1998 3500 crew/longbed build

[Supercharged111]

I've used a momentary switch under the hood and stuck my finger in the hole and waited to feel it blow.

 

[Stumpy]

I've used a momentary switch under the hood and stuck my finger in the hole and waited to feel it blow.

I did the same, but had my wife bumping the key.

 

[themeec]

Cranked it manually to TDC and watched the distributor spin to be sure, reinstalled 180 degrees from the point it was at (finally on TDC Compression) and she fired right up. Couple spark plug cables weren't quite all the way seated, but after enough time to get the air outta the lines, she purrs again.

Tires and new lugs for the wheels arrive tomorrow, and plan to swap in the seats from the Silverado for a more comfy ride this weekend.

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[fancyTBI]

Glad you got it figured out. That is a sharp truck!

 

[BNielsen]

Cranked it manually to TDC and watched the distributor spin to be sure, reinstalled 180 degrees from the point it was at (finally on TDC Compression) and she fired right up. Couple spark plug cables weren't quite all the way seated, but after enough time to get the air outta the lines, she purrs again.

Tires and new lugs for the wheels arrive tomorrow, and plan to swap in the seats from the Silverado for a more comfy ride this weekend.

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Dually 400s and Alcoas. Makes a guy feel a certain kinda way.

 

[themeec]

Dually 400s and Alcoas. Makes a guy feel a certain kinda way.

Amen!

The ones it has on currently are some sort of Alcoa-style replica. Cleaned up nicer than I thought, but the hubcaps install on the backside of the wheel (not knock/pop off like a lot of ones now) and makes the lugs an absolute ******* to get off. Looking forward to swapping them out with something nicer when I dig into the lowering kit, paint, etc.

Nice to have the mechanical shenanigans out of the way though. Now it's time for the fun stuff!

 

[Orpedcrow]

Looking forward to swapping them out with something nicer when I dig into the lowering kit, paint, etc.

Like 22.5 alcoas?

 

[someotherguy]

Like 22.5 alcoas?

Or at least the direct-bolt 20's.. (Eagle Alloy, if they're still around)

Richard

 

[themeec]

Like 22.5 alcoas?

Would be fun, but this is a tow rig first, cool guy truck second. At least I won't have to worry about rubbing when I lower it

 

[ForeverFalcon40]

Buying a 6.5td to be the reliable vehicle for hauling sketchy vehicles around on a trailer.. is kinda like asking the fox to guard the hen house.

The #1 thing you can rely on a 6.5td for is to exhaust your wallet, patience, and walking shoes.

Richard

6.5's get a bad wrap b/c GM Techs weren't properly trained from the factory to work on them. They also get a bad wrap b/c you need some tools that can't be purchased from HF and some higher order of thinking compared to a Civic. New owner's also fail to realize its an IDI compared to the Coal Rolling Competition. At the time 6.5 was perfect for what it was compared to 454. Now that diesel is more expensive than gas as well as gas vehicles getting more efficient, owning a diesel is a novelty at this point.

It is 2022, the 6.5 has been perfected as far as correcting all its faults and performance platform is still evolving. I've owned 6.5's for close to 10 years and never left me stranded besides a ****** reman starter from AA.

Out of all the upgrades I have done...my biggest regret from the jump was Upgrading to an Air Dog Fuel System. I had NO IDEA how starved for fuel these trucks till I installed the system. Kinda emabarassing. Also doubles up as a bullet proof mod as you delete the leaky FFM as well as tank sock.

Bullet Proofing...

Relocate PMD to front bumper AS WELL AS KEEP A GOOD WORKING SPARE IN THE GLOVE BOX. I don't like used parts so I keep a BRAND NEW ONE and it saved me one time. On Electronically controlled IP if your truck has a crank no start the first step is to confirm PMD works.

Ditch Vac Pump

Beef Up Ground Wires and Relocate Them

Get Rid Of the Soot Trap

CDR valve

Fluid Dampnr with (Billet Pulley & Arp Hardware is Optional but Preferred but optional)

Confirm Starter Bracket is there as well as switch out 2 Starter Bolts to ARP

Glow Plugs like to swell up and break...I make it a good habit to change them out every 2 years. If money is tight, least you can do is pull them, clean them and re-install with antiseise on them. Best Glow Plugs are Declo's. The Glow Plug Harness is Flmsy...get a beefed up one

Upgrade to a Air Dog Fuel System to get rid of FFM and Tank (there are other ALT that are cheaper but thats for your wallet and you to decide)

Install Power Master starter...cold starts are very boring...The coldest its ever been was -12 and truck fired right up with ease.

A company just came out with coolant upgrade to prevent heads from cracking. I have only seen one kit installed on a hummer. I'm going to pass on tjis MOD, bc I'm going 12v.

If there is something I missed feel free to reach out...of course if you ever have to do headgaskets PLEASE Install ARP. If you plan to turn the boost past 12-15 PSI you plan on running the risk of blowing them without ARP. Personally I have it set to 10 and Mandingo has no issues smoking, whistling and working.

Another cheap upgrade is upgrade to 145 AMP as its a bolt on/plug and play. I wouldn't upgrade till OEM one goes. Also all the power wires to zero gauge.

Just remember maintenance before mods and some these things I mentioned above kill two birds with one stone.