1996 GMC K3500 Dually Build

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93M6Formula

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Got a little more info on the rust removal and plating?
In this case I simply cleaned it up with a wire brush, let it soak in muriatic acid for about 20 minutes, rinsed in distilled water then put it in. Eventually I want an abrasive tumbler to do that then probably still etch with acid and rinse. I could have also used my power supply to do rust removal via electrolysis.
 

93M6Formula

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Kinda slow progress but got further on the shortblock. Finally got my parts washer cleaned out and some fresh fluid in it so I could clean up the rods and pistons. That all went well but I tell you what, never building an engine in a non climate controlled garage again. Every time I turn on my heater, it "thaws" out the engine so then it's completely covered in condensation and makes a mess and also any bare surface is getting rusty...

That said, I have some problem now once I put in the #8 piston and rod, it was way to hard getting the rod onto the journal, to the point I finally got it slid on, then snugged the cap on and the engine wouldn't even turn over... so going to investigate what the hell is up with that.

In the meantime, the machine shop called me and told me my heads needed completely gone through, including guides and probably some valves.... I knew that bill would be way more than I wanted to spend so I did the right thing and ordered new heads, and not just any heads, the new Fleece cupless heads which are super nice, and no injector cups to worry about. Surprisingly the same price as ordering new GM heads so that was a no brainer.

Checking crank thrust clearance.
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Installing new piston on #7 rod.
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Pistons and rods cleaned up, piston ring gaps checked.
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Started with the new #7 piston then double checked piston protrusion to see what head gaskets I need.

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Then got the rest in.
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And here's my fancy new heads.

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93M6Formula

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Well... Minor setback. Feel like i'm getting nowhere on this engine. I mentioned above that the engine was turning over way too hard, infact it was locked up once the last rod was torqued down and clearly that's an issue. So I pulled a few caps and noticed a few of the bearings were scored on the outer edge where the fillet of the crank is. It was then I realized the rod bearings must have a specific orientation like the mains do and I apparently didn't notice. Doesn't help that the bearing shells aren't labeled 'Upper' & 'Lower' like the mains were... I pulled the #2 and 4 piston and rod out just to get a better look and sure enough, #2 was correct and had no rubbing, #4 was scored. I noticed the bearing halves were a different shade of grey also.

So with that discovery, I double checked my GM shop manual and sure enough, it says right in there that the bearings have a specific location. I grabbed some of the original bearings and saw that one has the locator tang all the way on the edge, the other is offset a little. The manual clearly states that the bearing with the tang on the outer edge goes in the cap, the other in the rod, but when I put them in that way, it puts them in the same wrong position as some of bearings I ruined... it's too close to the bevel. So that made zero sense. On top of that, my new GM bearings don't have the same tang locations, they are both offset so I was even more confused.

So I ended up doing some digging and found that GM revised the rod bearings in 2010 to both have the offset like the new ones I have, okay that's fine, but when I saw the diagram for the installation, it showed both the locations of the old style and new style, and for the old style, it shows the OPPOSITE of what my GM shop manual says... So when I do what that diagram shows, they are correct and aren't binding... I further confirmed this by finding a video of duramax rod bearing installation with Clevite bearings and it was also the same, and they are also labeled 'Upper' & 'Lower'.

Longstory short... My actual GM shop manual has a typo that tells you to do the opposite of whats correct... So even if I read it they would have been wrong anyway. On top of that I would have been confused since GM revised the bearings too, absolutely frustrating. Fortunately it wasn't terribly expensive, just need new rod bolts again and new bearings since most got ruined. Going to pull all the pistons again though and reclean everything since I have assembly lube everywhere and some contamination.

Example of bearings in the wrong location. Left one is supposed to be in the cap, not the rod. Both you can see the scored edges from rubbing on the crank fillet.

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Bearing on #2 was installed correct.

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Old bearing vs new with different tang location.

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GM Shop manual telling me the wrong way to install the bearings.

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Original non offset bearing in the correct location further away from the bevel.

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93M6Formula

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Well, a small update. Got my new rod bearings and cap bolts, I pulled the pistons back out to reclean everything then re-assembled. Spins MUCH easier with the bearings oriented correctly... With that, I could FINALLY move on to getting the bottom end buttoned up, timing gears installed, oil pump and pickup tube, etc.

Started by disassembling the oil pump and cleaning that. I saw this engine run and it had great oil pressure so I saw no reason to spend $230. Checked clearances with my feeler gauges and all was good.

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Pickup tube and pump installed.

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Cam lock plate torqued down and gear installed. Just got a new bolt yesterday for the gear so I can finish installing that.

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Had to get a new oil pump drive gear since the old one was damaged from the crank pin trying to shear off. And of course there was an extra step to this. The reluctor wheel for the crank sensor is bolted to this gear, but you can't just put it on the new gear, it has to "timed" correctly or it will be crooked. This means I had to buy some dowel pins from GM to locate the gear correctly then it can be bolted down. I just got those yesterday as well along with a new balancer bolt.

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GM illustration showing the pins.
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Cleaned all the lifters and retainers in my parts washer. These looked great yet as well so I saw no reason to replace.

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And here's where i'm at. Rotating assembly done, lifters and retainers in. Just need to install the oil pump drive and torque the cam bolt, then it's time for the front and rear covers.

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93M6Formula

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Hoping I can get some less boring updates here soon lol. Cold weather and house projects take a toll on some of this but hoping soon I can get out and finish cleaning up the frame and getting that ready for blasting and powdercoat within the next month or so.
 

93M6Formula

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Another small update. Decided to bite the bullet on head studs, but I went with KB Diesel over ARP, $650+ for studs is just stupid... But I got the heads on and started getting the valvetrain cleaned up and installed.

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1989GMCSIERRA

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Luckily around me we have a pretty good selection of Upullits and junkyards so i'm going to keep my eye on them constantly for interior stuff.

most GMT400s in my area are either hammered or completely stripped by pros the first day out in the yard. I was searching for a single cab behind the bench seat tool tray/storage shelf thing and the cover and they were all gone. I ended up scoring one but it took 7 trips to the yard to get it. Like you when i go I buy trim parts. I figure either I will need it or know someone who will.
 

93M6Formula

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Been a minute since i've updated... Been waiting on parts then I had to wait for warmer weather to get some painting done, then I broke my arm so that slowed things down...

Because of who I am as a person, I couldn't bring myself to use the original crusty CP3 injection pump so I ordered a fresh S&S CP3 and got that installed. Also sent out my PCM at the same time for a tune and delete EGR items.
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New Waterpump, fan pulley, and oil cooler gasket set showed up.
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Oil pan, timing cover, rear plate, and CP3 adapter painted. Need to get the pan installed yet, just haven't got around to it.
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Rear cover and main seal installed.
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Back on the stand.
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Now that i'm getting to the point of the engine being buttoned up, I needed to get back on the frame so I can get that in for blasting and powdercoating, then once it's back I want the engine set in it. So I pulled it out, loaded it up and washed it. With it on the trailer I needed to finish gutting the suspension so I got that mostly done the other day. Front is all out, rear spring bolts are loose so I just need to roll out the axle. Once that's done I need to pull off the rear spring hangers since I have new ones, clean up a few areas and then it's ready to go. That's where i'm at now, it came apart nice but of course the T bars are seized...

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