1998 ext cab 2 door 4x4 tranny swap issues

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Briscoe1623

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hey guys, just recently purchased a 1998 chev, ext cab short bed fleetside,
the guy i bought it off of switched it from its original condition being a ( 98 vortec 305 4l60e 4x4 on the right side of the dash )

to what it is now, 98 305 vortec 4x4 on the right side of the dash button, but it now has a nv3500 manual swap ??? maybe nv4500?
was told it came out of a 4.3l v6 4x4 5 speed truck.

The First Issue : the guy did and okay swap, but did lie to me about a few things, he didn't change the steering colum, he just de-pinned the auto shifter handle, and i do not like it the way it is, what can i find a colum out of that will work for me as it being a 98?? will the 98 s10 5 speed work? and does it have to be from a 4x4??

The Second Issue : my second problem is the guy pulled the check engine bulb in the cluster and lied and said the cluster was changed but he just covered the gear indicator with tape, which is fine in the day time but at night it still shines through... and is just as annoying as the check engine light being on.. wondering what truck i could pull a 5 speed cluster out of and have it for one fit in the dash correctly... and plug into the existing wiring clips.. which i believe to be the original 1998. i was wondering about a 98 s10 cluster possibly? or maybe one out of a 88-94 cluster be the same shape and wiring? curious to know what u guys have tried.

The Third And Biggest Issue : The guy told me a 5 speed ecu was swapped in, i bought it certified but not emission tested. i live in Ontario Canada and we have retarded emission laws that just keep getting sticky' ER!
well of course when i first drove it in the parking lot i didn't find an issue with it at first, but then after driving it i noticed that it has a rev hang almost from having an auto ecu in it still. well i took it to have it e-tested and it failed miserably.. not because of the emissions from the motor itself, the engine does have a

P0143 which comes back to an 02 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 3 would love to know what i need to fix this. And A...
P0507 which comes back to an idle air control system higher than expected, From an auto ecu possibly? or maybe it does have an idle issue? but it doesn't misfire or idle weird at all hot or cold. driving or parked. the exhaust does stink tho. also have the following

P0740 code for a torque converter clutch circuit/ open .. not sure because maybe nothing plugged into the tranny wiring? was told it was all removed, but haven't checked. maybe because it has an automatic ecu still? another code...

P0753 code for shift solenoid A electrical...
P0758 code for shift solenoid B electrical.... unsure of the reasoning behind both of these.. shed some light please..

Oh And to boot there's only enough room for 5 codes on a canadian tire e-test sheet and they want me to pay a diagnostics fee to determine the remainder of the codes showing...

so my main question as i'm getting a million different awnsers is how do i fix the ecu issues to get rid of the tranny codes? do i take my ecu in and have the dealer re flash it and pay out the bumm in fee's? i'm also hearing find another ecu for them to re flash because at least the tune on the current ecu is drive able somewhat, but if i try to find a 5 speed ecu or an automatic ecu what do i find one in that will work ?? i was also told it was never offered from factory to come with a 305 vortec 5 speed dash shift electronic 4x4 so where do i find one whats my best option??

another issue is he wired the reverse lights to a toggle switch left laying on the floor ran up through the shifter boot to pass a saftey.. said the tranny needs a reverse light switch and light would be a help as to what i order the switch for and to where i wire it in so that it works properly would be greatly appriciated.

sorry about some spelling and such kind of in a scramble.. as i just payed 4400 bucks for a truck that was supposed to be certified and etested.. and recieved a fictious saftey and... an expired etest, i would normally question the seller but he lives 6 hours away... :(


would like any help i can get this is my first post on this fourm with an account i had browsed ocasionally before and was told this is the spot to go please dont let me down guys im in a pickle !
 

poncho62

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1...question the seller, even if its 6 hrs away, we have phones these days......get your money back
2...dont go to a mechanic that lies to you.
 

Briscoe1623

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its a crappy deal all the way around the guy wont reply to me, i don't even know where he lives i met him half way.. i've even threated to call the ministry about the saftey and such. any help on my questions and issue's would be greatly appriciated.
 

poncho62

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I am thinking you need to put the standard transmission ECU in.....Might have to swap the harness too, if the auto one is different than the std one......Truck wont pass Ont emissions with check engine light on. I dont know enough about it if the Drive Clean equipment detects what codes are being shown. Up here where I live, we are out of the emission area...so no E tests....love it

You could always move up here......lol
 

Briscoe1623

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yeah im unsure of what to do... i would love if all of ontario would go to no etest's the etest machine detect's engine and transmission codes but stuff like abs lights and such dont have an affect on our emissions i do not believe
 

great white

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Bank 1 sensor 3 is the downstream 02 sensor on that side. It isused to monitor converter effeciency. Either the sensor has died or the cat has gone bad and killed it. Pray it's the sensor and not the cat....$$$$$$$!!!

