4X4 ?'s

dwragon

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OK, I gave up on attempting to search the site because of so many ads were clogging the speed of my throttled straight talk phone:rolleyes: (and I had to go on my laptop to type and paste this:mad:), so here goes.

1, On a 1995 single wheel conversion to dually, will the steering knuckle interchange between single wheel and dually with a bearing hub replacement?
2, Is it safe to drive the truck with the front 4X4 axle removed while it is being rebuilt?
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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#1: Shouldn't need to replace the knuckles or the bearing assy's. Rockauto shows the same wheel bearing part number for SRW & DRW. Just bolt on the extension spacers, and DRW wheels

#2: Yes, remove the CV shafts as well, and make sure to put large diameter bolts/nuts/washers into the wheel bearings, where the shafts were, and torque to spec. The bearings can NOT be driven on without being held together
 
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454cid

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#2: Yes, remove the CV shafts as well, and make sure to put large diameter bolts/nuts/washers into the wheel bearings, where the shafts were, and torque to spec. The bearings can NOT be driven on without being held together

This makes no sense. The nut screws into the end of the CV shaft.
EDIT: Now I undrstand what you're saying....that sounds beyond janky and I still wouldn't trust it.


OP, do NOT drive the truck with the axle out. You will destroy the bearings in the hubs with a very short drive.
 

RichLo

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I agree with 454.

It took me a couple reads to understand that also...

You could disassemble a CV shaft and put the hub back in the bearing to keep the support. But a bolt seems dangerous, a few thou thinner than the bearing could cause your wheel to fall off.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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I've done it before. Sent my 3.73 front diff out for 4.56's. I put 1" diameter grade 8, 8" long bolts in the cavity where the CV shafts ride. With 3/16" thick washers on both sides, I torqued the stover nut to 177 lb/ft. Drove that way 2 weeks and 800 miles, till I had a weekend ro reinstall the diff.
Then I took the beast to get the rear diff geared.

I would NEVER recommend disassembling the CV shaft unless you're disposing of them, and replacing both when you reinstall the front diff. The potential for water, dirt, to get in the internals, or slinging grease out when your driving is going to destroy the outer assembly.

But hey, to each his own.
 
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Schurkey

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Thousands of years ago, it was standard operating procedure to disassemble CV shafts, to clean and inspect the guts, and then cram a new boot or two onto the shaft. No one does this any more, because "rebuilt" shafts became cheaper than a pair of boots and the labor needed.

Side Story: A guy from my hometown made money in the 1980s by having ball bearings made a few thousandths larger than the OEM balls in the CV shafts of popular vehicles. Worn CV shafts could be "rebuilt" using these slightly-oversize balls to take up the clearance caused by zillions of miles of wear. You'd buy the boot and clamps, and his "ball kit" for the vehicle, and have at it.

I have been told that the hubs on my 4WD Trailblazer are exactly the same as the hubs on 2WD Trailblazers. The 4WD versions get a CV shaft (outer joint, anyway) run through them, with the big nut on the end that gets torqued to a billion foot pounds. And you'd think that holds the bearings together. But the 2WD version uses the same hub and bearings, but with no CV shaft, no big nut, no torque.
Go figure.
 

Supercharged111

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Thousands of years ago, it was standard operating procedure to disassemble CV shafts, to clean and inspect the guts, and then cram a new boot or two onto the shaft. No one does this any more, because "rebuilt" shafts became cheaper than a pair of boots and the labor needed.

Side Story: A guy from my hometown made money in the 1980s by having ball bearings made a few thousandths larger than the OEM balls in the CV shafts of popular vehicles. Worn CV shafts could be "rebuilt" using these slightly-oversize balls to take up the clearance caused by zillions of miles of wear. You'd buy the boot and clamps, and his "ball kit" for the vehicle, and have at it.

I have been told that the hubs on my 4WD Trailblazer are exactly the same as the hubs on 2WD Trailblazers. The 4WD versions get a CV shaft (outer joint, anyway) run through them, with the big nut on the end that gets torqued to a billion foot pounds. And you'd think that holds the bearings together. But the 2WD version uses the same hub and bearings, but with no CV shaft, no big nut, no torque.
Go figure.

The upgraded C6 hubs are the same way, you buy rear hubs for all 4 corners.
 

boy&hisdogs

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What i've heard is that you are supposed to take the CV apart and drive with just the outer end still installed, to hold everything together. That way you can drive without your diff being installed/connected (because you blew that aluminum POS on the trail :anitoof:).

Never done it, so I can't say for sure, but that's what I've heard...
 

Supercharged111

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What i've heard is that you are supposed to take the CV apart and drive with just the outer end still installed, to hold everything together. That way you can drive without your diff being installed/connected (because you blew that aluminum POS on the trail :anitoof:).

Never done it, so I can't say for sure, but that's what I've heard...

You're right. On some applications that isn't necessary, but I wouldn't take the chance.
 
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