1997 gmc yukon ignition switch connector pin diagram

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nicksuspect

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Hello Fellow GM. Names Nick new here. Currently looking for the ignition switch conector pin diagram. Having problems with my steering wheel position sensor losing power. Randomly. I changed the original sensor with the same oe new sensor now it works but it loses power intermediate. The wire goes to the ignition wiring harness connector. The ignition is new was replaced. The 3 wires for the steering wheel sensor were transplanted to the new one since the new harness didn't come with it. All the forums are only of people trying to remove the steering wheel sensor but I don't want to get rid if it . I want to fix it. Drives better when it works and no loose steering. Anything will help. It's for a 1997 gmc yukon
 

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Regarding the "loose steering" feel when the column sensor loses power and doesn't operate properly... That's because the EVO system defaults to full boost when the column sensor fails. If the EVO module doesn't get the signal it's expecting from the column sensor, it opens the solenoid on the pump all the way.

If you remove the EVO steering system using the kit from GM (part number 19168825) the steering won't ever have that loose feeling. It results in a constant steering feel that's a nice happy medium. I used this kit on both of my '97s and I'm very happy with the results, and I kept the EVO as long as I could put up with it. I also liked mine when it worked, but I was replacing column sensors on a regular basis and eventually got to a point where I needed to replace an EVO module (discontinued part) and decided to go with the delete kit instead. I'm very picky about stuff like this and I have no regrets about removing the EVO. Honestly wish I would've done it sooner instead of wasting money on column sensors.
 

nicksuspect

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Yeah I've read that before. I just don't like that it throws a code each time. If I do the delete it will forever say that code and I'm not a quiter lol I need to fix it. That's why I'm looking for the diagram in hopes that I can fix the power problem so it works correctly. It would be cool if they came out with a way to delete that code also without coming back. So your saying you don't have loose steering now with the evo system removed?
 

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I just don't like that it throws a code each time.

What code specifically do you get? Does it set a check engine light? I never got any of that on either of my '97s. I haven't hooked up my Tech2 to see if there are any hidden codes, but I've never seen a check engine light from anything steering related.

So your saying you don't have loose steering now with the evo system removed?

Yes. Using the EVO delete kit from GM that I mentioned earlier resulted in a nice firm steering feel at all speeds in both of my '97s.
 

nicksuspect

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Yes it throws code a c507. And I'm assuming once I disconnect the plug from the pump sensor it'll probably throw another code. I've heard other people say it threw them an check engine light when it was disconnected from the pump.

Man well if I can't figure this out ima have to try the deleted way.





 

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df2x4

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Yes it throws code a c507.

That doesn't trigger a check engine light though, does it? I was under the impression that SRS/ABS/Steering codes wouldn't do that.

Like I said, I deleted the EVO from both of my '97s and I got no check engine lights. I'm sure there are probably stored codes but nothing you'd know about unless you plugged in a good scanner. You may be able to shut those codes off with appropriate tuning software as well. I recently purchased a copy of JET DST, whenever I get around to scanning the PCMs in my '97s I can look and see if there are any parameters to disable steering codes.
 

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I'm honestly not sure but I have read forums on it saying some did get a check engine light.



But thanks to the manuals you sent me I was able to find the diagram and alittle more about how the steering position sensor works. And how to solve for those specific trouble codes it was throughing .Went through my wiring and found one of the connectors that connects at the ignition switch conector was crushed. Which was the purple return wire signal. Took the wire with the connector out pushed the pin back in that was bent. Now that it has full contact I haven't had it malfunction like it did before. Explains why I would loose juice intermediately.
 

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