4L60e running at 200-210F at operating temp.

[R422b]

Couldn't you just wire it in with a toggle switch or something, so it could be turned on when needed? Interested in maybe doing this on mine.

Or just a simple thermostat and a toggle switch as backup in case the cheap thermostat goes out.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[alpinecrick]

Couldn't you just wire it in with a toggle switch or something, so it could be turned on when needed? Interested in maybe doing this on mine.

I like the option of shutting it off when not needed, but would prefer the thermostat to know when the coolant temp (or the refrigerant temp) could use some help.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

My only concern with e fans installed into a truck that didn't originally come with them is reliability. I've seen and heard enough I can't afford that when waaaay up in the hills.

A pusher fan in addition to a factory mechanical fan is more appealing. Wish there was a way to install one with a simple thermostat without relying on the ECU.

No reason you couldn't use an aftermarket kit. They have one that is thermally controlled as well as has an input that ties to the a/c clutch. Fan could also be wired to stay active to push some airflow through the radiator and engine compartment to keep it from heat soaking as much on a hot day after shutting it off.

 

[alpinecrick]

In my case I want reliability. My cargo vans are my livelihood, my trucks are to get me places a loooong way from a tow truck.

No reason you couldn't use an aftermarket kit. They have one that is thermally controlled as well as has an input that ties to the a/c clutch. Fan could also be wired to stay active to push some airflow through the radiator and engine compartment to keep it from heat soaking as much on a hot day after shutting it off.

L31,
Do you have any links to what you think are decent kits?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

In my case I want reliability. My cargo vans are my livelihood, my trucks are to get me places a loooong way from a tow truck.


L31,
Do you have any links to what you think are decent kits?

Not cheap but it is PWM, will control multiple fans and has an a/c overide.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16795/10002/-1

 

[Supercharged111]

Not cheap but it is PWM, will control multiple fans and has an a/c overide.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16795/10002/-1

Made in the USA! That is pretty schwanky.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Made in the USA! That is pretty schwanky.

Also rated to 65 amps and because it is PWM helps control the startup amperage spike on the charging system.

Personally I would put the sensor on the cold side of the radiator and adjust it to come in when the mechanical fan needed a boost myself. That way the pusher would go off when not needed or the a/c was off.

Put one of these on a carb 6.0L swap a few years ago and it is still working well.

 

[alpinecrick]

Thanks L31!

 

[Pinger]

The auxiliary cooler/heat exchanger also serves to warm up the trans on cold starts--important to keep line pressures and such down. Hydraulic fluid does get rather "stiff" in cold temps. .

I really don't see how it can. There is no heat in the coolant rad until the coolant thermostat opens and all that time the trans fluid is shedding its heat into the coolant rad - not drawing heat from it.
There seems to have been a shift away from saddle coolers to heat exchangers (often found at the base of the engine oil filter) that see coolant circulated through them immediately on start-up as in effect, connected to the same circuit as the cabin heaters. That type can warm the trans fluid.

GM didn't go to all the time and cost of developing and installing a heat exchanger in each side of the radiator tank because they thought it was superfluous. Their goal is to keep costs down so they can sell vehicles. As Shurkey has previously explained the heat exchangers use the "reverse flow" concept to heat/cool the oils, and that is the most efficient method to heat or cool a fluid. The coolant flows down in the radiator tanks while the oils flow up through the heat exchangers.

.

OP is concerned with 'high' trans fluid temp of 210F - the same temp as the coolant in my Vortec runs at.
Even the saddle cooler's ability to cool the trans fluid is debatable when its cooling medium (engine coolant) is at a higher temperature than desirable trans fluid temps.

 

[454cid]

I really don't see how it can. There is no heat in the coolant rad until the coolant thermostat opens and all that time the trans fluid is shedding its heat into the coolant rad - not drawing heat from it.

Heat always flows towards cold (less heat). Theoretically both fluids are the same temperature before start up. Both start flowing immediately. The coolant is going to start getting warm first, as it's cooling combustion. The ATF is just heat by friction. Since the coolant gets hot faster, the heat will flow into the ATF at the transmission cooler.

There seems to have been a shift away from saddle coolers

Saddle cooler?

OP is concerned with 'high' trans fluid temp of 210F - the same temp as the coolant in my Vortec runs at.
Even the saddle cooler's ability to cool the trans fluid is debatable when its cooling medium (engine coolant) is at a higher temperature than desirable trans fluid temps.

210F is a little high, are you sure it's not just your gauge?

The transmission cooler is on the cool side of the radiator, even if engine temperature (taken at the head) is 210F, that side of the radiator should be quite a bit less.