2000 GMC Sonoma SLS Ext Cab | Gas Saver

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BerHntr

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Wheels definitely see it off, glad to hear your gonna drop it a little as it definitely needs an altitude adjustment. Looking good though
 

dcp1992

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Well, it's been about two and a half years since I updated this thread, and my Yukon thread for that matter. But decided to update this one first, I think I've said it before but YouTube and Instagram is the best place to follow any of my builds.

Anyway, I'm not going to go into complete detail but I'll talk a little about what I did and post a couple pictures and the YouTube video I did if I made one.

First off, in mid Jan. 2018 I had to address the issue of the torque converter not locking up. So I swapped out the valve body in the trans. It wasn't too bad considering it was my first somewhat major transmission repair.

I got a rebuilt AcDelco valve body, new AcDelco internal wiring harness with solenoids, new AcDelco Manual Shift Shaft Position Switch, and new AcDelco screens/filters. Also got nre check balls. I did get the deep 5 quart Dorman transmission pan and used Mobil 1 Dexron-6 and did a flush.
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Old valve body out
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I did a redneck flush by getting some heater hose on the upper trans radiator port, putting 5 quarts in the pan and running the truck in neutral until empty and refilling until I had 5 quarts left and filled it up to max. I flushed 11 quarts through the trans.
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Here's the video, it's not detailed due to the time it took to do and me not feeling too good.
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We also had snow two weeks in a row, I was super surprised due to us normally not getting snow until about March or April. Crazy Memphis weather. The Sonoma took it like a champ. The Falken tires amazed me with how well they took to the snow.
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The next thing I did on the Sonoma at the end of Jan. 2018 was I got some LED tail lights and decided to open them up and paint match the inside.

I took the housings apart and taped off what I didn't want to paint
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Then I got some pant match online with a clear coat.
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Then mounted on the truck.
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Here's the video I did on it.
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The next thing I did was add a switch panel because I didn't want to put random swiches all over the place. Used some aluminum to make the mounts for the relay box.
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Here's the video I did.
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Next, in Feb 2018, I got some RGBW rock light, I have still yet installed all the modules but I cannot recommend the company enough. They are somewhat local to me and they have a 25 year no questions asked warranty including accidental damage. Already had that proven when I damaged one of my Jeep modules, I ripped one of the wires and they sent me a new module. Alos they are super bright, but you will pay for the price. Not cheap but so worth it. I have bought sets for all the vehicles. I used one in each wheel well and two on each side of the frame. Also will have one in the front and one in the back.

I do recommend to use 1/4-20 rivnuts or nutserts to mount them though, I that to mount them on my Jeep and Yukon, much easier than bolts and nuts.
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dcp1992

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Again, I have yet to install all of them yet so I only have one on the frame on a side since I didn't have the angle mounts. I will be welding the mounts to the frame like I did to my Jeep.
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Video I did on the install.
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The next thing I did was install n OPT7 tailgate bar, not going to post anything about it because it failed within 8 months. Only thing that still works is the backup part, everything else is flaky and glitchy.

Then in July 2018 I finally installed the 2" drop, probably the best thing I've done thus far until I install the Xtreme kit (hopefully start tomorrow).

Stock height
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2" drop
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Video I did.
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Then I did some maintenance and swapped the belt and Tensioner. Also got some LED headlights.

After that I decided to go ahead and do exhaust. It wasn't bad and actually pretty quite. I went with a magnaflow dual setup. loved the sound but the pipes never looked right in the back.

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Then in April 2019 I fixed an issue I was having on startup wet morning with the spark plug wires/coils shorting out by changing the coil packs, spark plug wires, and spark plugs.

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After that I got some LEDs for the 3ed brake light. They only sell full assemblies for the single cab trucks but not the Ext cab trucks. But I found a kit that has a smoke lense and some LED boards.

Old melted lense
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LEDs in and new lense.
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Video I did.
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Picture of the tuck all washed and waxed.
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I also installed an OBX maximizer header and that helped quite a bit with power, but it's still an underpowered with about 87 HP. Not too highway or speed friendly. But when I installed the header I got rid of the cat since I broke all the studs off. Now it is way to ricey and sounds like a Honda. I have a resonator to go on it to hopefully fix that. But have yet to install it.
 
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dcp1992

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Next thing I did was in preparation to install the Xtreme kit. I wanted to have fog lights but I wanted then to work like OEM. So I got a new lighting harness for the truck form a Blazer with factory fog light, and BCM from the same Blazer, and then a OEM headlight switch with fog light button. Then swapped everything over.

