4L60e running at 200-210F at operating temp.

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zetros

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If you ever tow, might rethink that cooler arrangement. Radiator into the auxiliary gives best cooling capacity.

Also swap the fan clutch and fan blade. 11 bladed plastic fan for a 99 Tahoe fits and cools alot better than the cheesy 5 bladed steel fan.

Always got about 11-12 in town and 18-19 on the road in my 97 when it had the 350.
Is there any reason you'd rather go with the 11 blade fan over an electric fan conversion? I was thinking about just converting it over to an electric fan system, although the vans have a lot less space under the hood for stuff.

Then again, doing the 11 blade fan + severe duty clutch is cheaper and easier.
 

zetros

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4.10 would not be deep enough for me for that van. If you run at 70 currently with a 3.42 it would be turning around 2000 rpm in OD. 3rd would put you about 3K. Unlocked converter in 4th would have you around 2,300 rpm. Jump to 4.56 with lockup actually holding lockup would be 2,600 rpm in 4th and it would jump to 3,600 in 3rd. I had a PWM valve sticking in my 97 for a while and would get a P1870 code if driving in overdrive on the highway for a while. Drove everywhere in 3rd for close to a year. Still netted ~17 mpg on a road trip buzzing the 350 at 3,200 rpm @ 75.
I'll have to add the steeper rear end to the list when I finally get the motivation to get off my butt and go to a pick n pull. I take it I'll need to tune my ECU if I do get 4.56 gears in this thing?
 

alpinecrick

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I was one who had probably 2 transmissions fail because of coolant infiltrating the internal radiators trans cooler. my rad did not leak and had no bad signs. the coolant didn't have any milky residue or anything and the tranny fluid had no signs of coolant in it. but I gernaded a tranny in 20 000 kms and it failed in multiple ways.

the problem was only found by a fluid anylsis while having the tranny rebuilt a stage 3 HD. since it's been 6-7 years and I do occasionally pull heavy loads for a couple hour trips I can say I have not had a single problem. also the company who suggested this since I couldn't afford a new rad said they do do this all the time without problems and it does not affect their warranty. every race truck has this bypassed is also what he said since this shop is a race shop first. so I almost see that oem rad configuration as an eventually timebomb that's guna eventually go off and I dont trust it. i mean it cost me 2 trannys!

so I personally wont ever trust that internal cooler again.

Al

The auxiliary cooler/heat exchanger also serves to warm up the trans on cold starts--important to keep line pressures and such down. Hydraulic fluid does get rather "stiff" in cold temps. If coolant is leaking into the trans the radiator is wore out--period. Time to get a new one. I'd rather have a new radiator than spend a lot of money on a stage 3 trans. Race shops are not somebody I look to for longevity of parts--been there.

GM didn't go to all the time and cost of developing and installing a heat exchanger in each side of the radiator tank because they thought it was superfluous. Their goal is to keep costs down so they can sell vehicles. As Shurkey has previously explained the heat exchangers use the "reverse flow" concept to heat/cool the oils, and that is the most efficient method to heat or cool a fluid. The coolant flows down in the radiator tanks while the oils flow up through the heat exchangers.

Guys buy a used truck that is new to them and often think of it as being "new" when it's not, and there are a lot of the systems on the truck one has to start looking at with a critical eye, especially beginning around the 150k mark (at least with normal maintenance). The heat exchangers in the radiators are not a weak link in these trucks. Naturally it can be damn frustrating when a heat exchanger leaks fluid into the trans/engine oils without it being noticeable and ruins the trans or motor.

Back in the day TH350's and 400's often didn't come with any kind of cooling for the trans--or engine oil cooling either. And those trans heat exchangers in the radiator may be the biggest reason 4L60E's last on average 50k longer in a pickup than the TH350's did. I know, I've owned one 71 K10 (bought in 73 with 22k on it) and three square body K10's with TH350's. I was grenading GM auto trans before most guys were on this planet. Through experience I've learned (most of) the things not to do to these trans, and hopefully most of the things that should be done.

Although I do like the idea of having a fluid analysis done on the tans fluid. Where can a guy have that done at? Does Blackstone, Titan, etc, do trans fluid analysis?

