2000, 454 vortec bb engine seems to be missing after distributor R&R

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Mangonesailor

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Howd you do the relearn
You have to have a professional scan/tuning tool. Hptuners can do it, snap-ons and matco, and tech 2s.

Let us know when you get back on shore. You might want to make an investment in some tuning software or find someone with the tool and start there first.
 

Ttoyota

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Will do. So if i bought hp tuners what exactly would you buy and from what vendor. Kinda hit a lick on igc stock so i have a little spending money to spare
 

Ttoyota

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Man i know im all over the place tonight, but have you done the gmt800 brake upgrade? The brakes are huge and my spongy %^&# pedal is gone!!
 

Ttoyota

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Only problem is i still need to ream steering tie rods and find correct outer tie rod pn
 

Mangonesailor

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Only problem is i still need to ream steering tie rods and find correct outer tie rod pn
? Your tie rod ears on the knuckles are worn out?
Will do. So if i bought hp tuners what exactly would you buy and from what vendor. Kinda hit a lick on igc stock so i have a little spending money to spare
I tried looking around for the HP tuners setup like I have (it the "old" hardware version with a long OBD cable and the like) and it looks like its not possible to buy anymore. They have a new dongle that's used, which uses bluetooth to connect. They haven't released their "pro" version yet which allows you to plug up auxillary I/Os to the dongle to allow you to log readings from external sensors and operate relays to turn on nitrous or shift lights and crap.

The basic package that they have right now should work. Or I'd wait it out until they release the pro version. I can't confirm, but I'll bet EFI live can do the same thing for you. Or, if you're wanting to tune the truck via wideband, you can have a shop with a scanner do the relearn for you and buy the HP tuner pro version later.
Man i know im all over the place tonight, but have you done the gmt800 brake upgrade? The brakes are huge and my spongy %^&# pedal is gone!!

Nope, haven't done it. I figured I'd just upgrade to powerstop rotors/pads when I had to do my brakes next. I don't mind how my brakes are. If I could get a hold of a newer rear disk 14blt full float though I'd swap the rear axle out for that instead for 4w disk brakes.
 

Ttoyota

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Damn. Guess I'll wait for the pro version. The only dyno shop around Memphis wants 800 to tune. Ouch!

I explained the computer swap to him and he just about hung up on me.
 

Christian Steffen

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ave either you or Christian researched the aluminum bbc heads sold by skip white performance? Is it even possible or beneficial to go with a aftermarket head on our trucks. I looked up the dollar bill test.it mentions symptoms being stuck or burnt valve or possibly bad head gasket. Sad to say but i did red line my temp a few times due to a crappy ground on my flex a lite e fans. This was before i did pcm dizzy injectors etc. I wonder if i have a bad head gasket. Heck i just dont know...

Never have looked into them, man they are at a nice price though lol compared to other BB heads anyway. You may wanna look into some reviews on them before thinking too much into them, just to see if anyone else has tried them out. Are you looking at them as just a lowish cost upgrade if your heads are bad? A used set of stockers can't be too expensive. There would probably be some performance gain to be had with aftermarket heads, but I have a gut feeling that the intake is going to become a limit.

I know my gas needle isn't calibrated right post 411 nor is my engine temp or mph. All post 411.

It sounds like there is some room to improve your tune for sure. Engine temp on the gauge isn't computer controlled th
? Your tie rod ears on the knuckles are worn out?

I tried looking around for the HP tuners setup like I have (it the "old" hardware version with a long OBD cable and the like) and it looks like its not possible to buy anymore. They have a new dongle that's used, which uses bluetooth to connect. They haven't released their "pro" version yet which allows you to plug up auxillary I/Os to the dongle to allow you to log readings from external sensors and operate relays to turn on nitrous or shift lights and crap.

The basic package that they have right now should work. Or I'd wait it out until they release the pro version. I can't confirm, but I'll bet EFI live can do the same thing for you. Or, if you're wanting to tune the truck via wideband, you can have a shop with a scanner do the relearn for you and buy the HP tuner pro version later.

Pretty sure efi live will do what you need, there are a couple people on here that use it. I believe hp tuners is going to offer an upgrade for just the price difference once they release pro, but I'm not 100% sure on that. For gas engine tuning a wideband is a must IMO. At least you could get quite a bit of the issues fixed with the standard, and tune the vast majority of the airflow tables with the narrowbands until they release pro.

Not surprising to hear that about a shop too, they're spendy.
 

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Never have looked into them, man they are at a nice price though lol compared to other BB heads anyway. You may wanna look into some reviews on them before thinking too much into them, just to see if anyone else has tried them out. Are you looking at them as just a lowish cost upgrade if your heads are bad? A used set of stockers can't be too expensive. There would probably be some performance gain to be had with aftermarket heads, but I have a gut feeling that the intake is going to become a limit.



It sounds like there is some room to improve your tune for sure. Engine temp on the gauge isn't computer controlled th


Pretty sure efi live will do what you need, there are a couple people on here that use it. I believe hp tuners is going to offer an upgrade for just the price difference once they release pro, but I'm not 100% sure on that. For gas engine tuning a wideband is a must IMO. At least you could get quite a bit of the issues fixed with the standard, and tune the vast majority of the airflow tables with the narrowbands until they release pro.

Not surprising to hear that about a shop too, they're spendy.
I've watched some ol timer head porting pro on you tube do a comparison between brodix Chinese and factory heads. The Chinese one seemed to be the best in his opinion. He did say by them completely bare and fill them with quAlity American parts however. I honestly dont know which ones would even work or if they even have a version for our truck. Skip white has his own you tube videos and the whole process seems pretty legit. Alright wideband. Do i need to get one for each bank or how does that work? Was looking at aem awhile back what is your brand of choice? Want to get the hp tuners pro. I'll have to see if i can upgrade before buying the other one.
 

df2x4

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I've watched some ol timer head porting pro on you tube do a comparison between brodix Chinese and factory heads. The Chinese one seemed to be the best in his opinion. He did say by them completely bare and fill them with quAlity American parts however. I honestly dont know which ones would even work or if they even have a version for our truck. Skip white has his own you tube videos and the whole process seems pretty legit. Alright wideband. Do i need to get one for each bank or how does that work? Was looking at aem awhile back what is your brand of choice? Want to get the hp tuners pro. I'll have to see if i can upgrade before buying the other one.

The AEM UEGO wideband is good stuff. I run one of them in my Monte Carlo. If I were you I'd just weld a bung into both sides of the exhaust so that you can move the sensor from one bank to the other for troubleshooting purposes. The two banks should read the same unless something is wrong.
 

Mangonesailor

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Alright wideband. Do i need to get one for each bank or how does that work? Was looking at aem awhile back what is your brand of choice? Want to get the hp tuners pro. I'll have to see if i can upgrade before buying the other one.

If I were you I'd just weld a bung into both sides of the exhaust so that you can move the sensor from one bank to the other for troubleshooting purposes. The two banks should read the same unless something is wrong.

Yeah, if you log your O2 sensor voltages you'll be able to tell (er, should be) if you're running rich/lean on one bank while driving around or in PE mode.
 
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