1997 K2500 Suburban Cummins Install/Conversion

[SmittySS]

I guess there is a 5 pic upload limit... so here's the rest of the update.

The engine mount pads also need a trim, as well as a bar that runs from the front cross member to the frame rail. It definitely needs cut out on the Pass side, and I have removed that. It may need to be removed on the Drivers Side also, but I haven't cut it out yet. I was thinking I would leave it intact if I can:

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With these things cut out of the way... The engine is "IN."

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It isn't on engine mounts, but it is in the hole!
From here I'll, the next time I get to pull it in and work on it, I'll level out the engine and position it where I want it forward and backward, I'll get the engine mounts mocked up.

I have been checking out some of my accessory mounting options. I may have located a "mid" mount A/C bracket, I think that is what I'm going to need. If I use that I'll have both the Alt. and A/C compressor mounted on the passenger side.
I have seen other set-ups with the A/C Compressor basically in the stock GM location, but it appears that requires some specially pulleys, and possibly a clearance issue with the hood...

Stay Tuned for more updates!

God's blessings!
Smitty

P.S. Yes, the head lights are yellowed and I plan to do something about them... but I think they're the least of my concerns at this point. LOL

 

[SmittySS]

Wow! It's been too long since I've had enough done for an update.
Finally found some time to get to work on the swap, so here's the little bit of progress I've made:

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Fabricated the engine mounts, here's a pic of mocking up the passenger side mount:

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I drilled the holes for the First Gen Dodge/Cummins mounts, and touched up the paint on the frame a little:

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Update continued on next post...

 

[SmittySS]

I set the engine in as low as I could go, hopefully not too low. It does have VERY tight clearance on the drivers side between the pan rail and the front differential. I don't know how much it's going to shake or bounce around on the mounts, but if there isn't enough clearance I have a pretty good, and I believe relatively simple, fix for that... we'll cross that bridge if/when we get there. So now it's time to get it started now that it is in the chassis... to check those tight clearances.
Here's what it looks like in place and bolted to the mounts:

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I still am not sure I'm going to stay with the GM /454 radiator, or if I will be switching to a radiator from a Dodge. I used my original radiator for mock up, but it might be more radiator then I need for the Cummins. Also, it seems if I switch to a Dodge radiator, I may also be able to use the OEM Dodge fan shroud. I got a First Gen Dodge/Cummins intercooler with the engine when I bought it, I'm not sure if I'll be using that yet either, or if I'll be sourcing the larger 2nd Gen intercooler. I believe that would probably require swapping to the Dodge radiator also.

In the meantime... I found this gem at a very interesting Medium and Heavy Duty Truck recycling yard:

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I've heard this called the Mid-Mount, High-Mount, and the Fraightliner A/C bracket. I found this on a 90's F-700 Ford Dump Truck. I'm looking forward to getting this bolted to the engine... and making sure I have Air Conditioning after this swap!
This part new from the Cummins dealer near me was $230.00, picking it up and the parts yard was $80.00! I also had to by the straight hose connector, I bought that new from the dealer for $30.00.

So this is the progress I've made... Stay tuned for more!

God's blessings,
Smitty

 

[BowtieBrody]

Got to admit; you're slowly converting me to wanting to swap a 12 Valve in my old 96.

But it's so damn clean and runs so damn great that it puts me as still on the fence; maybe if I could find a decent RCLB with the W/T trim, I'd slap a 5.9 in that.....

 

[Sparkysikes]

This is definitely a clean install and the motor looks like it sits lower than normal. Will you still have room for the down pipe? How about a 4" downpipe

 

[SmittySS]

Got to admit; you're slowly converting me to wanting to swap a 12 Valve in my old 96.

But it's so damn clean and runs so damn great that it puts me as still on the fence; maybe if I could find a decent RCLB with the W/T trim, I'd slap a 5.9 in that.....

Keep in mind... I wouldn't be doing this swap if the 7.4L that was in this Suburban ran "so damn great," it was rod knocked... I like Big Blocks so much, it was nearly a 496 stroker.

Smitty

 

[SmittySS]

This is definitely a clean install and the motor looks like it sits lower than normal. Will you still have room for the down pipe? How about a 4" downpipe

Looks like the down pipe is tight with this particular manifold, no mater how high or low the engine is sitting in the frame. Other people have made it work with this exhaust manifold, so I'm going to give it a shot! I'm not sure about 4" though.
I was thinking I would make a 3" downpipe to meander it's way under the bulkhead and around the transmission and starter. Then bump it up to a 4" system. I was considering "Diamond Eye" 4" exhaust made for a 6.5 2500/3500 Chevy Truck:

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Diamond Eye Turbo Back Exhaust Chevy 6.5L Diesel 1993-2000 K4102A
Looks like it goes for about $230-$286 depending on if you want a muffler, a straight pipe, or no pipe (supply the muffler yourself).
Anyone have any other suggestions? Seems like the "tailpipe/over the axle pipe" is the most important piece... the rest could probably be done with straight pipe, maybe a little bend...

Thanks!
Smitty

 

[Sparkysikes]

My prior owner had a 4" straight pipe welded onto stock DP. Sounded ok. Than. I did the diamond eye 3" mandrel dp and crossover. She'd get louder but less drone Hx35 and it was obnoxious. I put in a 7" x 24" and a 3" to 4" adapter and a flex pipe and now the exhaust purrs like a kitten. Motor is as loud as a dump truck but it's way quite on the inside. I'd say a nice pass through I think mines a aero XL but I can't remember

 

[SmittySS]

Just an update to let everyone know I haven't given up

I haven't made major advances in the build, but I'm still slowly making progress.
Yesterday I ordered the shift control module for the 4L80E. I went with the US Shift; Quick 4. Not the least expensive option, but I think the advantages are worth it. Cost $725 including shipping, and I should see it before the end of next week. I also purchased the Dakota Digital Tach adapter, expecting that before the end of next week as well.

I had the Rear driveshaft shortened, and it's installed now... after putting it in, I had to make a lap around the parking lot and go from forward to reverse a couple of times. It seems like a big accomplishment to have it move under its own power! Only at an idle though... still don't have the throttle linkage hooked up.

Purchased a CL find this week too... Found a used 2nd Gen Intercooler for $100. Had to drive about and hour to get it. After looking at the 1st Gen (that has already had some mods done to it by the previous owner) a little closer, with the grill of the truck out, I don't think the fab work required would get me what I would like to have.

Also went to Fastenal and picked up the metric bolts I needed for bolting the AC compressor to the bracket. I had gone to the junk yard to get the bolts off an old Dodge truck since the Dodge variant of the AC compressor fits the bolt spacing of the Mid Mount/Freightliner AC bracket. However, I found out at the junk yard that the Dodge bolts are not metric.
I now have the bracket and the compressor mocked up on the engine, and working on making some Alt. brackets...

So I have some more fabrication/modification work I can do as I wait for the electronics to arrive.

We have a family function out of state at the end of this month that I would like to take the Cummins Swapped Suburban to. Will it be finished?

We have plans for a bigger trip in Aug. for it too, MI to AZ.

So, more pics and maybe video coming soon... Stay tuned.

Smitty

 

[Sparkysikes]

Yay.