2000 GMC K2500 resto/cummins

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Scubasteve51

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That Cummins tan is sharp. I just did my valve covers and intake in red, but that has a clean, industrial look to it.

I’m sure you’ll drop the headliner, but be sure to check/reseal the roof ribbing....they rust under the rail and pinhole leaks eventually start. I actually had to cut out a few spots and patch in new steel.
 
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That Cummins tan is sharp. I just did my valve covers and intake in red, but that has a clean, industrial look to it.

I’m sure you’ll drop the headliner, but be sure to check/reseal the roof ribbing....they rust under the rail and pinhole leaks eventually start. I actually had to cut out a few spots and patch in new steel.

I dig it as well. Makes seeing/tracking oil leaks much easier. Seems to be an even split between those who like and hate cummins beige...
Headliner is the only part of the interior that hasn't come out/been replaced yet. I already have a few holes to fill from the roof mounted lights and rack. Ill be sure to check in the ribs as well, thanks man.
 
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Finally got the wiring started. Pulled everything that was no longer necessary from the pcm. I'm guessing there is some egg beater like device on the GM wiring harness assembly line that twists the wires into a giant braided knot before they get over taped as tightly as possible.
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Supercharged111

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Wiring started? As in removing way more than you'll be putting back? At this rate the truck should be back together quick enough that this thread will remain interesting.
 
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Wiring started? As in removing way more than you'll be putting back? At this rate the truck should be back together quick enough that this thread will remain interesting.
Oh yeah.ripped most of it out.all those unnecessary gas sensors, gone! Hoping to have the motor in this weekend weather permitting...

I do have the unfortunate pleasure of trying to remove a broken tranny mount bolt as well. The head sheared off with surprisingly little torque applied and left about 2 threads worth of bolt sticking out of the trans case. Been soaking it in penetrating oil for the last week hoping i can get a bolt head tacked on to it so it will spin out.
 

Supercharged111

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I've had much better luck welding nuts to broken bolts and spinning them out than I ever have with the (not)easy outs. They're false advertising.
 
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I've had much better luck welding nuts to broken bolts and spinning them out than I ever have with the (not)easy outs. They're false advertising.
I concur. Not very easy, and they rarely get it out. trans is still under the truck, so it is going to be difficult to get the mig torch into the correct position for a proper weld. Fingers crossed
 

Mr.White98

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I'm in the process of doing my cummins swap homework (so I'm following this thread closely) and found a couple guidelines for serpentine setups. One, you should try to have at least 1/3 of the accessory pulley wrapped by the belt. This wouldn't apply to idlers or tensioners since they're not driving anything. And I don't know if you can have too much wrap on a pulley. Second, the tensioner should be put at close to the "push" side of the crank pulley as possible since this is where you'd have the most slack in the belt. So with your current setup, I'd be worried about not having enough pull on the water pump and running into overheating issues. Not sure if you could relocate the tensioner between the alternator pulley and the crank pulley, then run the belt (going counter-clockwise) from the crank pulley, over the fan pulley, under the water pump pulley, then around the A/C compressor, idler pulley, alternator pulley, and finally along the tensioner. Just a thought.

On a separate note, how will you be controlling the electric fans? I believe GM had PCM's turning them on low speed at 202 F and high speed at 220 F, which is higher than the cummins should be running.
 
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Aloha mr white. I had/have those concerns with the tensioner placement as well. I did a good amount of research and found a few examples of 6bt marine setups that run a high mount tensioner. Heres what I was using as a reference
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As for the fans, I got a thermostatic switch on the eBay 210 on/195 off and a 195* thermostat. I'm not sure at the moment how I'm going to activate the fans with the ac. I have been thinking about using an extra 0411 pcm I have as that can control the fans for coolant temp (can adjust the on/off temps and speed), factory ac functions, as well as the fuel gauge. the current/stock pcm will really only be running the fuel gauge.
 

BlastingBat998

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i was browsing around trying to find a 6.5 diesel suburban about 2 months ago and i saw THIS EXACT SUBURBAN, good to see someone giving it a new life, nice work on cleaning/painting the engine bay.
 
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