2000 k2500 CV shafts... Replace?

[upper_tanker]

I am replacing my front pads/rotors/calipers/hoses/UCAs/all ball joints in the front. I figured while I'm here, I'd see if RockAuto has Delco CV axles. They don't. This took me down the rabbit hole that I seem to always fall down.

These shafts were not clicking or making noise before I pulled the front end apart. I do use it as a plow truck using an 8.2' V plow. I was reading that OEM shafts, even though used, are probably better (assuming no visual/obvious damage) than whatever aftermarket brands are out there, new.

What would you guys do? I'd really hate to get this back together and then have an issue this winter, but I'd also hate to replace them with junk and have to do them again anyways. I'm already here and they're kind of a PITA to do compared to other vehicles.

Also, is there an obvious way to check the shafts when they're out of the knuckle? The boots are not ripped, the outer shafts are tight when you rotate them, but there is about 1/4-1/2" in-out play between all 3 pieces of the shafts. Also the outer shaft rotates really easily with almost no resistance.

Hoping someone can tell me to shut up and leave them or shut up and just buy xxxxx brand. LOL

 

[454cid]

If you're not having issues with them, re-install the originals. The boot on the driver's side ripped, on my truck, and the new Chinese replacement started leaking in a couple of years. I accidentally caused a leak in the passenger side, later. I haven't fixed it, and while it does sling grease it hasn't been enough of a problem for me to fix it.

Put something over the lower shock mount so that you don't damage the boot while installing or removing the cv-shaft.

They're not super hard to replace... if you use a jack to the move the suspension up and down, you can replace the cv-shaft with the ball joints still connected. If I recall correctly it's easier with the shock, and sway bar link, removed. The links are probably the biggest pain, here in MI, since they tend to rust up.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

If they are not leaking and you are able to manipulate the joints without binding use them. They are easy enough to change if they fail. To replace them all you have to do is pull the wheel/tire assembly, remove the sway bar end link and unbolt the 6 bolts that connect the CV inner flange to the differential axle flange and remove the outter nut. It should only take 30 minutes.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I've been a minimalist for the duration of my 25+year career as a mechanic.

You stated the CV shaft boots are intact, and no noises when last driven.

The way I see your situation is this: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[upper_tanker]

Thank you all for the replies. I didn't even think about removing the 6 bolts and sliding it out from the back. I tend to go the more difficult route, figured I'd have to pop both ball joints out of the knuckle and pull it from the front. I just figured while I was here, instead of touching it twice, I'd replace them if I could find quality shafts for a decent price. Think I'll just leave these in until they give me issues. I appreciate all the input.

 

[Schurkey]

Think I'll just leave these in until they give me issues.

Wisdom.

 

[upper_tanker]

Wisdom.

Seems like I don't have much of it these days! LOL