1967 Dodge D100

0xDEADBEEF

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So, I got one leg of each mount burned in. The welds are ugly per usual, but I beat on the tabs with a hammer and was able to bend them without breaking the weld, so they're stronger than the base metal. I also stood on each one and bounced up and down. Don't know what that dynamic load is, but I'm 280 so probably a good deal more than that.


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0xDEADBEEF

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Any welders out there care to verify if this block is really salvageable? This crack here would steer me away from using it.

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The more I looked at this weekend, from a bunch more angles being all up close and personal ... it's probably not repairable, at least not cost effectively.

If it was the last factory 6.2 block on earth and you had the time and money, I think it could be done.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I finally got the motor mounts burned in. The more I welded the better looking my welds became. Probably should have practiced for a couple days on scrap first. I'm going to cut a groove in the frame where the boxing plate is on each side and run some beads there to ensure full penetration. If you can't weld good, weld a lot.

Plan is to bolt the trans to the empty block and determine transmission crossmember placement. I did some testing already and the transdapt pre-fabbed thing is just barely wide enough to work between the frame rails, but the 2" drop may not be enough. One wrinkle I didn't think about is the mopar 8 3/4 diff has the pinion offset to the passenger side a pretty good bit, and my motor is placed as close to the center line as I could make it. Will have to see what the angle comes out to be. I think the driveshaft will be a good deal longer than the original so that should help.

Anyway, I hope to get all that done this weekend and get the front part of the frame cleaned up and painted. I got some rust encapsulating stuff. Not going to bother with getting it perfect. Get all the loose debris off and brush it on. Should last another 55 years.
 

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I finally got the motor mounts burned in. The more I welded the better looking my welds became. Probably should have practiced for a couple days on scrap first. I'm going to cut a groove in the frame where the boxing plate is on each side and run some beads there to ensure full penetration. If you can't weld good, weld a lot.

Plan is to bolt the trans to the empty block and determine transmission crossmember placement. I did some testing already and the transdapt pre-fabbed thing is just barely wide enough to work between the frame rails, but the 2" drop may not be enough. One wrinkle I didn't think about is the mopar 8 3/4 diff has the pinion offset to the passenger side a pretty good bit, and my motor is placed as close to the center line as I could make it. Will have to see what the angle comes out to be. I think the driveshaft will be a good deal longer than the original so that should help.

Anyway, I hope to get all that done this weekend and get the front part of the frame cleaned up and painted. I got some rust encapsulating stuff. Not going to bother with getting it perfect. Get all the loose debris off and brush it on. Should last another 55 years.
Why not swap a different axle in?
 
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