1994 C3500 Crew Cab Long Bed to K3500 Short Bed Build

[JScott23]

Is the rust that big a deal? Can't you just get an axle blasted, and then paint it? The 14 bolt is a really good axle, but I'd be a bit leery of 407K miles... or will you be getting bearings replaced when you regear?

Mild rust really wouldn't affect the working condition of the axle, just eats at the hard brake lines and eventually causes them to blow. Yeah i could have it blasted, but i have to consider the cost to simply re-gear my rust free one that's original to the truck. Also wouldn't have to disconnect the parking brake cables on mine ether during the swap.

A lot of the axles I've found have been $275-350 which i find a bit high for a rusty axle considering mine is in good rust free condition despite the mileage.

The mileage of my axle doesn't particularly worry me... but if i do keep and re-gear mine, i'll look into everything when its ripped apart for the re-gear. Personally that's the least of my worries, I've never had a single problem with any of my 14 bolt rear axles.

 

[Supercharged111]

Is the rust that big a deal?

C'mon MI man, I think you know the answer here.

 

[mars2878]

more pics

 

[Sparkysikes]

Great thread. Following!

I replaced all my front suspension minus springs and same with rear. Also reheated from 4.56 to 3.73. Great move! When I recarpet I will redo body mounts at same time. Than everything but body and frame will be new. I have a diamond block hummer motor and a new force 2 4l80e

 

[Sparkysikes]

93 c3500 6.5 turbo diesel nv4500 converted to 4l80e and 240k miles.

OH do the sulastic shocks That helped a lot

 

[JScott23]

Had a chance to make some progress. Been ordering parts little by little, it's so close.

Just need Hubs, Rotors, tie rods, and a new steering box.

You must be registered for see images attach

Got the new CV's in, all the control arms are torqued and set, ball joints greased, bed is on, fuel sender and tank are in and bolted down. Rear bumper is on. Getting close.

You must be registered for see images attach

Going to end up using some GMT800 3/4 ton leaf springs. Same amount of springs as what my 1 ton SRW currently has. The shackle part number is the same, they fit and they're here. So we'll use them and keep my CCLB leafs as spares after the swap.

You must be registered for see images attach

Can't say I've ever had a bed in this nice of condition. A detail on the truck and it should look really good.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JScott23]

Another update, installed the transmission and 4wd actuator harness on the chassis.

Outside of a steering box, hubs and tie rods it's ready to go.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

After routing the actuator harness away from all moving front wheel drive parts i realized something.... My current truck and it's wiring was in no way shape or form prepared for a cab swap.

As many of you know, this truck was originally a electronic injected 6.5, and i converted it to a mechanical using an aftermarket trans controller when i was about 19 or 20. Well everything has held up as I've daily driven this truck for the past 7 years. But i left all of the extra pigtails and connectors zip tied out of the way in the engine bay and down by the transmission plugs. (in case i ever wanted to go back to electronic injection)

Well, obviously with a transfer case and a driveshaft all of that excess wiring can't be there. So i decided to do what i should've done when i swapped it years ago. Removed all the excess wiring, connectors, plugs that weren't needed. It really cleaned up the engine bay.

Everything is now fastened the way a factory DB2 truck would've been wired in no excess wiring or plugs. The transmission controller is mounted way up underneath the dash. Nobody would ever know it's there.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I also took this opportunity to re-wire my cab lights (which i installed immediately after buying the truck) and overhead console using heat shrinking rather than butt connectors.

You must be registered for see images attach

Just really got on a roll and re-wired the entire truck really....

You must be registered for see images attach

So overall, now the cab is ready to be swapped once the chassis is fully ready and i have a steady couple weeks to get rides to work. All of the wiring is up to par with the quality i put forth in my Cummins swap so now i can really be comfortable with everything in both trucks wiring wise.


Took a bit of time, but the peace of mind is well worth it.

 

[mars2878]

nice progress

 

[Supercharged111]

So you're telling me a GMT800 leaf pack is bolt in and go? If so I think I may have to go that route on the 1500. The last 2 leaf packs have basically sat on the overload when empty.

 

[JScott23]

So you're telling me a GMT800 leaf pack is bolt in and go? If so I think I may have to go that route on the 1500. The last 2 leaf packs have basically sat on the overload when empty.

The leafs appear to be. They take the same dorman part number as the GMT400 for the rear shackle, and front anchor bolt, and they fit fine on the GMT400 axle perches.

This JUST is the springs themselves. I know the GMT800 axles have different perch width. (or so i'm told) But yes, i haven't seen any reason that would lead me to believe these are not going to work.