No. I lined it up myself and I found a real good welder. I got some really complete stock measurements and using those determined everything was square on the rear frame section. I used measurements for the rear cab mounts, the transmission mounts, and the rear frame tips to prove no diamond. Before cutting the frame in front of the frame joint welds I drilled an upper and lower 3/8 hole in the joint overlap and installed a grade 8 bolt and nut through the holes. There is a factory measuring hole on the rear frame section, just behind the weld joint, I did some very precise measurements from the measuring hole to the bolts and then from an upper and lower spot I marked on the old frame front cab mounts.
The bolt hole i drilled in the middle of the frame sections overlap was only a few inches from the measuring hole on the rear side and the cab mounts on the front side and this section I was working in had no damage.
After cutting the front damaged section off and removing the short piece of it remaining inside the rear frame I moved my new front frame section in place inside the rear section. I had set up my rear frame section with a level plus measured it from the floor to get height of frame bottoms equal on both sides, then slid the front section inside the rear section.
The front section I kept level and the same distance off the floor to keep it level, then lined up the 2 frame sections at the welds with those measurements I had from the 4 3/8 bolts holes drilled. Once I had it lined up the best I could, I used my 3/8 bolt holes in the rear frame section to drill through the front frame section. Bolted it all together, remeasured everything a bunch of times, cleaned it all up and got it welded.
I’m retired so lots of time available to do measurements a hundred times or so. After the weld, I figured I was within 1-2 mm of spec.