1998 k2500 454 getting hot

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

smokymtn65

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 3, 2021
Messages
220
Reaction score
184
Location
East TN
Didn't you wind up on the side of the road overheating due to timing issues?
I sure hope so! Granted they don't want as much timing as a 350, but that's still coming up a little light. May explain why they're not seeing the advance they want.
 

BeXtreme

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 13, 2020
Messages
374
Reaction score
371
Location
Salem, OR
Well, mechanic cut one of the cats off to gut it and the previous owner has already done so. New ECU on the way. If that doesn't do, I'm going with the engine builders recommended mechanic.
Has none of the mechanics actually logged timing/knock count/fuel trims while driving it? They actually CUT OFF EXHAUST to see if it was clogged? A $20 IR thermometer can tell you that in 5 minutes. Go out and drive it until it gets nice and hot, then check each manifold runner right at the exhaust port and then check temp right before cat and right after cat. Temps should in the low hundreds at the port, same or a little lower right before cat, and higher after the cat. If temps are getting hotter from the port to right before the cat and then lower after the cat, you have a bad/plugged cat.

Fuel trims should be no more than +-5% off. What are the knock counts? What is the CMP Offset? What is the actual timing reading compared to that table? Did you put new knock sensors and O2 sensors in when you had it rebuilt or are they the same ones? What does the O2 reading look like while its running? Is it quickly cycling back and forth between 100-800mv?

I would highly recommend a new mechanic/technician. They obviously have no idea how to troubleshoot EFI by the way they are just shotgun blasting parts at this thing. A technician should be able to hunt this issue down in a few days without destroying thousands of dollars in perfectly fine parts to "troubleshoot"
 

ralmo94

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 14, 2022
Messages
330
Reaction score
391
Location
Mo
While probably not the issue, I would suggest removing the iner fender splash guards if still in place and throwing them in the trash. Hot air needs to exit.

If everything else is in check I would see how it does with no coolant and 100% watter with water weter or equivalent additive.

There also is a chance there is some junk in a passage that was not removed after tanking the block.

Does the heater blow REALLY hot when it's warm?

My 98 runs about 178 with a 180 tstat, until I pull a grade with load then gets up around 200.

As stated could be knocking, or even false knock pulling timing. A good data log, not just a scanner in your hand, would probably tell you a lot.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,214
Reaction score
3,381
Location
Rural Illinois
Was this overheating issue ever resolved?

This thread seems to have gone dormant, without resolution.

(Edit) I see OP hasn’t been on since Aug12 this year.

R.I.P. for this thread.
 
Last edited:
Top