Lot of people said it was a lot of work and it was in a since but worth it so I could have the OEM fog lights when I get the Xtreme valance on the truck. Also work like OEM too. You do have to relearn the passlock due to swapping the BCM but it's not hard.

Video I did.
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Next, as a hold over, I installed some amber LED fog lights.
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Next, I upgraded to the 21st century with a double din radio. As many know, Metra a couple years ago came out with a kit for the GMT400 (95-99) to get a double din radio. Well, they finally came out with one for my Jeep XJ (97-01) so I did that. Then I saw they came out with a kit for the S-Series tricks (98-02) so I did that. Would have liked another Pioneer radio but I'd just gotten one for my Jeep so I cheaped out a got on Alpine. Not too happy with the performance of the radio, but it allows me to do Android Auto so it'll hold me over until I get a Pioneer.

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Video I did
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Next I had a little mishap with my driver side outside mirror. So I got the 94-97 mirrors and paint matched them as a hold over until I get the Street Scene power conversion mirrors.
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Video I did
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Almost caught up, next thing I did was step one of the Xtreme conversion. Put an s10 front end on the truck. But I wanted to keep it GMC so I got a blank bar style grill and used an 2018 GMC Sierra emblem.
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Video I did on the swap.
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And finally. The most recent thing I did was get another set of wheels. About a year ago I saw a s10 with my Dark Cherry Red Metallic paint and Bronze wheels. It looked amazing and I decided I wanted bronze wheels. Well, I looked over a year before I found the set I have now. All the wheels I was finding had about +30 offset but the 2wd S-Series trucks need about 0 offset and 4" backspacing to fit in the front. So everything I was finding were made for the new Corvettes, Camaros, and BMWs. Until I decided to look on summit racing and find a set. I had to drop down to a 17x7 from a 18x8 like my IROCs but I think it was worth it.

The wheels I went with are Race Star Wheels - 92 Drag Star in Bronze. They have a 4.25 backspacing but they still fit. I decided to get the same Falken tires I had since they did so well in the snow we had and grip good.

Test fit of the wheels.
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Wheel all on the truck with a fresh coat of wax.
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Decided to take a scenic route home this week
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I haven't done a video on them yet, been too cloudy and I'd like to do it on a sunny day. Wheels look better in the sun.

And that's it, all caught up. The next thing will either be the install of a GM roll pan or install of the Xtreme body it.

I've also decided I'm going to turbo the truck. I'd like more power than the 80 something HP and I can do a turbo for pretty cheap and get a decent gain vs a motor swap. I will do a V8 in the future but a turbo is much cheaper and if I stay under 8 PSI I don't need a tune, I can use a FMU but I will probably stick to about 6 PSI. Don't know when that'll happen due to the whole state of the world but hopefully sometime within a years time.

Anyway, until next time, hopefully not 2.5 years.
 
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dcp1992

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It was slow at work today so I went ahead a mocked up the Xtreme flares. Good thing is most of the holes are already pre-drilled in the fenders/bedside, all the front holes are there just had to drill the bottom two holes (front facing and rear facing) for the rear flares. I used #10 stainless screws to mount them using the factory holes.

One thing this did show me is that these wheels with the 4.25" backspacing and being 7" wide... they really tuck under the flares. Looks like I'll be getting a 4wd rear axle which adds 2.25" per side in the rear. I'll get one from a Blazer so I get disc brakes. Also, as much as I dislike them, I'll probably be doing a small spacer to bring the front out. But I'll get 1" longer studs from ARP and then used a solid straight through type spacer. So besides having studs in the spacer it uses the vehicle studs. All hubcentric of course.

Here's the flares test fitted.
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You can see in these pictures how much the wheels get sucked in (metaphorically speaking) with the flares on. Due to the drop spindles in the front, the front is already out 0.5" per side from factory. So it's not as drastic as the rear.
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dcp1992

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Over the weekend I got the rest of the license plate light items so I could install my GM roll pan. Fun fact, the GM roll pan for the S10 takes GM400 license plate light assemblies and pigtails. But my OE rear bumper for the Yukon has been in the backyard for about 3-4 years. Not a big issue, except it was upside down and the license plate lights were filled with water and the pigtails were corroded beyond use. So I just ordered a new set of lights and pigtails.

