4L60e running at 200-210F at operating temp.

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badco

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I didn't read whole post but I can say that all my 4l60e transmissions have stand alone coolers. I dont like radiator ones at all. My trans in my trailblazer is at 152 right now and been running and driving for 30min in 90° outside temp here in eastern Oklahoma. Transmission has 70k on it since built.
 

badco

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My two speed is hardest to cool and if it get 200 I wont stage up. I run hydraulic oil in it and had same in a 4l60 I pulled with. Works way better but has to be used from time its built.
 

alpinecrick

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As far as I know I am running the standard (195F) thermostat.
Thermostat opens when coolant in the block reaches 195F but coolant goes on to reach 210F (if gauge is correct) and stabilises at that. Isn't that how it works?

My understanding of how a thermostat functions is that it is there to prevent flow to the radiator below its pre-set temp and after that it opens and would only close if the coolant in the block fell below its pre-set temp. It doesn't regulate running temp.

If mine is running hotter than it should then that implies too high a temp rated thermostat, too much heat entering the coolant, or a lack of cooling capacity. Everything in the cooling system AFAIK is working as it should - including the rad being relieved of having the air-con rad in front of it.

One thing that I've noticed lately (since changing (leaking) inlet manifold gaskets though possibly it did happen prior) is that when parked after a run the gauge goes up to 235F and is showing that when I go back to it days later and it's cold. Presumably just the residual block/heads heat bleeding into the non-circulating coolant?

Is 210F too hot? I seem to recall someone (Schurkey?) saying these Vortecs run 'nuclear' hot, get up to heat quickly and retain it all day.

Pinger,

According to my Bluetooth scanner all four of my Vortecs run at 195 degrees going down the road. Indeed, once fully warmed up, the only thing that will budge them above 195 is a sustained uphill climb with the TQ unlocked or sitting in traffic with the AC on. Running at 210 in normal driving conditions seems quite warm to me--especially in the cool climes of Scotland.
 

alpinecrick

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ya and the best I can find in Canada is spectra. $280 with the same specs. I thought the first one was too thin as I've been pricing these for years... and I didnt think the specs looked right.

and that's why I keep a very close eye on the rad and have it tested every so often. I want to delete the oil cooler too. hahahah

Al

I didn't read whole post but I can say that all my 4l60e transmissions have stand alone coolers. I dont like radiator ones at all. My trans in my trailblazer is at 152 right now and been running and driving for 30min in 90° outside temp here in eastern Oklahoma. Transmission has 70k on it since built.

GN can't win for losing.

Those foolish GM engineers.........
 

badco

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As far as I know I am running the standard (195F) thermostat.
Thermostat opens when coolant in the block reaches 195F but coolant goes on to reach 210F (if gauge is correct) and stabilises at that. Isn't that how it works?

My understanding of how a thermostat functions is that it is there to prevent flow to the radiator below its pre-set temp and after that it opens and would only close if the coolant in the block fell below its pre-set temp. It doesn't regulate running temp.

If mine is running hotter than it should then that implies too high a temp rated thermostat, too much heat entering the coolant, or a lack of cooling capacity. Everything in the cooling system AFAIK is working as it should - including the rad being relieved of having the air-con rad in front of it.

One thing that I've noticed lately (since changing (leaking) inlet manifold gaskets though possibly it did happen prior) is that when parked after a run the gauge goes up to 235F and is showing that when I go back to it days later and it's cold. Presumably just the residual block/heads heat bleeding into the non-circulating coolant?

Is 210F too hot? I seem to recall someone (Schurkey?) saying these Vortecs run 'nuclear' hot, get up to heat quickly and retain it all day.
Vortec, non vortec, really no different on internal cooling ports. All SBC are the same block cooling ports aside from one extra port on water pump that doesn't do anything that I have seen. I have plugged those off since I was 16 in every one. The 400s have steam holes that I plug in the block and none of them get hot. I run 180 thermostat in all mine. 180 and engine will run about 190. I dont run coolers in radiator if I dont have too. I run aluminum 2 rows 1" wide each row. Northern and griffen both have them. Match the height and core width and only difference is filler neck isnt straight up like 88-98
 

badco

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GN can't win for losing.

Those foolish GM engineers.........
Well gm engineers made heads that are prone to crack, the 3-4 in a 4l60e was designed with bad fluid flow and cooling issues that a couple drilled holes fix and it took racers to figure that out not overpaid dummies. You can keep on the factory is best bandwagon and I'll keep on using my non gm parts in trans and engines I mean sunnex parts are doing great in my trans but that's jus me
 

alpinecrick

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ya and the best I can find in Canada is spectra. $280 with the same specs. I thought the first one was too thin as I've been pricing these for years... and I didnt think the specs looked right.

and that's why I keep a very close eye on the rad and have it tested every so often. I want to delete the oil cooler too. hahahah

Al

OEM style radiator. Shipping to southern Ontario can't be more than $50-$60 dollars......
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1373822&cc=1051120&pt=2172&jsn=313&jsn=313
 

zetros

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Pinger,

According to my Bluetooth scanner all four of my Vortecs run at 195 degrees going down the road. Indeed, once fully warmed up, the only thing that will budge them above 195 is a sustained uphill climb with the TQ unlocked or sitting in traffic with the AC on. Running at 210 in normal driving conditions seems quite warm to me--especially in the cool climes of Scotland.
Wait is the coolant temp gauge supposed to be below 210???

I was under the impression that my motor just ran cool for some reason. I think it runs around to what the stock thermostat is, in that case. Am used to my Mercury's gauge being in the middle when at normal temperature.

Man, I am really not familiar with these trucks lol

That being said, it does sometimes randomly go up to 210 then back down to normal. Might get a new thermostat installed when I flush the Dexcool out.
 
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