if you're running anything over like 6psi, you'll need one, and even if you're only running 6psi, you'll still want one. I also don't know if I'd trust ebay cheap no name wastegates too, you need something to control the boost really well, you don't want to get boost creep/etc....

also something to think about, even if you do get a quality twin turbo setup, there are ALOT of other issues you'll need to address right off the bat, for example: running forced induction on a 96+ vortec with the stock intake manifold, you WILL run out of fuel, period. so you'll also be investing in a marine intake or something else to get the proper amount of fuel, then there is PCM tuning which you'll need, and a mail order tune won't cut it, so you'll need to either pay for in person dyno tuning, or better yet get setup to tune the vehicle yourself, which may mean a PCM swap, wideband O2, etc. you'll be fabricating ALOT of stuff for it from intakes, to oil pathways to exhaust, intercooler stuff, so if you don't have a good welder (a TIG if you want to do anything quality with aluminum or stainless) then you'll need to find someone who does. then even once you have a bad ass quality boosted setup on the engine you'll have to think about the trans and rear end because that extra power and torque will tear apart a stock 60e and G80 rear in no time....

there is ALOT of work that goes into a proper twin turbo setup, I'm working on piecing one together, there is a link to my thread about it in my sig if you want to read about it, but it likely won't be finished for a while...

 

[Aloicious]

Not to mention you have to fuel this beast, and you'd need a stout bottom end and probably some aluminum heads to avoid pinging. I bet you'd have 7k just to get started. 760HP is pie in the sky.

fuel - yes absolutely, but depending on what kind of boost levels will be run, changing the bottom end may or may not be needed, aluminum heads are nice, but also not required, again depending on the boost levels and the quality of the tuning. typically under 10psi peak boost on a SBC will be fine with the stock bottom end and iron heads, but when you start looking to go more than that is when you'll want to look at forged stuff and aluminum heads, etc...I know several people running 10-15psi on stock bottom ends/stock heads and have been for years. but personally, I'd limit it to 8-10psi on that stuff. which is what I'll be running on my setup until I build a forged 383 and increase the boost.

 

[Southern Pride]

You know what they say about things that are too good to be true....

 

[stroker52]

look at these guys.... nice stuff and they know there stuff also..

http://trickperformanceproducts.com/

 

[Super Silvi 1990]

From the size of the headers and the direction the turbo inlet is going i take it its for a different type of 5.7L V8. There is no room to fit those without major reworking of the stock engine bay. Imo a supercharger/blower is much more effective for stock engines. They only work off what you got so the more you beef up the engine the more boost you get. Also it safer to run without larger clamping force from things like arp studs and the added fact that there is no Turbo lag and you get more torque than hp which is whats needed to get our heavy trucks up and running.

 

[Aloicious]

From the size of the headers and the direction the turbo inlet is going i take it its for a different type of 5.7L V8. There is no room to fit those without major reworking of the stock engine bay. Imo a supercharger/blower is much more effective for stock engines. They only work off what you got so the more you beef up the engine the more boost you get. Also it safer to run without larger clamping force from things like arp studs and the added fact that there is no Turbo lag and you get more torque than hp which is whats needed to get our heavy trucks up and running.

uh, no, most of this is not accurate.

that picture shows top mount turbo manifolds which would likely fit on a SBC in a GMT400 engine bay without much problem. I do agree that there may be some alterations needed in the bay, but we have TONS of room in our trucks compared to alot of other setups.

Just to be clear, the amount of boost a supercharger puts out has nothing to do with how the motor is built. sure a better built motor will be able to handle more boost, but that has nothing to do with how much boost a supercharger puts out...I'm not going to go into flow dynamics and how boost in a motor is a measure of resistance, but essentially the amount of boost a supercharger puts out is ONLY dependent on the pulley ratio that it is being driven by. by adjusting pulley sizes on the motor you can make the blower spin faster or slower, and thus adjust the boost it puts out. Turbos are driven by the exhaust spinning the compressor and the boost is basically controlled by the wastegate and the boost can be adjusted by changing the wastegate spring for a turbocharger.

also, a supercharger is no more effective than a turbo, infact superchargers are less efficient than turbos due to the fact that they cause an incredible amount of parasitic drag on the motor since they are belt driven by the motor itself, which turbos arent, so in identical setups putting out identical boost, you'll get more power from a turbo than you will from a supercharger.

while it's true that an improperly designed turbo system (or setups designed for high rpms) may have what some people call 'turbo lag' it is able to be changed by using correctly sized turbo setups. and in correctly designed systems turbo lag can be practically eliminated. the main differences between turbos and (some) superchargers is their method of compression. some superchargers like a roots (BDS) or screw charger (whipple) tend to put out more boost quicker which will result in a torque curve that is biased towards the low end. however other superchargers like a centrifuge blower (Vortech, Procharger) require more RPM to put out the peak boost, so their torque curve is biased towards the high end. Turbo systems are a bit more customizable, and can be setup anywhere from the low end to high end, but most DD setups tend to focus on the middle of the torque curve.

Superchargers are cool, and in alot of instances easier to install and setup, but that doesn't necissarily make them better than a turbo setup, stock or not.