When my 96 K1500 radiator sprung a leak at ~240K I bought the Spectre HD version when Advance had a 25% coupon and it was on sale. It was a drop in fit. Liked it so much I bought one for my 97 (which has 166k on it). Now you're motivating me to go out and install it as preventative maintenance............sheesh.
 

thegawd

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I live in Canada. I know what your saying but I dont have a problem. I mean trans gets hot on it's own. oil gets hot on it's own. heat blows hot in a few minutes. I cant find the problem after 6-7 years. some winters I want to put a bra on the rad to help it stay much warmer but I havent yet.

Al
 

thegawd

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sorry I missed.... the transmission shop I used does their own fluid anylsis, they have all the equipment necessary to analyze all fluids. this shop has been in the business since the beginning, 60 years ago, is family owned and operated. theres a few race tracks nearby and that's what they specialize in but they do everything. they have a few different specialized shops side by side in Strathroy Ontario. the trans shop is called Transmission Direct and was recommended to me by a local gm dealer who outsources all their rebuilds to to be done.

they make no indication on their website just how long they have been doing it but all of the buildings they have are plastered with so many pics of all the cars they have worked on over the years and so many of them are black and white with old school cars from way back when they were starting out.

https://www.transmissiondirect.ca/

Al

EDIT.... they absolutely recommended the rad to be replaced but I could not afford it at all. I was already all in. the owner said they can bypass it and still offer the warranty cuz I was kind of freaking out. anyways with the rad cooler lines plugged the rad passed and has continued to pass a pressure test. ya I still can't afford to replace it and the price of rad keeps going up and up and up......
 
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L31MaxExpress

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Sigh........

The man is trying to push a 6,000+ lbs brick with a 4L60E and stock Vortec 350 in Overdrive down the road. Its obvious the load is keeping the converter unlocked. Easiest way to fix that is gears and tuning. I would delete the PWM. Did on my 97 when it still had the 60E.
Is there any reason you'd rather go with the 11 blade fan over an electric fan conversion? I was thinking about just converting it over to an electric fan system, although the vans have a lot less space under the hood for stuff.

Then again, doing the 11 blade fan + severe duty clutch is cheaper and easier.

Simple and cost effective and less prone to problems.

I am currently setting up an E-Fan conversion but adding full PCM control over it with the GM style 3-relay low/high speed relay setup and an a/c pressure transducer in the high side discharge hose. Also have a 34x19x2-5/16" core aluminum radiator with a matching shroud and dual 3,000 cfm 16" Flexalite fans. I have ~$700 into doing it correctly. I tried a 34x17 dual core 454 radiator and Tahoe E-Fans and they did not keep my 350 cool at the time and the fan motors eventually burned up.
 

stutaeng

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I'll have to add the steeper rear end to the list when I finally get the motivation to get off my butt and go to a pick n pull. I take it I'll need to tune my ECU if I do get 4.56 gears in this thing?

4.10s are probably good enough for you if you are running stock tires.

Contrary to common sense, a higher axle ratio doesn't always mean you'll take a hit on MPG. You will gain acceleration capacity during towing and puts your engine closer to the powerband. The higher RPM will also help cooling because the fan is producing more CFM.

But re-gearing does require an ECU reflash...
 

alpinecrick

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The man is trying to push a 6,000+ lbs brick with a 4L60E and stock Vortec 350 in Overdrive down the road. Its obvious the load is keeping the converter unlocked. Easiest way to fix that is gears and tuning. I would delete the PWM. Did on my 97 when it still had the 60E.


Simple and cost effective and less prone to problems.

Owning two G1500's with 3.42's, I can't disagree that a lower gear in the diff would quite likely help. But it does require buying and installing the parts, and as stutaeng noted flashing the ECU.

Both of my G1500's are cargo vans and their everyday payload is maxed out, plus a stack of ladders on top that will act like a sail. I live in Colorado where there's lots of up and down and significant elevation gain. And you're correct, they don't spend a lot of time with the TQ locked. One lost the trans at 154k, the other at 155k. I currently have 110k and 70k respectively on the rebuilts. Neither have the external cooler. With an every day heavily loaded 4L60E, 150k is probably a reasonable expectation of the trans lifespan. Here on the forum and a friend with a Suburban, it seems some folks are well north of 200k with their original 4L60E's. Somebody has to be doing something right.

As I have continued to preach, keeping the fluid bright red may be the most important part of the equation, and I'll find out if that contributes to longer life of the trans.

Did you break the 4L60E's before or after you deleted the PWM?
 
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