4L60e running at 200-210F at operating temp.

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L31MaxExpress

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On the thread df2x4 posted, someone was commenting that B&M didn’t recommend installation in that orientation, as they are both produced by long I assumed they would be similar, as is the factory, but mounted in the downward location. Seems like that’s not the case.
It must work ok that way across the board. Mine cools and heats up the whole cooler. GM still builds the vans with the coolers in the same orientation.
 

Pinger

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And just to confuse further - I can't be sure that the needle on my temp gauge is mounted correctly. All the needles were removed so that the cluster could be fitted with a new adhesive face (to convert the speedo from km/h to mph). Pretty sure the voltmeter needle is under-reading and possibly the temp is over reading. I'd ask where it should sit with a cold enginebut that will vary depending on ambient temp (typically 60-70F here currently).

Just checked this. With 19C (66F) showing on the mirror, the coolant gauge (cold engine) is sitting about half way into the first quarter segment which is about 130F. Shouldn't it at least be at the lowest (100F) position?
 

someotherguy

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And just to confuse further - I can't be sure that the needle on my temp gauge is mounted correctly. All the needles were removed so that the cluster could be fitted with a new adhesive face (to convert the speedo from km/h to mph). Pretty sure the voltmeter needle is under-reading and possibly the temp is over reading.
You can't be sure? Are you sure? :D

Voltmeter at the battery terminals while running will tell you your operating voltage.

IR temp gun scanned around the thermostat area when fully warmed up will show your coolant temperature.

Re-position needles to read correctly based on measured results. Super easy to do with the lens popped off the cluster but the cluster installed so you can operate it.

Of course same goes for oil pressure (mechanical gauge), speedometer (compare to GPS), and tachmometer (attach external diagnostic tach to ignition)...about the trickiest one to do is the fuel gauge since we don't literally know the level inside the tank, can only read resistance from the sender and hope it's right (which we know it often isn't.) When I had to reposition needles on a cluster, I did the fuel gauge by filling the tank full, setting the needle to "full", drove until it reached the halfway mark then filled up again noting how many gallons it took to fill, compared against tank capacity. It was correct.

Richard
 

Pinger

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You can't be sure? Are you sure? :D

Voltmeter at the battery terminals while running will tell you your operating voltage.

IR temp gun scanned around the thermostat area when fully warmed up will show your coolant temperature.

Re-position needles to read correctly based on measured results. Super easy to do with the lens popped off the cluster but the cluster installed so you can operate it.

Of course same goes for oil pressure (mechanical gauge), speedometer (compare to GPS), and tachmometer (attach external diagnostic tach to ignition)...about the trickiest one to do is the fuel gauge since we don't literally know the level inside the tank, can only read resistance from the sender and hope it's right (which we know it often isn't.) When I had to reposition needles on a cluster, I did the fuel gauge by filling the tank full, setting the needle to "full", drove until it reached the halfway mark then filled up again noting how many gallons it took to fill, compared against tank capacity. It was correct.

Richard

You've just reminded me that my tachometer over -reads. My LPG software's tach' shows it to be so and the rpm that the fuel (LPG) cut-off activates/dectivates confirms it. It takes a few seconds after start-up to come of its stop - normal?
I'll check the voltmeter against a ciggie lighter plug in one I have. Speedo seems OK - against road-side displays but only checked at 30 and 40mph. Oil pressure gauge is OK I think - sitting showing 20psi engine not running but pretty sure it goes to zero as soon as the engine is cranked. Don't have an IR thermometer to check coolant temp - the gauge I'm most concerned about! Fuel gauge that matters to me is the LPG one - a series of LEDs.
I never got too fussed about the gauges as I got the feeling from this forum that they were more guidance than accuracy.
 

someotherguy

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$100 or so will get you a good quality IR thermometer that you can have faith in its readings. Not sure I'd spend less. You can easily spend a lot more but not needed for typical DIY'er type jobs. Once you own one you'll discover it is useful for a lot of things. For automotive work, it's good for determining coolant temp, trans temp, brake or hub bearing problems (look for inconsistent temp comparison side to side), troubleshooting a dead cylinder is easy to spot which one by comparing temps across the exhaust manifold/header, spot catalytic converter issues (temp differential before/after), etc. etc.

Then you find yourself wearing the battery out letting the cat or dog chase the laser pointer around... or measuring random items out of the fridge (is the beer I just bought cold enough yet?) :D

One with a "max" function is especially helpful in automotive work. Example: as you're scanning around the thermostat housing on the intake manifold, whatever the highest temperature read is the one you're looking for - a "max" function will show that number to the side of the current reading as long as you hold the trigger down, so you don't miss your actual coolant temp as you point around reading potentially cooler areas.

Richard
 
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thegawd

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I couldnt agree more on the infrared thermometer. theres one sitting right beside me.

so where would you point this at the tranny to get a good measurement? cuz I sure would like to know what the temp is during normal driving and then after it's been out to work.

I have been thinking about doing just that for the last couple days but I am just not sure where a good spot would be to point it. the pan? idk I would think it would be pretty cool.... tranny coolant line out to cooler? which one is it? top one right?
 

454cid

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I've got a super cheapy ir gun that I initially bought for brakes, I think. I dont know how accurate it is, but for my purposes it's fine as long as its consistent.

Yes, I measured everything around the house the first few days I had it.
 

alpinecrick

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The reason most vortec heads crack is the way the seats are hardened and how thin it is around them. Take apart a few engines that haven't been hot but lots of miles and tell me how many are cracked. Better yet go back a few yr models and find a decent pair of 882s 0r 993 heads.
Every other Vortec that has obviously been overheated. the owners claim it hasn't been overheated......

Besides, how many people here are the original owners of a GMT400/1st Gen Vortec and know it's previous history?
 

alpinecrick

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On the thread df2x4 posted, someone was commenting that B&M didn’t recommend installation in that orientation, as they are both produced by long I assumed they would be similar, as is the factory, but mounted in the downward location. Seems like that’s not the case.
Yeah, that's strange. For the same cooler I would trust the factory orientation.
 

someotherguy

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I couldnt agree more on the infrared thermometer. theres one sitting right beside me.

so where would you point this at the tranny to get a good measurement? cuz I sure would like to know what the temp is during normal driving and then after it's been out to work.

I have been thinking about doing just that for the last couple days but I am just not sure where a good spot would be to point it. the pan? idk I would think it would be pretty cool.... tranny coolant line out to cooler? which one is it? top one right?
That's where the "max" function shines. Aim the thermometer all around the trans - front of the case, converter, pan, etc. and look for your highest reading. I've done this on a few transmissions, but particularly on the 4L60E in my old '94 2500LD and the 4L80E in my '96 3500 wrecker (the white dually, not the HD which was an NV4500) after installing an AutoMeter trans temp gauge. Confirmed the gauge reading within literally just a few degrees. Pan/converter area in general you'll get a pretty accurate reading, and that matched with the gauge reading, temperature sensor screwed into the pressure test port on the side of the trans. Regardless of what anyone wants to say, it's a perfectly fine place to install it. :)

Richard
 
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