1995 Silverado K1500 father/son build

[clgodwin79]

From what I looked up;

G80 = posi track/limited slip

GU6 = 3.42 gears

And by jumping to 33’s I should run 3.73’s by my math.


1995 Z71 standard cab stepside
Swapping to 1996 Vortec OBD II

 

[OutlawDrifter]

3.42 to a 3.73 isn't worth the money. 4.10s would play better with the cam and the tire size. Otherwise it will be very anemic in the bottom end.

The link provided earlier gives a recommendation of a 2000+ stall. Which isn't much over stock, but still more.

With the ICL of 112 and the +4 advance ground in, that may make up for the loss in the bottom end.


Over "camming" an engine happens a lot. People want to hear that lope when it idles, it normally comes at the cost of driving like complete doodoo.

 

[clgodwin79]

3.42 to a 3.73 isn't worth the money. 4.10s would play better with the cam and the tire size. Otherwise it will be very anemic in the bottom end.

The link provided earlier gives a recommendation of a 2000+ stall. Which isn't much over stock, but still more.

With the ICL of 112 and the +4 advance ground in, that may make up for the loss in the bottom end.


Over "camming" an engine happens a lot. People want to hear that lope when it idles, it normally comes at the cost of driving like complete doodoo.

I’m sure you’re right and you definitely have more experience than me.

So 4.10s and at least a 2000 stall torque converter. Got it.

What was the factory stall RPM?

I hear you on the cam. So people want the sound of the loping cam even if it robs power and reduces functionality, like too low of vacuum at idle. Hopefully my cam is not in that category.

I know that I explained what I wanted to the machine shop guy in great detail and he spent over an hour on the phone with the guy who ground my cam coming up with what they thought would be the best fit. And my machinist has been building engines, including for his personal race cars for over 30 years. So I have much more faith in his level of knowledge and experience than my own. I just wish he had a done a better job relaying it to me in a way that I could understand and explain.

Thanks a lot for all of your help and opinions!

I definitely won’t be able to finish this thing correctly without the help and experience from all of you guys!


1995 Z71 standard cab stepside
Swapping to 1996 Vortec OBD II

 

[Erik the Awful]

You can run 9.5:1 on 87, especially with fuel injection. I did it in my L98 Z28 Camaro for years, it definitely ran better on 91 however.

On 87 octane my engine at 9.7:1 pings with a load. On 89 octane it pings uphill with a load. On 91 octane it runs fine. Any pinging is bad, and will eventually eat your valve seat, crack a ring, crack spark plug porcelains, or damage your pistons.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I’m sure you’re right and you definitely have more experience than me.

So 4.10s and at least a 2000 stall torque converter. Got it.

What was the factory stall RPM?

I hear you on the cam. So people want the sound of the loping cam even if it robs power and reduces functionality, like too low of vacuum at idle. Hopefully my cam is not in that category.

I know that I explained what I wanted to the machine shop guy in great detail and he spent over an hour on the phone with the guy who ground my cam coming up with what they thought would be the best fit. And my machinist has been building engines, including for his personal race cars for over 30 years. So I have much more faith in his level of knowledge and experience than my own. I just wish he had a done a better job relaying it to me in a way that I could understand and explain.

Thanks a lot for all of your help and opinions!

I definitely won’t be able to finish this thing correctly without the help and experience from all of you guys!


1995 Z71 standard cab stepside
Swapping to 1996 Vortec OBD II

That +4 might make up for the need on the stall converter. An off the shelf 4.3l/4l60e converter for an S10 Blazer would give you a higher stall for OEM replacement price(bumps it about 600rpm give or take), factory is around 1700rpm if I remember correctly. If you're going to spend the money, the 4.10s would be better with the tire choice. I'm sure the guys you're working with put something together that will work for you. If you can avoid a higher stall converter, I recommend doing so on a 4x4 application.

On 87 octane my engine at 9.7:1 pings with a load. On 89 octane it pings uphill with a load. On 91 octane it runs fine. Any pinging is bad, and will eventually eat your valve seat, crack a ring, crack spark plug porcelains, or damage your pistons.

Is timing ECU controlled? If not, pull a few degrees of timing and the ping will go away. Aluminum vs. iron heads will make a difference also.

 

[clgodwin79]

That +4 might make up for the need on the stall converter. An off the shelf 4.3l/4l60e converter for an S10 Blazer would give you a higher stall for OEM replacement price(bumps it about 600rpm give or take), factory is around 1700rpm if I remember correctly. If you're going to spend the money, the 4.10s would be better with the tire choice. I'm sure the guys you're working with put something together that will work for you. If you can avoid a higher stall converter, I recommend doing so on a 4x4 application.







Is timing ECU controlled? If not, pull a few degrees of timing and the ping will go away. Aluminum vs. iron heads will make a difference also.

