5/6 or 5/7 lowering the best kit?

[Oldblue98]

Thank you for the response and i was going to go and just get the whole bang with belltech but it was going to come up to be around a thousand and piecing it was cheaper but finding shocks were the biggest issue because thats a big factor in ride quality

I started to go with Belltech shocks this last time, but I know how the Bilsteins worked out over the years. I will say Belltech offers a wider variety of shocks for lowered vehicles than Bilstein does, and people that use the Belltech Street Performance shocks have good things to say about them.

 

[Crytone]

Couldnt i weld in the belltech one aswell? that is what i was planning to do because of strength reasonings but ill have to look into the other notches as well

Yes, you can weld the Belltech in also. Just be careful when welding as not to overheat the frame and warp it. The other weld-in kits I mentioned give a bit more suspension travel though, which is likely not an issue anyways at a 6" drop.

Also, don't forget to notch your bed frame support! Right above where the diff/pumpkin is, there's a support under the bed. Your diff will hit this in the middle.

 

[brianmcb]

Went with djm spindles and flip on mine. Cut the stock coils, belltech shocks up front and oem Monroe junk out back with extenders. No complaints. Rides great

95 rcsb, L33 5.3, hot cam, hp tuners, 4/6 drop

 

[sewlow]

Also, don't forget to notch your bed frame support! Right above where the diff/pumpkin is, there's a support under the bed. Your diff will hit this in the middle.

Like so...

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I also flipped around the brake line junction on the top of the pumpkin so that the line doesn't have to snake forward. To prevent it getting pinched.
That brake line bracket had to be modded some, too.

I'd also recommend this...

https://www.carid.com/belltech/upper-shock-mount-shock-extension-kit-mpn-6658.html

Gets the shocks back to the proper angles they were designed to work at. Use along with the lower extenders.

 

[Crytone]

I'd also recommend this...

https://www.carid.com/belltech/upper-shock-mount-shock-extension-kit-mpn-6658.html

Gets the shocks back to the proper angles they were designed to work at. Use along with the lower extenders.

Very curious about learning more about the Belltech upper extenders. So you need to run both the top and bottom extenders? I was always under the impression it was one or the other.

With running both, do you still run a drop shock? It appears as if a stock shock would then be best with running both.

 

[sewlow]

Run the proper length drop shocks for the amount of drop.
The upper relocaction mounts do not affect the length of the shock all that much. They're job is to bring the shocks back to the proper angles they were designed to work at.
The lower extensions allow the use of a 4" shorter than stock shock on a 6" drop.
The part numbers for the shocks are both the same for either a 4" or 6" drop. The lower extensions add length (2") & somewhat correct the shock's angle when lowering.
The uppers mount relocators do more for correcting the angles. When used together, the shocks are nearly returned to the factory angles.
Shocks do not have to be run so that they are operating exactly in the center of the stroke. Things will be fine long as they are not topping out when a lowered vehicle's suspension compresses.

 

[sewlow]

One other thing...I am NOT a fan of aftermarket front lowering springs. I've had them. Didn't like them.
They are way too soft. They mimic the factory ride characteristics. Not something that you want under a vehicle with a shortened suspension travel.
Cutting the factory springs increases the spring rate.
Somewhat stiffer but not so much as to detrimenatally affect the ride. I've found that with the cut springs, the vehicle feels more planted in the twisties, with less of an oingo-boingo PoGo stick-like ride.
1 coil removed= 2" in drop. I would not recommend cutting more than 1 coil.

 

[sled]

So I went with djm 3” springs because I got them second hand along with 2” shackles for $75. I also went with the Avs notch not because of the clearance for travel but the reinforcement above the frame to save some towing capacity. Kit looks good. I’m thinking about swapping out the 1x1 bar and putting in a 2x1 to cover the width a little better, maybe even a little more length depending on how much room I have since it’s an under bed notch.

My question is why would everyone go with a belltech flip kit over the djm? What’s the difference? I’m doing the djm 2” spindle because the lockout matters to me.

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[RoJo2]

The belltech flip kit has pinion angle factored into the brackets so that for most, shims are not needed on a RCSB. Not sure about the DJM kit.
As for the notch kit Sled posted above, if you plan on towing or hauling anything and do not plan to run helper bags, I’d get that weld-in bigger notch kit vs the belltech bolt-in. It forces you to cut up into the outside edges of the same bed frame supports you notch for the pumpkin, but it gives you more travel too. This is especially helpful if you’re thinking about a 7” drop as my belltech 6” flip and notch has my rear axle sitting about 2” away from the bump stops and about 400lbs in the bed eats that gap up. No room at all for me to go 7”.
Last, with regards to what sewlow said about the springs, I have the belltech 2-3” springs in the front of my 98 (with belltech spindles) and I just cut the springs in the front of my 94. I do not notice a difference in ride quality between the 2 but I did notice 2 things: #1 the 2-3” springs from belltech are softer than I’d like causing my tires to rub the underside of the inner fender when hitting grade changes at speed that cause the suspension to travel under load. I have 4” total in the front so unless you plan on running a much shorter tire than the pic you posted, you’ll have the same issue with a 4” and especially a 5” front drop. #2 I cut about 3/4 of one coil and I ended up getting 2.5” of drop on my 94. If you’re thinking about doing just 2”, I’d figure 1 coil is 3” and start from there. You can always cut more but you can’t add it back. Use a spring compression to help get the cut spring back in the seat. Believe me, it’s a ***** without it. Also- for the price, you can’t beat a cut coil.
Last, regarding the spindles, I have the belltech- great quality and everything but eventually, I plan to get the DJM. This is because to me, the 2WD truck already has a narrower rear end than the 4x4 trucks do and it already looks like the front tires sit out wider than the rear with the same offset wheels. I’d rather my front tires set into the frame another 1/2” and help counter that goofy bulldogish look. Also, I’d rather have a little more forgiveness when running wider, taller wheels and tires that weren’t specifically designed for this truck.

Hope some of that helps!

 

[someotherguy]

The belltech flip kit has pinion angle factored into the brackets so that for most, shims are not needed on a RCSB. Not sure about the DJM kit.

...

Last, regarding the spindles, I have the belltech- great quality and everything but eventually, I plan to get the DJM. This is because to me, the 2WD truck already has a narrower rear end than the 4x4 trucks do and it already looks like the front tires sit out wider than the rear with the same offset wheels.

On the first part, the DJM has an "adjustable" pinion angle meaning you're depending on some really hokey hardware keeping your pinion angle in check once you set it. From the couple instances I've seen that means you have really uneven thread engagement on the bolts that doesn't inspire confidence, and then the thing moves on you when you thought you had it locked down.

On the front track being slightly wider than the rear track, that's actually the OEM design and it helps with handling. It just becomes more apparent when you lower the truck and of course if the spindles push it out a little bit more then you're gonna see it. If it bugs you that much just throw some 8.5" wheels up front and 10" out back.

Richard