2000 Crew Cab Short Box with LQ9 VortecMax Engine

[ryeguy2006a]

I didn't get many pictures as I was so busy running around and getting all of the parts, but I basically swapped things back to stock. Or what a stock 2006ish truck would have had factory since the engine is a 2006. I added back in some catalytic converters from Flowmaster, part number 222 in 2.5". Since I had bad luck with the Dynamax muffler with the sound absorbing material blowing out, I wanted one that was even a little more quiet that just simply had baffling. I opted for a Walker Queitflow SS (part 21533) that had dual 2.5" inlets, and a single 3" outlet. It worked out great, because I had some left-over 3" piping from when I did the exhaust on my 1968 Camaro, so I was able to make a nice tail-pipe that exits behind the passenger rear wheel, similar to stock.

Overall I'm extremely happy with the set-up now. Both the muffler that was on it when I bought the truck and the Ultraflo X were both louder than I'd like and both had pretty bad exhaust drone at around 1800-2500 rpms. Not good when the truck cruises at that rpm. The cats cleaned up that slight exhaust fume that was coming into the truck so I'm thrilled.

I have to give kudos to Autozone for the quick delivery of the Walker muffler. I ordered the muffler at noon on Friday, and had the muffler by noon on Saturday! Best part is that it was a free service!

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I'd like to get a 60* turn out for the tail pipe to exit at an angle rather than straight back and get a nice chrome tip for it. I'll do that in good time though.

 

[ryeguy2006a]

To continue on with my electric fan swap, I was able to source an OEM 05+ Silverado Fan fuse/relay box. I was able to swap a fellow forum member the Escalade Steering wheel I picked up a while back for this wiring harness! Win-Win. This made my job much easier as I simply needed to supply 12V+, grounds, and fan signals from the ECU.

What I started with:

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I originally wanted to mount it in the stock 05+ location, but it was very cluttered over there and the passenger side made for a nice flat mounting surface.

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When he snagged the fuse block, there was enough length on the main 12V+ feed that I was able to hook it directly to the alternator, for a really good main feed.

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All Cleaned up and ready for final install.

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In case anyone hasn't see this before, here is how to add/remove pins to the 0411 ECU. Pull off the blue/red covers and there is a small white tap that has to be bent back slightly and the pin can slide in or out. In my case, I added a Pin to Blue 42 for Fan 1(Low) and Red 33 Fan 2 (High). For Red 33 there was already a pin in this spot which was for the A/C recirculation door inside the cabin. This was meant to trigger if the system pressure is too high as a way to cool it off if the mechanical fan wasn't enough. Since I have the electric fans, this wasn't necessary so I just tapped off this pin and added the one for my fans.

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It's difficult to get a great angle of the functional, not finished, product. I still plan to add a small bracket to the upper radiator brackets to bolt down the upper part of the fan assembly. I also bought some SEM trim black to refinish the top of the core support. All in good time.

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Now the system is fully functional, I am very impressed overall with how well it works. My first impression is that the motor seems to rev more freely and it did seem to have a little more pick up when accelerating. I haven't quite had a full tank of gas in it since I took off the mechanical fan, but it certainly seems to use less fuel. I'm typically around 200 trip miles around 1/4 tank, and right now I'm at 220. I'll see when I get down a little more and see what it comes out to. I'm typically right around 12.5-12.8 MPG, so I'll see what if any the increase truly is.

The other thing worth noting is that these Silverado fans move a lot of air! When the fans kick on at 201*, the fans kick on, and it will quite quickly drop to around 198* the fans kick off, but the temp will continue to drop until around 194*. Then the cycle repeats. Nice!

 

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a while since I've updated this thread, mostly just racking up the miles. This was at the beginning of summer, and I towed the first load. Not a huge weight, but 3 yards of mulch that I could definitely feel behind me. I got to use the towhaul mode and it worked so nicely.

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I also washed it all up and took some pictures with my new VortecMAX emblems.

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Then a few weeks ago, I finally installed the tonneau cover that I kept from my old truck. It fit like a charm and makes the bed more useful in my opinion. I use the truck as a family hauler so having a dry spot not in the cabin is a huge plus.

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Thanks,
Ryan

 

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for all the likes! I just bought the last of the parts needed for the GMT800 knuckle swap to upgrade to bigger front brakes. Pretty stoked about that since my front brakes are pretty shot.

 

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally got around to installing the GMT800 brakes, and what a difference they make. The stopping power is almost scary, and really makes you recognize how poor the brakes really were. When I first bought this truck I went from a 2003 Silverado 1500 and it was very noticeable how much worse they were when I first started driving the CCSB.

Here is what I started with.

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I was pretty amazed that these were the original ball joints! They really didn't have any play in them, but I figured after 249.5K it was time to replace.

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All my parts laid out ready to install. I bought a kit through Powerstop that came with new calipers, rotors and pads. Got it through Rock Auto for $209. Not too bad in my opinion.

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Brand new Shiny calipers.

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First test fit with the new spindle/knuckle. First great with some fresh upper and lower ball joints.

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And here is the completed job! They look great and fit just like the stock parts.

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Just wanted to point some things out for those that may attempt this swap in the future. I did notice that there was a slight decrease in the turning radius. Not a lot, but it is noticeable. My spindles and hubs came out of a 2002 2500 HD Silverado for those wondering.

The other question that I really never could find was that the ABS rings appear to be the same as the old spindles. The ABS light went out when I replaced the fuse and hasn't come on since. It pulses as well just like it used to when I apply the brakes hard.

Some people mention that you need to use the GMT800 axles for the fronts, but you can re-use the stock axles so long as you tap down a ridge that flares out. I tapped my down to be parallel with the splined shaft and it slipped in no problem.

My first impressions of the drive after the install are night and day. It significantly helped with the stopping power. The pedal is almost effortless and it will come to a stop in a hurry. Definitely worth the upgrade if you can get the parts for the right price.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[ryeguy2006a]

Oh and I re-used my stock brake lines rather than using the GMT800 lines. The 800 lines use a different size fitting, and rather than cutting them off and re-flaring, the stock lines fit just fine. I reused the bolts and washers since they were in good shape.

 

[Supercharged111]

Vacuum brakes is why they sucked in the first place. I'm curious what your GVWR is and how thick your frame is?

 

[ryeguy2006a]

I'd have to get a measurement on the frame but the VIN is for 8600

 

[Supercharged111]

Reason I ask about your frame is this: my CCLB dually has a 5/16" thick frame, the CCLB 2500 that I chopped the last few inches of frame off of to patch mine was 5/16", the ECLB dually I junked was 1/4", and my 1500 is 3/16". Just wondering what the CCSBs were to determine what the variable was to get GM to make a 5/16" frame.