TX_GMT425
Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2015
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 11
Hi everybody, first time long time (forum lurker). I've been a member for years and have gotten lot of help from this forum, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out with a strange one. I'll try to keep it brief but include the full story.
After being my daily for about seven years, I put the old Suburban away after buying a new truck last year. 153k miles, I've done a lot of work over the years to keep it right, and it drove perfectly when I put it in storage. It was driven on three different weekends over about a year, and last drove it for a week in June while the new truck was in the shop. Again, drove great with no issues. Last month, I went over to bring it back home to replace all of the bushings and other rubber, and the battery had died. While trying to jump start it, I used my charger/starter to try and start it one last time before breaking down and buying a new battery. When Dad hit the start button on the charger (275 amps, computer controlled to dump when it senses load), I turned the key and it never fully turned over (very dead, faulted battery). As soon as I released the key, I heard a noise that almost sounded like arcing (not the same but closest I can come to describing it), and the power locks cycled a couple of times before he unplugged the charger. After putting in the new battery, it starts and runs great, no DTC's in Dash Command or Tech2Win, but it won't shift at all. From Park, when I shift to Reverse, or any forward gear, the indicator shows the selected gear, and the revs come up about 50-75rpm indicated (instead of going down under load - seems like the computer is recognizing the shift command and compensating), but it will not go into gear. I've tried giving it throttle up to about 1500 RPM to see if it would pop into gear (thinking maybe just sat too long and something was stuck), but again, it won't go into gear. One other strange thing is that once you shift out of Park, you can run back and forth from Reverse down to 1st and back including Neutral, and the only thing that changes is the slight climb in revs as it expects to go into gear, but if you try to shift into Park while the engine is running you get a horrible grinding noise as the pawl tries to drop into an apparently spinning shaft. Once the truck is off, you can go back to Park.
I'm a decent pair of hands for most things, but I know almost nothing about automatics. I looked through the GM 4L60E manual and the FSM for my truck but I'm not sharp enough with these to figure it out. I bought the shift solenoids and filter kit (always AC Delco for parts) and was planning to start there, but I'm pretty lost on this. Also worth noting, no fluid leaks, level is good and seems to drop when you put it in Neutral. I'm thinking it has to be something electrical since it started after the failed jump start and everything was fine a couple of months before, but I'm afraid all I'm going to do without some help is fire the parts cannon at the problem.
If anyone has anything to go on, I would be very grateful. I have a VCX Nano with Tech2Win hooked up and also have a DashCommand license for this truck, along with a standard Innova 3040c, multimeter, test light, etc. I just really need some direction on this one. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any help.
After being my daily for about seven years, I put the old Suburban away after buying a new truck last year. 153k miles, I've done a lot of work over the years to keep it right, and it drove perfectly when I put it in storage. It was driven on three different weekends over about a year, and last drove it for a week in June while the new truck was in the shop. Again, drove great with no issues. Last month, I went over to bring it back home to replace all of the bushings and other rubber, and the battery had died. While trying to jump start it, I used my charger/starter to try and start it one last time before breaking down and buying a new battery. When Dad hit the start button on the charger (275 amps, computer controlled to dump when it senses load), I turned the key and it never fully turned over (very dead, faulted battery). As soon as I released the key, I heard a noise that almost sounded like arcing (not the same but closest I can come to describing it), and the power locks cycled a couple of times before he unplugged the charger. After putting in the new battery, it starts and runs great, no DTC's in Dash Command or Tech2Win, but it won't shift at all. From Park, when I shift to Reverse, or any forward gear, the indicator shows the selected gear, and the revs come up about 50-75rpm indicated (instead of going down under load - seems like the computer is recognizing the shift command and compensating), but it will not go into gear. I've tried giving it throttle up to about 1500 RPM to see if it would pop into gear (thinking maybe just sat too long and something was stuck), but again, it won't go into gear. One other strange thing is that once you shift out of Park, you can run back and forth from Reverse down to 1st and back including Neutral, and the only thing that changes is the slight climb in revs as it expects to go into gear, but if you try to shift into Park while the engine is running you get a horrible grinding noise as the pawl tries to drop into an apparently spinning shaft. Once the truck is off, you can go back to Park.
I'm a decent pair of hands for most things, but I know almost nothing about automatics. I looked through the GM 4L60E manual and the FSM for my truck but I'm not sharp enough with these to figure it out. I bought the shift solenoids and filter kit (always AC Delco for parts) and was planning to start there, but I'm pretty lost on this. Also worth noting, no fluid leaks, level is good and seems to drop when you put it in Neutral. I'm thinking it has to be something electrical since it started after the failed jump start and everything was fine a couple of months before, but I'm afraid all I'm going to do without some help is fire the parts cannon at the problem.
If anyone has anything to go on, I would be very grateful. I have a VCX Nano with Tech2Win hooked up and also have a DashCommand license for this truck, along with a standard Innova 3040c, multimeter, test light, etc. I just really need some direction on this one. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any help.
