4 Hi Headlight Mod

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RichLo

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Not quite. You'd delete the DRLs and have switches for selectable 4-hi and another switch for driving lights, aka spot lights, that can be turned on when the high beams are on.
If you dip the lights the high beams and driving lights are turned off and the low beams come on.

FWIW, the standard 4-hi setup takes three relays unless you want to run diodes. Adding the driving lights just adds one more relay. Running the switch parallel to the high beam signal wiring allows the driving lights to be dipped along with the high beams.

Whats the 3rd relay for in your standard 4-high? If you use factory wiring you can only use 1 relay to activate the lows when the highs come on, if you upgrade to stand-alone wiring to not have full power going through the switch you only need 2 relays. 1 for high, 1 for low with the low bridged to come on when the highs come on.

Thanks for the explanation of your 4-relay setup, I can see where that would be beneficial. Still kind of complicated especially if you loan your truck out to somebody who isnt mechanical. Could get confusing or dangerous if they start flipping switches trying to find the right setting.
 

Onizukachan

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Just wanted to say thanks to OP for the write up, did min3 in about 15 minutes using a left over hella bosch Style relay.
did mine on the drivers side though as I was de installing left over po ppo and pppo wiring, and they already had a 40 amp fused ignition hot coming off the fuse box for god knows what… so I just repurposed it.

Really helped out quite a bit on hi beam to not lose the center pattern from the low beams.
 

Randyzzz

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Ok...got a question. I did the relay power for low and high beams along with the 4 high modification. Everything works great, except now the low beams are basically constantly on at full power because of the DRL trigger. Could this be causing premature burnout of my low beams? I have already burned through a set of Silverstar low beams in under a year- I'm used to them lasting way longer than that.

So- if I accessed my DRL relay in the convenience center, and removed it from the headlamp equation by connecting the PPL wire from the dimmer switch to the TAN wire going to my headlamp relay, I should have "normal" operation for the headlamps. Meaning they are only controlled by the H/L switch. At this point I could then take the stub of the TAN wire from the DRL relay and run a separate wire to separate bulbs to act as my DRL? Maybe even rewire the inner parking lamp bulb for this purpose, emulating the GMT800 DRL scheme?

I like the idea of having DRL's, I just don't want them to impact the life of my headlamps. I am also considering replacing the headlamp bulbs with LED's, if the light output is better. I drive a lot of unlit mountain roads at night.
 

Schurkey

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DDRLs are primarily a propaganda device, a way for manufacturers to claim "safety" while keeping the costs WAY DOWN.

There's no real point to them, and they're annoying as hell for other motorists.
 
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