2000 Escalade - Fitting 35s

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Jroems

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Hello all, looking for advice, knowledge and ideas.

Have 2000 Escalade project truck with 20” aftermarket wheels, tires are shot and purchased some 2500 take offs, Goodyear trail runners at 275/65/20 for good deal. Completely rebuilding front end then rear end (steering suspension bearings brakes axels). So tires are about 35” and I need to make them fit. Currently not interested in cutting frame for lift kit and doubtful about cranking cause of ride quality. Have few questions below and sure more to follow.

What is gained by inverting ball joints?

Thinking 1” crank will allow wheels to fit due to their narrowness compared to others. Stock keys thoughts/issues?

What do aftermarket tb keys offer?

Want bilstein 5100s cause may lift in future. At rest 14.5” drooped 18”. Does this sound right? And which 5100 is needed.

Anyway to modify upper arm stop to allow for cranking and not lose ride quality?
 

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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You will not fit 35's without major surgery because the Denali/Escalades have the factory body cladding flares which reduce the size of the wheel wells.

If you had any other GMT400 vehicle, a 6" lift would max out at 36" tires on the street, (35" if you go offroad due to suspension articulation) but still require trimming or removal of the valence under the bumper, and likely the lower corner of the fender by the door. Yes, I've seen id10ts stuff 37's but they rub badly...
The luxury SUV's dont have a removable valence... With factory Denali/Escalade flares, you lose 3/4" all the way around. That means 34.5, say a 315 75 16 is max if you never turn corners.
No lift at all? 33" tires is maximum. 285 75 16 (or equivalent) on OE wheels.

33's only fit my '00 Denali with OE offset wheels. And that's with my bars up a little bit for my snow plow. Aftermarket wheels, with a different offset, chewed up my front bumper cover.

Most people who invert the balljoints (mount them like their 8-lug cousins) go on to continue cranking the torsion bars, putting the outer tie rods, CV shafts and lower balljoints at an extreme angle. Its a recipe for accelerated wear, especially with heavy oversize tires. In a word, don't.

Also, inverting the ball joints will hit the 16" wheels. You need 18"s or larger. Or a 1.5" wheel spacer, but then we're back to the interference with the body cladding again.

You still want 35's? Get a 10" lift.
Or a 6" plus a 3" body lift. Either way, it's not gonna be pretty...

My honest advice is sell the 275 65's and buy 275 55's.

Edit: 1" of torsion bar crank may yield you 1" of extra tire height, but not clearance in front or in back (say 3 o-clock and 9 o-clock on the tire)
Stock tire size is 30.5. So you'll get 33's but might still rub the reduced wheel well space. 35's just ain't gonna happen with nearly OE ride height.
 
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boy&hisdogs

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I had 33's on my truck (285/70/16 and 33x12.50r16) before I lifted it. Both sets mounted on the same aftermarket wheels, 16x8 with 5" BS. Both fit fine, the 12.50s rubbed occasionally off road but were fine on road. Now I'm lifted 6" on 37s and I had to do some cutting on the bumper and fender to make them fit, and they still rub sometimes. It would be better if I didn't have spacers but even still 35s would have cleared way better.

I wouldn't go bigger than a 33 x 10.50 or 11.50 at stock height, even with crank. Wheel width and backspace plays a huge role in this too. The closer they are to stock, the better clearance you will have. Besides clearance, you lose a lot of power going to bigger tires without changing gears, which is $$$$. People always get sticker shock at the cost of the lift kit, but it's all the other stuff that really drains you.
 

Cadillac Bob

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So I have stock ride height and 32.5” x11.5 really is what overall size is biggest your going to get on 400 Escalades & Denalis! Yes sell those tires an put that money towards your new wheels and tires! But as a side note are you staying with 20”s or smaller back to stock 16”s which if you live in Michigan I could meet up and sell you my old wheels and new 1500miles tires all ready to just bolt on? But you probably aren’t looking to go back to stock anyway? But he’s right wheel wells are smaller due to cladding and 400 Escalades/Denalis just don’t look good without having cladding and painted running boards! Here’s before an after pics
 

Cadillac Bob

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It’d be awesome to have you tell your story of your Escalade on that thread I made it for the few that our on here that own them and for others that want one!!
 

Cadillac Bob

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Hello all, looking for advice, knowledge and ideas.

Have 2000 Escalade project truck with 20” aftermarket wheels, tires are shot and purchased some 2500 take offs, Goodyear trail runners at 275/65/20 for good deal. Completely rebuilding front end then rear end (steering suspension bearings brakes axels). So tires are about 35” and I need to make them fit. Currently not interested in cutting frame for lift kit and doubtful about cranking cause of ride quality. Have few questions below and sure more to follow.

What is gained by inverting ball joints?

Thinking 1” crank will allow wheels to fit due to their narrowness compared to others. Stock keys thoughts/issues?

What do aftermarket tb keys offer?

Want bilstein 5100s cause may lift in future. At rest 14.5” drooped 18”. Does this sound right? And which 5100 is needed.

Anyway to modify upper arm stop to allow for cranking and not lose ride quality?
What’s your mileage? An how’s your interior holding up? You have more pics?
 

Jroems

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Thanks for info guys. Caddy bob I will absolutely post on your thread. Got about 2-3 more Saturdays to put back together. Cleaning 20 years of grime is no bueno. I’m down here in Gulfport ms. Mileage is 220ish.

Interior is good. Front seats reupholstered but not perfect. Dash is cracked. I’ll have to get pics tomorrow.
 
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