1998 K1500 Silverado 4X4 regular cab long box Frame Dimensions??

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NSDON

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I'm working on a smashed Silverado, where can I find frame dimension drawings, the frame is bent inward and I'm trying to figure out a fix. I found GMoutfitters.com drawings on here and on line but they only go back to about 2013 model year.

Where can I find the correct measurements?

Thanks,
Don
 

Vanishing Point

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To answer your inquiry, you will need a 1998 Light Duty Series 10,20, 30, 1500, 2500, and 3500 Body Builders Book. I only have a 1996 guide to send bad examples of pics of a 1996 K1500 4x4 regular cab body style with Specs, Dimensions & Designs. Unfortunately, they are not very good pics, so I recommend acquiring a copy of the book by searching the internet or purchasing from an Ebay source if available. Good luck in your search, and let us know how what happens!
 

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df2x4

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NSDON

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I found your link, it is this one.

I thought 1999 was not the same as 1998, plus this link for 1999 shows a different GVW for a K10903, this truck is 6100, that shown in your link is 6200. So is the frame on the 1999 K10903 the same as the 1998?

I had seen where the Suburban/Tahoe/3500 was the same frame for 1999 as 1998. So can you advise if the 1999 frame numbers are correct for my purposes and which of those listed in the link?

Thanks very much for the quick help to you both.

Don
 

df2x4

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So is the frame on the 1999 K10903 the same as the 1998?

I was under the impression that all '99-'00 classic body style GMT400s were basically the same as the '98s. If there are frame differences between '98 and '99, I'm not aware of them.
 

Hipster

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From a body guy, printed frame specs will only get you so far. Published frame specs measure length, width, and height based of a datum plane under the vehicle and an imaginary centerline of the vehicle. You have to know the source because different frame equipment suppliers use their own datum lines. On a specific brand frame machine, you're typically that brand's measuring equipment with the frame machine deck being the datum line from all which is to be measured which is different than what you'll get in an oem crash book as far as a datum line. They are also measured off their suspension with the suspension hanging or otherwise mounted/fixtured. A concrete floor, an asphalt driveway, etc that can be 1/2 inch wavy in a 10' span is not accurate enough.

There is also a process for measuring that starts with making sure the frame is still square(When one rail is pushed back from the other it's commonly called "diamond" ) in it's center section then you measure towards the ends for length, width, and height. You need all three measurements to be accurate.

It used to be common to get a front frame horn from a junkyard and section one on but it's not really an acceptable repair procedure these days. In not saying to do that or not do it but sometimes the frame swap is a better solution depending on what the measurements are telling you.
 
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HotrodZ06

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Would it be a possibility to find a front section of frame from the factory weld line under the front of the door forward, and weld in a good front frame section? I'm not sure how much work it would be or your resources, but for me would be easier than trying to straighten frame rails.
 

NSDON

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Thanks for all the above good advice. The front frame 4wd crossmember is welded to the frame horn area as is the 2 angled braces. That crossmember and the braces are bent rearward as is the rad support, which pulled the frame horns and both front fenders in, by my best guess about 1-1.5 inches.

As per the comments about frame machines and the use of an imaginary center line for measurements, I can see where any measurements I’ve found are based that way so not easy to use or helpful at the stage I’m at now.

I may be able to lay my hands on that front frame section mentioned and can see how that would be the easiest fix I guess. Straightening what’s there may not be possible.
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Hipster

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Thanks for all the above good advice. The front frame 4wd crossmember is welded to the frame horn area as is the 2 angled braces. That crossmember and the braces are bent rearward as is the rad support, which pulled the frame horns and both front fenders in, by my best guess about 1-1.5 inches.

As per the comments about frame machines and the use of an imaginary center line for measurements, I can see where any measurements I’ve found are based that way so not easy to use or helpful at the stage I’m at now.

I may be able to lay my hands on that front frame section mentioned and can see how that would be the easiest fix I guess. Straightening what’s there may not be possible.
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Bud, if you can get the whole frame instead of just the front frame section you would be miles ahead time wise, at that point putting it back together is all bolt together.

I can almost guarantee one rail is farther back than the other one so to do a front frame clip the bent frame is still going to need a frame machine to straighten out the back half BEFORE you cut the frame apart.
 
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