1988 5.7 hardly drives after CL122494 comp cams install

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TerryKing

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So, did you set the timing and fix your issue yet?
GOTTA be timing.. Had a guy replace my old Yukon distributor and he did the "set TDC" without disconnecting the advance wire. Around the block drive and it DOGGED. Muffler/Cat were HOT! Went back, discussed the right way to time it, he fixed it and I drove off with a powerful truck.

Woulda done the dist myself but it was 2+ feet of snow in Vermont January..
 

Captainfab

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I set my timing dots wrong at first, and cranked it for less then 5 seconds before I resolved the issue and set both dots on the timing gears to the 12 o clock position.


This statement is concerning. I have always set my timing gears dot to dot, never both at 12 O'clock.
 

Slade88

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GOTTA be timing.. Had a guy replace my old Yukon distributor and he did the "set TDC" without disconnecting the advance wire. Around the block drive and it DOGGED. Muffler/Cat were HOT! Went back, discussed the right way to time it, he fixed it and I drove off with a powerful truck.

Woulda done the dist myself but it was 2+ feet of snow in Vermont January..
That makes me feel better, should be an easy fix then
 

CrustyJunker

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Not trying to derail the topic...No one else has had hot headers on engine break-in? I set my distributor 4° advanced for my new cam and my exhaust was furiously hot.
 

The_Family_Tahoe

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Yes. New headers will not respond well to engine break-in. Always use old headers or manifolds before breaking in a new motor if you want to prevent destroying the new header finish.
Not sure if this applies to a simple cam swap in an already tuned and assembled chassis. I've never done a cam swap in the chassis, I typically remove the engine and run it in on a stand.
 

CrustyJunker

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Yes. New headers will not respond well to engine break-in. Always use old headers or manifolds before breaking in a new motor if you want to prevent destroying the new header finish.
Not sure if this applies to a simple cam swap in an already tuned and assembled chassis. I've never done a cam swap in the chassis, I typically remove the engine and run it in on a stand.
I've done several in-chassis break-ins for flat tappet cams. Even with clutch fans and an auxiliary pedestal fan blowing in the engine bay, the exhausts on my builds have always gotten mighty hot - last one with headers got red hot with EFI. The carbureted builds I had done with less advance (under 36° total) didn't get as hot on the exhaust.
 

Slade88

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I've done several in-chassis break-ins for flat tappet cams. Even with clutch fans and an auxiliary pedestal fan blowing in the engine bay, the exhausts on my builds have always gotten mighty hot - last one with headers got red hot with EFI. The carbureted builds I had done with less advance (under 36° total) didn't get as hot on the exhaust.
Ya they were cherry red
 
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