So then I’ll definitely go with 4.10s. I’m taking the front and rear differentials apart to clean and replace bearings and seals anyway based on the trucks age and mileage. So I’ll already be set to knock out the gears.

Yes, it’s a standard 1996 and later setup, so currently a black box. Since I’m changing the whole truck over from TBI to ‘96 and later Vortec, I’m going to make sure that I can initially get it running off of the black box just so that I know that I’m at a good starting point. Then switch it over to a 411 PCM and find someone to work with me to fine tune everything. Probably Blackbear performance as already recommended by another on here who did something similar. That way I can also delete EGR and VATS and other unwanted stuff. Maybe 1 set of the O2 sensors. Not 100% sure on all of the exact and specific details yet.

And I’m running factory Vortec heads with a basic valve job and stiffer springs but also converted to bolt in rocker studs and cut down valve stem seats along with long slot rocker arms. All of that is so that the factory Vortec heads can handle the more aggressive lift of my new cam.

Maybe I should just call my cam manufacturer and give them all of my specs and see what size gears and what stall torque converter they recommend. Surely they would do that.


1995 Z71 standard cab stepside
Swapping to 1996 Vortec OBD II

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Yes, it’s a standard 1996 and later setup, so currently a black box.

Maybe I should just call my cam manufacturer and give them all of my specs and see what size gears and what stall torque converter they recommend. Surely they would do that.

My second comment was directed at Erik the Awful in regards to the ECU. My buddy had a 460bbf that was 10.5-11:1 in a '78 F150, we were able to pull enough timing to run it on 87oct, definitely not ideal, but kept him from having to put high octane it in for daily driving.

Blackbear does good work. The Black Box ECU in my 454 'burb has their magic in it, and it runs great.


Calling the cam manufacturer would be a great idea, I'm sure they would be happy to give you notes on what to expect.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I agree that you can typically run more compression with fuel injection, and even more if you run aluminum heads. In my experience, iron heads don't like more than 9.5:1, and this was borne out with my truck. There's a hill 1/4 mile from my house, and on 87 or 89 octane it pings climbing the hill. With 91 it's fine. I'm currently running about 32° advance, and I could probably back it down to 10° and run 87 octane, but it'd turn into a real dog. The most important thing is that you avoid pinging. Back in the '70s it was an annoyance, but on more modern engines it's downright destructive.

 

[dyates99]

I put a S&J Engines 383RLB into my '97 Silverado Z71 about a year ago and had Blackbear performance do a mail-order tune for the beast. So far, it looks like everything works just fine, and I'm using this vehicle to tow a GeoPro trailer that weighs about 3500 lbs with no difficulty. Turn-around on the re-programmed engine control module was quick-enough--about a week. Blackbear was easy to work-with, and they can upgrade your tune for very small change after the initial work is done, if you need something more-special.

Currently looking at the 383RLB from s&J. What was the price of yours? Trying to decide between that one and an HT383E. The price from s&j just seems too good to be true.

 

[clgodwin79]

Ok, I know, I fell off of the face of the earth and quit posting.

Because I quit making progress and this project went on hold.

I bought a 2011 VW GTI that had jumped timing and rebuilt that with many many upgrades.

I replaced the timing belt and water pump and a bunch of other stuff in my wife’s Honda Pilot because it recently rolled over 100k miles.

I did a AFM/DOD delete in my daily driver 2007 Silverado because it decided to get a stuck lifter right when I was leaving to make a 3 hour drive to DC. While I was that deep I decided to pull the oil pan and see what it all looked like in there and it looks great. The heads had to come off to replace the lifters. So they got cleaned up and I was able to see that the top end of my truck looks brand new for the mileage. And the cylinders looks great too.

Then I had to pull the dashboard from that same truck a few months later to replace the heater core. And of course, while I was in there, I replaced the A/C core, condenser, compressor, and receiver/dryer since I had to break the boundary of my A/C anyway. And that truck now has a little over 180k on it. So it was due. I also decided to replace the radiator and power steering pump as well. Mostly because the AFM/DOD delete already had me replace the camshaft and timing chain as part of it. So of course I went ahead and replaced the water pump while it was off. That way, now all of the components in my cooling system and A/C system are new. I also had replaced the idler pulley and tensioner pulley as well, but I still have a belt squeal under hard acceleration. And that was after replacing everything that spins with the belt, with the exception of the A/C compressor and power steering pump. So now it’s all new. The belt still squeals!! WTF?!?!

Not to mention that ever since I retired from active duty, my new contracting job for the military has me traveling a LOT.

I actually leave for Washington state on Tuesday and then fly from there to Honolulu so I can groom the LAN/network for 2 submarines that are getting ready to deploy.

I said all of that to say this. Yes, I got derailed on this project, but now I’m back on track and ready to get back to it. Of course now that it’s cold as hell outside.