350 Vortec Headers and exhaust

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clgodwin79

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I tried the search function for this and came up short so I figured I’d make a new post.

I would like to buy some decent stainless full length headers and really have to build my whole exhaust from scratch.

So it’s a Vortec 350 and I just am looking for a direct bolt on, EGR deleted setup. So headers as well as the mid pipe area coming together either into a Y pipe or X pipe. I’m not really too particular on this part. But all of the ones I’ve been able to find online are like $2k without any muffler or tailpipe area. Which seems a little ridiculous to me.

Am I missing something or an easier or cheaper way to get this done?

The whole exhaust doesn’t need to be stainless, but I’d definitely prefer it for at least the headers. And I’m not scared to do a little cutting and welding, but that’s the one area where I’m definitely lacking in both experience and tools. Although I do have a super cheap 90a Harbor Freight welder. So I can do it, but it won’t be pretty. Also, another note, since this truck is so old, I don’t have to worry about emissions. That being said, cats are neither required, nor desired. Sorry if you think I’m going to single handedly destroy the ozone! Lol
 

Dnytro

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I wouldn’t bother with that 90amp welder, that’s my only advice.

Did you check summit? Insisting on stainless is adding to your cost for sure.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Nothing? From my research, I can use the 88-95 TBI exhaust since I’m deleting my EGR.

Are the exhaust bolts in the same location on the non-Vortec heads vs. Vortec? I seem to remember that ONE hole, on one end of the Vortec head, was spaced differently than on the non-Vortec (1995 and earlier) head.

Somebody check me on this.

Perhaps the 1995 and earlier exhaust might be adaptable in some way, if I am correct.

I suppose I could have Google'd this and fact-checked myself before posting, but... I didn't.
 

east302

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Nothing? From my research, I can use the 88-95 TBI exhaust since I’m deleting my EGR.
I want to say “maybe no” on this. Someone here tried it the other way (putting a Vortec Y-pipe on a TBI) and it was off at the header flange though you wouldn’t think that it would be.

@DerekTheGreat was the guy that did that, maybe he could chime in. Here’s his thread, maybe it will help.

If you don’t have the EGR tube on a vortec header, I’d just put a threaded plug into the port.

 

clgodwin79

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I want to say “maybe no” on this. Someone here tried it the other way (putting a Vortec Y-pipe on a TBI) and it was off at the header flange though you wouldn’t think that it would be.

@DerekTheGreat was the guy that did that, maybe he could chime in. Here’s his thread, maybe it will help.

If you don’t have the EGR tube on a vortec header, I’d just put a threaded plug into the port.

Thanks for the info. I don’t get how or why this is such a mystery for these trucks. And I’m honestly surprised that there isn’t some kind of exhaust sticky thread by now. But I guess it’s just not as common as I’d like to think that it is.

Maybe I need to stop being lazy and cheap and just get myself a decent welder and learn how to fabricate and weld my own stuff. It’s definitely on the bucket list to learn and get a decent welder, and how cool would it be to put V band setups with easily removable sections of exhaust for future maintenance? And learn how to weld and get a new tool at the same time. Sounds like a win/win to me. And my cheap and crappy HF 90a welder should be good enough for putting tack welds in from underneath for mock up purposes.

Now I just need @kennythewelder to tell me what type of welder to buy for the job and that would be the best to have around for regular household and car stuff.

But I still need to figure out the basics of if the header bolts and head exhaust lines up the same from TBI to Vortec so I at least know if TBI headers will work for me.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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I've never seen a long tube header that can be installed on an IFS 4x4. it interferes with the front differential and front driveshaft. And any piping on the driver side will interfere with the t-case, and fuel tank.

Only shorties, that connect to the OE front converter pipes, are avaialble. TBI or Vortec...
 

kennythewelder

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Buying a welding machine, all depends on what all you want to do with it. For most automotive fab work, a small wire feed 120 plug in machine will work grate, but if your going to weld anything 1/8 inch thick, or thicker, then you need a 240 volt machine. A 120 volt, just doesn't have enough power to weld anything much thicker than sheet metal. Wire feed, is the easiest to learn how to weld with. There are a ton of videos on YouTube that have grate info on learning how to weld. As for a brand of machine, well they will all weld, and lay a decent weld bead after you learn how to use it, but, the problem with a cheap machine, is getting parts for it, when it brakes, and it will sooner or later. The two best brands are Miller, and Lincoln. Also, any wire feed welding machine, that uses a blend of Argon, and Co will weld a lot better than one that doesn't. We use 75-25 blend at the shop all of the time, unless we are TIG welding. For that, you need 100 percent Argon gas, but TIG is another whole animal. It's not for the novice weekend welder, especially aluminum welding. It is the hardest to master.
 
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