All those transmission codes are in there because the PCM is looking for an automatic transmission. Which is not there. So its setting all those codes for the things that are missing. To get rid of them you will need to have the PCM reflashed with the proper calibration for a 5 speed. You're probably best off to find a "tuner" in your area who is good enough to do what is known as a "segment swap" in the PCM calibration as the dealer ris foign to be useless for that. They only flash stock calibrations (you may get lucky if that combination was offered stock, but it sounds like you've already checked in to that). No, its isn't going to be cheap. Expect 300-500 bucks for them to fix it.

Your IAC code is related to the IAC circuit. Thats where to look to fix it. If you have a "hanging rev" problem, this is a likely place to look for it. For sure its not becuse its an "auto PCM".

Anything you've said related to s-10 parts is not going to work. You need gmt400 parts. For the dash, you need 96+ years.

You can remove the LEDs in the cluster for the shift lights if they bug you.

Find out what transmission is in your truck and then order the reverse switch for that model.

Not a lot of happy info there for ya, but it is what it is. And heaven knows what else is going to pop up once you start setting things right.

Buddy screwed ya....good.
 
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Briscoe1623

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i appriciate the info Great White! i really do i'm really banging my head against a wall here... Hard.. to make matters worse i smacked it into a pole a half hour after it failed the etest... truck was painted 3 months ago.. ( only thing it has going good for it ) the rest is just bad luck as they say it comes in 3's..

which side of the truck is the 02 sensor if your sitting in the driver seat looking forward...?
i wondering if the cat is there at all? because it stinks something awful out the tail pipe.. and theres an exhuast leak somewhere in the y pipe is my guess

i might have a friend at the local dealer but he cannot do it he can send it to his friend.. in toronto area so im told to have it done.. but i really do not want to let them do it with the ecu that's in the truck as it is some what drive able.. the computer in it now has 595813 written on the sticker.. can i just go find another and have them reflash it or is it sync'd to the vin number...? cause that would come up in the etest process im sure..

as far as the rev hang it only does it when its driving, not at idle or anything thats why i had assumed it would be the ecu and not the iac thing, shed some more light if you could please..

yeah i know i got screwed i havent even explanied half the issues.. but thats neither here nor there..
 

great white

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Been a while since I messed with gassers. I do almost exclusively diesels these days, and when I do mess with gassers they are usually one of my friends kids front driver jobbies they can't get to run right. But iirc bank one is the driver side on a Vortec.

A tuner will reflash a PCM to your Vin. A low level scan of the PCM will not reveal anything out of the ordinary (ie: won't fail a simple etest). You can pick up any PCM from a scrapped truck that has the same part number and have it reflashed and no one will be the wiser.

You've probably got what's known as the "black box" PCM out under the hood. These are far more limited in reprogramming and have only recently been cracked (ie: retunable). A 411 PCM swap might be in your future for this truck....

I also have a hard time believing there isn't a stock PCM calibration that covers your truck (ie: 305/5speed/pushbutton 4x4) or can't be easily altered to cover it. Last ime I checked my calibration files, the 4x4 was just an on/off flag. Same with changing between auto/standard. Just a flag check box in the cal file which changed the tables and error code reporting. That's the difference between a tuner and the techs at the dealership: dealership is locked in to OEM, tuners can do whatever they like (as long as they have half a schmeck).

Does the exhaust stink like fuel or rotten eggs? Rotten eggs likely means your cat is dead or dieing. Heavy fuel smell means its rich and if the cat is not dead yet, it will be soon.

Get the proper calibration in the PCM and then start troubleshooting. Doing anything prior to that is wasting your time and money. Thenpcm is the brains of all the problems you are mentioning, gotta get the brain right first.

I think Hog is in Toronto, or at least Ontario somewhere. He can likely do the pcm reflash and segment swap if nessesary. Or he'll know someone who can do it for you . You can probably find him on pacificp.com, but he bounces around a couple forums. I'm not sure if he does it for money or hobby these days or even if he does anyone's vehicles besides his own.

If you were in Alberta, I'd send you to Lyndon. He doesn't really deal with individual customers on tunes over mail order any more. He mostly sells to shops and/or does dyno work in house.

Lextech or Aloicious on here may be able to help you, but they are in the States and you'd be mailing a PCM back and forth until it was right. There's almost an unlimited number of tuners if you are willing to mail it south. Problem with that is: you don't know if you're getting someone who knows what they're doing or not.

If I had the right vdf, I could probably do it in Tunercat II (tuning software/hardware in use), but honestly I not really interested in that. As mentioned , I do diesel almost exclusvely these days and don't do it for money. I mostly just hack around on friends trucks and my own.

The other option would be to buy efiLive (just over1000 bucks after shipping and exchange) and do it yourself. But I'm kinda getting the impression that might be above your current level of experience.
 
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