1997 K3500 454 Vortec Tune Up Parts Advice.

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HotWheelsBurban

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www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-32109

$184 seems...excessive.

I was going to suggest Summit cut-to-fit helical-wound plug wires; but they've got the wrong distributor-end boots for Vortec.

I guess all they have is hateful, ugly blue preassembled wires.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-867826/make/chevrolet/model/k2500/year/1997

But at $44, made in USA...I'd keep the hood shut and try to forget the insulation color.
If you have a blue truck that wouldn't look too bad....and they won't get lost in all the 50 shades of gray/black under the hood of the truck. Then you can see if they're touching anywhere too.
 

wirlybird

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www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-32109

$184 seems...excessive.

I was going to suggest Summit cut-to-fit helical-wound plug wires; but they've got the wrong distributor-end boots for Vortec.

I guess all they have is hateful, ugly blue preassembled wires.
www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-867826/make/chevrolet/model/k2500/year/1997

But at $44, made in USA...I'd keep the hood shut and try to forget the insulation color.
How do you really go wrong with the Summit ones? Do you think these are good wires?
I agree that the MSD wires are expensive. I can live with blue if it is a good wire!
If you think these are a good choice vs. the MSD or a Delco then I'll go with them. Thanks.
 

Schurkey

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I've never bought the Summit Vortec wires.

I've got four sets of the Summit cut-to-fit wires, two installed on vehicles, two in the boxes, sitting on the shop shelf waiting to be used.

I wouldn't have posted the link if I didn't think they would be a good product.
 

961TonDually

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Do Not loosen your distributor unless you have a device or software to check Cam Timing. And it's not the timing you would use a timing light for. And if you do it's set at 0 + or - 2 degs.
 
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Kens1990K2500

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1. Sensors WORK, but they don't work as fast as they age. Sorta like me. They get "lazy" as they get old, so that they're not reporting rich/lean values as rapidly as they're supposed to. This results in reduced fuel economy LONG before there's a code set. Maybe even driveability issues, which could potentially set OTHER codes. Of course, no-one actually does this before the sensor actually fails. This is why O2 sensor cross-count values; or the graph of voltage vs. time on the scan tool is vitally important. You're getting solid data on the speed of the O2 sensor.

I don't know about OBD-II engines; I suppose the sensors last longer because the fuel and ignition systems are more-tightly controlled. Maybe. On pre-OBD-II vehicles, I start suspecting the O2 sensor is getting wiped at 50K miles; and I've seen them totally shot by 80K. 150K is insane. Don't get me started on vehicles that burn oil excessively, or dump steamed coolant into the exhaust.

2. Everyone bitches about O2 sensors being seized in the pipe or manifold. Duh. PULL THE FRIGGIN' THING OUT at 30K or 50K, even if all you intend to do is apply fresh anti-seize and screw it back in. This is EXACTLY the same advice they give for spark plugs, with only the service interval changed. (Iridium plugs in aluminum heads should come out at/before 100K miles, even if all you do is apply fresh antiseize and screw 'em back in. The plug may be perfectly useable, but waiting beyond 100K is begging for it to be seized in the head so bad you wreck the threads in the aluminum head taking them out later.) Of course, no one actually does this until the sensor (or plugs) are seized.

Foookin' people won't empty the crumb tray on their toasters, and that's free. Can't expect 'em to take care of their vehicles when it actually costs money.
That last paragraph is hilarious! They say comedy that is funny has a lot of truth behind it
 
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