The GM roll pan PN:15958890
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The factory bumper that's been damaged since I acquired the truck, finally fixing that.
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I don't know if I've said it before, but this truck as had body work before and the more I see the more PISED OFF I get becasue I'd love to know who "fixed" it and give them a piece of my mind and force them to fix it the right way. Well I found more sh!tty body work, when they painted the passenger bedside the lazy SOB "body shop" didn't pull the rear bumper and the lower bed corner is covered in overspray. (I rant in the install video)
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The truck comes with some holes already in the bed that match up with the roll pan. I enlarged the holes and used 1/4-20 nutserts.
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License plate lights installed and all bolted on. Looks so much better, will be paint matched when I get everything else paint matched.
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Here's the video on the install (Has a rant about sh!tty body shops/people who should not be in the body business)
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I also finally fixed my hood rattle earlier this week. There is a TSB for a hood rattle that sounds like its the front end but it's actually the hood moving on the mounts. It definitely sounds like suspension to me. It's TSB: 01-08-63-001B and calles for installing spring washers on the hood hinges to put pressure on the henges to keep them from rattling.
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Here's the part number for the washers, need 2 of them.
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Here's how the washer goes on the hood hinge bolt. Conical portion goes toward the hood on the shoulder of the bolt.
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All on and torqued to 18 ft/lbs. Now it doesn't sound like the front suspension is falling out of it.
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That's me all caught up.

Today I ordered everything to do an electric fan conversion. So phase 1 of the turbo swap is under way (but still a ways off, still researching), plus is should free up the engine some since it's so underpowered. So if that comes in I might install that this weekend, but I also need to finish test fitting the body kit.

Also will be getting HP Tuner either this weekend or next week. It'll be good to familiarize myself with it and get into learning how to tune.

'Til next time.
 

dcp1992

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Been a minute since I updated this but not much has changed. I got my Mishimoto E-Fan installed with the Dakota Digital controller and I love it. Only negative I have is I wish the Dakota Digital controller was water resistant and could be mounted in the engine bay. Would have a smaller install footprint rather than running wires from one side of the engine bay back into the cab. It still turned out neat but having the option to mount the controller on the fan shroud would have been optimum placement.

Also, I know I said I wanted to turbo this thing... It's still on the table for the future but I picked up another GMT400... Anther 1996 Yukon, but this one is 4wd. It's got a spun bearing in the motor so it needs a new one. Also need a lot of help in the interior but for the price I couldn't pass it up. I've always wanted a 4wd truck (full size truck or SUV) since what I use my current 2wd 1996 Yukon for would really benefit from 4wd (tow rig for my Jeeps). That reason is why I was planning to 4wd swap & SAS the 2wd Yukon. (already have axle and transfer case) But now that I now have a 4wd one, plans have now changed. The 2wd Yukon will be taken back down to stock (when the 4wd Yukon is up and running) and maybe add a LT4 hot cam and turn it into a mild street truck. Then the 4wd one when it's up and driving will have a 6" lift (later on SAS) and the wheels, tires, and bumpers from my 2wd Yukon will be swapped over.

I am currently trying to decide on if I should just get a reman 5.7 Vortec or take my chances on a used motor and take someone's word of mouth that the engine runs or see if I can see it run before I buy it. Or give a junkyard motor a shot in the dark. If I end up with a reman engine (or one of the new 350 service engines) the reman engine will go in the 2wd Yukon and the 2wd motor will go in the 4wd yukon.

Will have a link to the new Yukon build plage when I make one.

Anyway, that's what's been going on and the change of turbo plans for the time being.

Here's some of the pictures on the E-Fan install, haven't finished editing the video yet.

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IMG_20200627_161140 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr
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IMG_20200601_215252 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Here's the fan shroud bolted to the radiator. It fits pretty good, has a small gap on the one side but I knew about that. It does not affect the cooling at all, this is plenty enough for this motor. Should even be enough if/when I actually boost the motor.
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IMG_20200627_192850 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Here's a shot of the controller. It's up on a dash support bar on the right side of the driver footwell above the hush panel. It actually fits perfectly in the location.
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IMG_20200616_163550 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr
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IMG_20200616_163556 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Here's some shots of radiator back installed with the shroud and everything all wired in. So much for activities now. It's amazing just how much room the mechanical fan and shroud took up.
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IMG_20200627_215208 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr
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IMG_20200627_215824 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr
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IMG_20200627_193955 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

And to leave off with a scenic shot.
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IMG_20200618_100257_609 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr
 
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