1967 Dodge D100

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0xDEADBEEF

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Could you go a numerically lower rear axle and take advantage of the deep first gear?

Yes, but it's complicated. I've been checking into it, and no one makes numerically lower gears for the center section I have anymore. Higher yes, lower no.

Most likely I will just get a newer center section that they still make gears for (I have an open diff so posi would be a nice upgrade while I'm at it), but they want real money for them. ha.

I think the lowest possible is 2.73. I have 3.55 now.
 

someotherguy

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Agree on the tire diameter. Those tires are ~25.5" in diameter. I did the math for 30" and it's ~20% more speed for the same rpm. That would help bunch.

I did some comparisons and 2nd gear in the NV3500 is pretty close to 1st gear in most manual transmissions. It's kind of a 3 speed with a granny gear and over drive.

I think an axle flip and much bigger tires would go a long way to curing all its problems.
3 speed with granny and overdrive, you're describing an NV4500, which you would really hate. :) THAT'S a "truck" transmission!

Tiny tires definitely having an effect. And yes, flip that axle! More low please

Richard
 

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I found an outfit that makes new spring hangers for the rear leaf. With the new hanger and a longer shackle they claim 5.5" drop. I think that's roughly what an axle flip would net, but I think it will be less work ... I just have to knock out 8 more rivets.

I finally found some doors locally, supposedly complete. My doors are missing a lot of hardware and I have to reach inside and pull the lever on the latch to get out. It's just not cost effective to ship a whole door and individual parts are stupid expensive for what they are, so I've been searching for over a year. I'm optimistic I can get some other stuff off the parts truck, a lower (numerically) geared axle would be a sweet find.
 

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I found an outfit that makes new spring hangers for the rear leaf. With the new hanger and a longer shackle they claim 5.5" drop. I think that's roughly what an axle flip would net, but I think it will be less work ... I just have to knock out 8 more rivets.

I finally found some doors locally, supposedly complete. My doors are missing a lot of hardware and I have to reach inside and pull the lever on the latch to get out. It's just not cost effective to ship a whole door and individual parts are stupid expensive for what they are, so I've been searching for over a year. I'm optimistic I can get some other stuff off the parts truck, a lower (numerically) geared axle would be a sweet find.
I'd suspect you may need some pinion angle shims as well with that much drop. Flip kit sometimes has that engineered-in depending on brand/application. But, if you can get it with shackles, sure? They've gotta be some LOOOOONNNG shackles!

Richard
 

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I'd suspect you may need some pinion angle shims as well with that much drop. Flip kit sometimes has that engineered-in depending on brand/application. But, if you can get it with shackles, sure? They've gotta be some LOOOOONNNG shackles!

Richard

It's a new front hanger and a shackle. Theoretically, the angle won't change because you are moving both ends of the spring up the same amount or close to it. In theory ...
 

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It's a new front hanger and a shackle. Theoretically, the angle won't change because you are moving both ends of the spring up the same amount or close to it. In theory ...
As you drop the truck significantly you flatten out the driveshaft angle which impacts u-joint action. This is why when we drop trucks with flip kits we often end up doing things like carrier bearing spacers on the 2-piece shafts, and sometimes transmission rear mount spacers, stuff like that. Ugly vibrations and premature u-joint failure otherwise.

Richard
 

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I've driven a lot of miles in lifted Jeeps, so I'm familiar with the concepts and solutions, just from the other side of it. Too much angle instead of not enough.

The kit is variable up to 5.5", I can raise it up if something is just unbearable. This is hopefully temporary. Long term I would either like a 4-link or an IRS swap.
 

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Did some measuring. Raising the springs up 5.5" would put the top of the arch of the rear fender just below the top of the back tire. I think it would be pretty level and not a bad short term solution.

There's a local cars and coffee type thing this weekend I would really like to take it to. It's only about 10 miles away, but I'm nervous driving it that far as I haven't put hardly any miles on it yet. I also still have a ton of little things to do.
 

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Did some measuring. Raising the springs up 5.5" would put the top of the arch of the rear fender just below the top of the back tire. I think it would be pretty level and not a bad short term solution.

There's a local cars and coffee type thing this weekend I would really like to take it to. It's only about 10 miles away, but I'm nervous driving it that far as I haven't put hardly any miles on it yet. I also still have a ton of little things to do.
I'd expect shackles that are part of a shackle/hanger package that can drop you 5.5", would likely have a couple of lesser-drop positions drilled into them as well. Got a link, or pic? If the 5.5" is too much you could adjust that way, or simply choose a slightly taller rear tire if you don't mind not running square fitment.

Richard
 

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I'd expect shackles that are part of a shackle/hanger package that can drop you 5.5", would likely have a couple of lesser-drop positions drilled into them as well. Got a link, or pic? If the 5.5" is too much you could adjust that way, or simply choose a slightly taller rear tire if you don't mind not running square fitment.

Richard

Yep there are 4 options. (I think the pic is actually upside down.)

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