1967 Dodge D100

0xDEADBEEF

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Driver's side is good and strong. Passenger side is only attached with the 3 water pump bolts which isn't enough. ICT makes a bracket I need to buy to add some more attachment to the block. As expected the water pump is too far out now. The main pulley might work, it's right on the edge, but the tensioner pulley is too far out. I carved out a space in my carboard for the alternator and it took out too much metal to be safe IMO. I'll probably order a high mount bracket from ICT while I'm getting the other bracket I need.

I need to fab some brackets that attach the plate to the frame.

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GrimsterGMC

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It's great to see you thinking outside of the box so i am sorry if I come across as criticizing your work because that's not my intention but with the two side plates being separate you are going to get a twisting motion as the motor tries to move up and down due to the bolts being slightly smaller diameter than the holes. This will destroy your water pump gaskets in no time. Is there a way that you can continue the plates under the crank pulley making it one solid brace from side to side then the bolts will only be resting at the bottom of the holes. There is a possibility that the torsional twist of the plate will shear the bolts off as well.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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It's great to see you thinking outside of the box so i am sorry if I come across as criticizing your work because that's not my intention but with the two side plates being separate you are going to get a twisting motion as the motor tries to move up and down due to the bolts being slightly smaller diameter than the holes. This will destroy your water pump gaskets in no time. Is there a way that you can continue the plates under the crank pulley making it one solid brace from side to side then the bolts will only be resting at the bottom of the holes. There is a possibility that the torsional twist of the plate will shear the bolts off as well.

No offense taken. There are 2 15mm bolts on the side of the block which are probably doing all the work. I still have a bracket to attach on the passenger side to accomplish the same thing there.

This is a standard drag racing thing and not my original idea. The correct way to run the motor plate includes a mid plate that is sandwiched between the motor and trans, but I am not going to run one because I don't want to have mess with shimming the throw out bearing. If/when I blow the NV3500 up I'll do it correctly with the new trans.

Most people don't use a mechanical water pump with a motor plate, but I feel like being different. This is my touring/drag-and-drive truck and I would like to be able to fix it with parts I can find at any auto parts store. (As much as possible anyway.) If it ends up being too prone to leaks, I'll run a remote electric water pump.

I have some ideas for more bracing that incorporate the QA1 crossmember. The OE motor mount location is directly on top of that cross member. It should tie the whole front frame together nicely.


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0xDEADBEEF

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I bought a $200 plasma cutter because I was thinking it would be easier than a cut off wheel or sawzall to remove the plates I welded in. It wasn't. It's good up to about 1/8" after that it just makes a messy cut that tends to fuse back together when all the dross flows into itself on the backside or gap.

Current state of the project. I need to find some clearance between the radiator and intake piping.


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0xDEADBEEF

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Got a few things done today: fuel injectors, alternator, BOV flange (booger welded, but it ain't coming off and only leaks a little bit, LOL)

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You may not be able to tell but I also shifted the motor over an inch to the passenger side. Super easy with these motor plates. It's a lot less angle to the pinion now.



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0xDEADBEEF

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I think I got like 3 things done this weekend and none of them should have taken more than 30 minutes to do. Kind of a bummer.

The hotside is finally complete since my order from Huron Speed came in. Took me forever to get the v-bands clamped on without mangling the copper gasket. Good looking kit. I don't know what they put on the crossover tube, but I don't really care for it. No one is going to see it though.

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I got the oil lines for the turbo in. -4 in and -10 out.

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I found this doohicky at ICT to use the factory oil level sensor hole for the return. I'm a little worried it's too low and I might get oil backing up the return line, but I'll have to see.
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I've decided I'm just going to get a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood for the bed and cut it to length and bolt it down to the bed cross members. It will leave a couple open spots at the corners, but if it bothers me I can cover them with something. Heckovalot cheaper than a wood bed kit and is more fitting IMO.

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Orpedcrow

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I think I got like 3 things done this weekend and none of them should have taken more than 30 minutes to do. Kind of a bummer.

The hotside is finally complete since my order from Huron Speed came in. Took me forever to get the v-bands clamped on without mangling the copper gasket. Good looking kit. I don't know what they put on the crossover tube, but I don't really care for it. No one is going to see it though.

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I got the oil lines for the turbo in. -4 in and -10 out.

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I found this doohicky at ICT to use the factory oil level sensor hole for the return. I'm a little worried it's too low and I might get oil backing up the return line, but I'll have to see.
You must be registered for see images attach


I've decided I'm just going to get a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood for the bed and cut it to length and bolt it down to the bed cross members. It will leave a couple open spots at the corners, but if it bothers me I can cover them with something. Heckovalot cheaper than a wood bed kit and is more fitting IMO.

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For the longest time I thought 4x8 plywood beds were factory in old trucks. I saw a “nice” truck at a car meet and thought the “hardwood flooring” was kinda odd looking :rotflmao:
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Stupid fuel cell has 1" of water in it. I may have to rethink the whole fuel cell in the bed idea, but it might be ok if I build that enclosure. I'm glad I found out now though.
 

618 Syndicate

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Where's the water getting in at?? That's a huge problem because if water is getting in, fuel vapor will get out.


Also as long as the return line enters the pan below the level it exits the turbo you're good. How much drop isn't important, you just don't want it to gravity feed back into the housing.
 
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