I’d like to preface this by admitting I (regretfully) did very little research before buying this kit. Many of you are likely already aware of the shortcomings of this kit and “lifting” these trucks this way, as I now am too. RC filters their website reviews and rejects anything that’s not 4-5 stars with a “this is the best lift kit EVER” so hopefully this will help inform others considering this route.
Installation of this kit is involved, but not terrible. If you’re mechanically inclined and have access to good tools, you’ll be fine. Instructions are vague at times. You definitely need a 2nd set of hands when dropping/reinstalling the front diff. Other than that most of it can be done solo. There is some cutting, drilling and grinding by design. Grinding the heat sink fins on the driver side diff takes some time. The directions are extremely vague for this step. I recommend grinding at least 1/4” to start, because hoisting the diff up and down to check fit is a PITA. I had 14 hours into my install, working solo 90% of the time and using basic hand tools.
Fitment of the parts overall is pretty good. I would check all brackets and PN’s before you dive in, as my kit had two passenger side upper diff brackets as oppose to a driver and passenger. They’re not interchangeable. I of course didn’t realize this until I was neck deep in the install. RC’s idea of outstanding customer service was to send extra brackets I didn’t need for “no additional charge”, instead of overnighting the one part like I requested so that I could get my truck back together. Thanks guys. I ended up hacking and whacking the bracket to fit.
This kit is basically a glorified torsion bar crank. Cranking the torsion bars effectively adds more preload to the spring and as a result, your ride quality will suffer. The diff drop helps to maintain reasonable CV angles, which is good, but doesn’t do anything for steering components or lower ball joints. Following the instructions in the kit, my front end was cranked so high (the 3” advertised) after initial installation, the UCA’s were basically riding on the droop stops, the CV angles were horrible, and the truck rode like absolute dog $#!+. I cut the droop stops off (like an idiot) thinking I would gain more droop travel this way and eliminate the frame splitting hit that occurred every time I drove over mildly uneven pavement. I was wrong, as it was the CV axles binding and limiting the droop travel. Turns out, the “improved” UCA’s which come with the kit allow the CV’s to bind at max droop, even with the stops present.
I drove this way for about 8k miles before finally deciding to drop it down. I decranked 3/4” up front and dropped from 2” to 1.5” rear blocks to maintain level ride height. The kit torsion keys just barely allowed for this drop, any more would’ve required reinstalling the stock keys. Had to trim the front valence ever so slightly to get front tires to clear (295/55/20’s). The truck rode noticeably better, and no more CV binding. However, my positive camber now resembled an AG tractor. Alignment shop maxed out adjustment on both UCA’s to pull it in, even with the knockouts punched, but they’re still way positive and out of spec. Since I’m now below the “designed” ride height of the lift, the UCA geometry isn’t right...or maybe the UCA’s just suck in general. I’m leaning towards the latter.
So end result: truck rides better, front end isn’t destroying itself (as quickly at least), no more CV binding, alignment is okay but still too much positive camber induced by the UCAs.
In conclusion, I would not recommend this lift unless you have zero regard for ride quality, front end health, or proper alignment. The advertised 3” front, 2” rear is only achievable if you’re willing to beat the absolute mess out of your truck and yourself. 2” front, 1.5” rear is where I ended up, with a not-great-but-tolerable ride and the UCA’s preventing proper camber adjustment.
Installation of this kit is involved, but not terrible. If you’re mechanically inclined and have access to good tools, you’ll be fine. Instructions are vague at times. You definitely need a 2nd set of hands when dropping/reinstalling the front diff. Other than that most of it can be done solo. There is some cutting, drilling and grinding by design. Grinding the heat sink fins on the driver side diff takes some time. The directions are extremely vague for this step. I recommend grinding at least 1/4” to start, because hoisting the diff up and down to check fit is a PITA. I had 14 hours into my install, working solo 90% of the time and using basic hand tools.
Fitment of the parts overall is pretty good. I would check all brackets and PN’s before you dive in, as my kit had two passenger side upper diff brackets as oppose to a driver and passenger. They’re not interchangeable. I of course didn’t realize this until I was neck deep in the install. RC’s idea of outstanding customer service was to send extra brackets I didn’t need for “no additional charge”, instead of overnighting the one part like I requested so that I could get my truck back together. Thanks guys. I ended up hacking and whacking the bracket to fit.
This kit is basically a glorified torsion bar crank. Cranking the torsion bars effectively adds more preload to the spring and as a result, your ride quality will suffer. The diff drop helps to maintain reasonable CV angles, which is good, but doesn’t do anything for steering components or lower ball joints. Following the instructions in the kit, my front end was cranked so high (the 3” advertised) after initial installation, the UCA’s were basically riding on the droop stops, the CV angles were horrible, and the truck rode like absolute dog $#!+. I cut the droop stops off (like an idiot) thinking I would gain more droop travel this way and eliminate the frame splitting hit that occurred every time I drove over mildly uneven pavement. I was wrong, as it was the CV axles binding and limiting the droop travel. Turns out, the “improved” UCA’s which come with the kit allow the CV’s to bind at max droop, even with the stops present.
I drove this way for about 8k miles before finally deciding to drop it down. I decranked 3/4” up front and dropped from 2” to 1.5” rear blocks to maintain level ride height. The kit torsion keys just barely allowed for this drop, any more would’ve required reinstalling the stock keys. Had to trim the front valence ever so slightly to get front tires to clear (295/55/20’s). The truck rode noticeably better, and no more CV binding. However, my positive camber now resembled an AG tractor. Alignment shop maxed out adjustment on both UCA’s to pull it in, even with the knockouts punched, but they’re still way positive and out of spec. Since I’m now below the “designed” ride height of the lift, the UCA geometry isn’t right...or maybe the UCA’s just suck in general. I’m leaning towards the latter.
So end result: truck rides better, front end isn’t destroying itself (as quickly at least), no more CV binding, alignment is okay but still too much positive camber induced by the UCAs.
In conclusion, I would not recommend this lift unless you have zero regard for ride quality, front end health, or proper alignment. The advertised 3” front, 2” rear is only achievable if you’re willing to beat the absolute mess out of your truck and yourself. 2” front, 1.5” rear is where I ended up, with a not-great-but-tolerable ride and the UCA’s preventing proper camber adjustment.
