1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Swims350

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
4,134
Reaction score
44
Location
Logan Co. WV
after I finally got mine sorted out, the brake fell is much better doesn't travel as far and seems to hold really steady.
 

Trill

Newbie
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
Louisiana
Did anyone ever do a write up for a 95 pick-up? I would like to see pictures of how it was done so I can make sure Im doing mine right. I already have the 88-94 proportioning valve just need to see how they hooked it up. I would appreciate any help
 

Trill

Newbie
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
Louisiana
I copied this from another post that I made. I have done this several times, on 88-94 2wd truck like mentioned you remove the ABS control module and rear abs valve, be sure to keep the proportioning valve though you need it to keep proper brake bias from the front and rear brakes. Anyway run a new piece of line from the rear brake line junction on the frame just below the firewall to the proportioning valve and that's it. For 95+ originally there are 2 independant lines running to each front brake caliper that run directly to the ABS unit, there are 2 way's to deal with this, either unhook the both front lines at the abs unit and install a tee, or what I do is go the salvage yard and buy the front brake lines and proportioning valve off of a 88-94 the front lines on a 88-94 tee together originally so with this method there are no other tee's needed, I can get it all locally for $10. The rear on the 95+ still only uses 1 brake line that runs directly to the abs unit, it can be unhooked and hand rebent to hook up to the 88-94 proportioning valve, or you can just buy a new piece and run it from the junction on the frame under the firewall to the prop. valve. It's not difficult to do at all. Also one interesting note when the power and other plug's are unhooked from the abs unit on the 95+ the abs in dash light does not come on, even though you would think it should.


I have a 88-94 proportioning valve and I see that they have a connection on top of the valve. Do I leave that unplugged when I install it on the 95+? I already have a tee so that I can hook up the front brakes to the proportioning valve. Just not sure about the connections that is on top of the valve.
 

DRAGGIN95

Warranty Killer!
Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
9,977
Reaction score
314
Location
Antioch Arkansas
The 88-94 should have 4 ports to hook up, the 2 underneath that go to the front and rear brakes respectively, and the 2 on the top that hook to the master cylinder, I reuse the 88-94 short prebent lines between the MC and the prop valve.
 

Trill

Newbie
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
Louisiana
The 88-94 should have 4 ports to hook up, the 2 underneath that go to the front and rear brakes respectively, and the 2 on the top that hook to the master cylinder, I reuse the 88-94 short prebent lines between the MC and the prop valve.

I also kept the short prebent lines between the MC and prop valve. I have a tee to tie the front two brake lines together. Just when I pulled the prop valve from the 88-94 they had a wire plugged in between the 2 lines on top that go to the MC. Im just wondering if I have to plug anything in or just leave it with nothing plugged up in my 95
 

///RAGMC

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
2,968
Reaction score
51
Location
Gilbert Az
So would this also work RWAL looks like this?
You must be registered for see images attach
 

DRAGGIN95

Warranty Killer!
Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
9,977
Reaction score
314
Location
Antioch Arkansas
Yes that is already the right prop valve, all you need to do with that is remove the dump valve and ditch the RWAL ECU beside the MC.
 
Top