4L60e running at 200-210F at operating temp.

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thegawd

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without going out and measuring I think this is the one I need from RA. genuine GM with the cheapest shipping....
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R422b

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without going out and measuring I think this is the one I need from RA. genuine GM with the cheapest shipping....
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Wow Canadian prices are scary! I replaced mine but I think I pay less than $200 for genuine GM parts. I also replace all my cooler lines with brand new from the dealership because RockAuto wanted something like $300 shipping.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111
 

L31MaxExpress

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without going out and measuring I think this is the one I need from RA. genuine GM with the cheapest shipping....
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That one is about 1" too thin on the core. All 3 of the 98 and 99 Tahoes that my brother and I have had as well as the 99 Suburban my brother had and the 99 Suburban we parted out had a 2" core. I just threw 2 of them out for scrap at the shop. They both came out of a vehicle that had either a failed engine or trans and I am not risking flushing a cooler.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Bought a KKS radiator for the van. Buddy has one in his 6.0L swapped 97 C1500. Runs 180°F on the hottest of days with the a/c blasting. Has a shroud and 16" Flexalite Syclone fans.

I am hoping my 383 does not throw overheating tantrums with a 34x19x2-5/16 core and dual 16" 3,000 cfm fans.
 
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thegawd

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ya and the best I can find in Canada is spectra. $280 with the same specs. I thought the first one was too thin as I've been pricing these for years... and I didnt think the specs looked right.

and that's why I keep a very close eye on the rad and have it tested every so often. I want to delete the oil cooler too. hahahah

Al
 

Pinger

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Vortecs came with 195 degree thermostat, unless the truck was destined for very cold climates. I don’t think the northern hinterlands of the British Isles qualify as that kind’ve cold.
Any good reason you’re running that warm of a thermostat?

As far as I know I am running the standard (195F) thermostat.
Thermostat opens when coolant in the block reaches 195F but coolant goes on to reach 210F (if gauge is correct) and stabilises at that. Isn't that how it works?

My understanding of how a thermostat functions is that it is there to prevent flow to the radiator below its pre-set temp and after that it opens and would only close if the coolant in the block fell below its pre-set temp. It doesn't regulate running temp.

If mine is running hotter than it should then that implies too high a temp rated thermostat, too much heat entering the coolant, or a lack of cooling capacity. Everything in the cooling system AFAIK is working as it should - including the rad being relieved of having the air-con rad in front of it.

One thing that I've noticed lately (since changing (leaking) inlet manifold gaskets though possibly it did happen prior) is that when parked after a run the gauge goes up to 235F and is showing that when I go back to it days later and it's cold. Presumably just the residual block/heads heat bleeding into the non-circulating coolant?

Is 210F too hot? I seem to recall someone (Schurkey?) saying these Vortecs run 'nuclear' hot, get up to heat quickly and retain it all day.
 

Reega

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I just linked this in the thread right below this one but give this thread a look. Substitute the TruCool M7B for the B&M cooler mentioned in there though, they're the exact same parts made by Long Mfg. but the TruCool is much cheaper than the B&M. Works great in the factory location with the factory brackets after you trim them a little.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/

What seemed to be the consensus with mounting the cooler fittings down, in opposition to the install instructions?
 

df2x4

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What seemed to be the consensus with mounting the cooler fittings down, in opposition to the install instructions?

I've been running mine with the fittings facing down (just like the factory ones were) for a couple years now with no issues.
 
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