12200411 PCM swap for 1996 to 2000 GMT400 trucks

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Gonzo406

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Hola gmt400 fellas. I just finished my 411 swap and I have a question. I've searched and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for and I didn't want to clutter this section with another 411 question so I'm posting here hoping to get some help. Long story short I finish my swap go to start my truck and it barely runs. I go through every wire and realized that my egr wire was in the wrong spot. I fix it and truck seems to run normal. I get the usual crank relearn code so I head down to a local shop and have it done. I drive it in the city for a couple days and check engine light stays off. I' thinking I'm home free but yesterday I get on the highway and I notice that my truck shakes pretty bad between 55-65ish mph under light acceleration. If I floor it past those speeds it runs normal all through the RPM range. I've checked every wire again and they're all correctly placed. It's not a wheel balance or driveshaft issue. It almost feels like it runs out of fuel unless I floor it. I replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi unit about 500 miles before the swap and it ran perfect until then. Any ideas? Could it be the tune isn't 100% set up correctly?
 

Mangonesailor

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Hola gmt400 fellas. I just finished my 411 swap and I have a question. I've searched and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for and I didn't want to clutter this section with another 411 question so I'm posting here hoping to get some help. Long story short I finish my swap go to start my truck and it barely runs. I go through every wire and realized that my egr wire was in the wrong spot. I fix it and truck seems to run normal. I get the usual crank relearn code so I head down to a local shop and have it done. I drive it in the city for a couple days and check engine light stays off. I' thinking I'm home free but yesterday I get on the highway and I notice that my truck shakes pretty bad between 55-65ish mph under light acceleration. If I floor it past those speeds it runs normal all through the RPM range. I've checked every wire again and they're all correctly placed. It's not a wheel balance or driveshaft issue. It almost feels like it runs out of fuel unless I floor it. I replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi unit about 500 miles before the swap and it ran perfect until then. Any ideas? Could it be the tune isn't 100% set up correctly?
Check your fuel pressure. Maybe the regulator is going.
 
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I'm doing something a little different and need a little advise.

I have a 0411 and I have a 1997 454, 4L80E from a suburban but I don't have a harness.

1) can I just purchase a harness made for a LS swap to use with my computer?
2) I assume I also need to purchase all the sensors from say, a 2000 model Camaro?
3) will these sensors fit my Vortec 454 intake?
4) will I also need to purchase LS Camaro injectors? If so will they fit the Vortec 454 intake without leaking?

This is not going in a Chevy truck so most of the info on this thread about conversions don't apply.

Thank you for the help, Josh
 

rigsboo

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97 silverado 5.7 5 speed...I replaced the following
411 swap
Mpfi injectors
Throttle body mod
Gutted cats
New fuel pump and screen
New fuel filter
My issue is my truck wont rev past 2000-2500 rpms then when it gets to that it bogs down extremely low where it almost dies then idles back up...what could it be
 

Scarbro

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Would anyone be able to help me with a wiring issue in my 1997 Chevy c2500 std cab with a 7.4BB and 4l80e. The engine management wiring harness was shot so after a pretty long hunt for a good used wiring harness I purchased the only one I could find in months, I got it off of EBay for $200 The vehicle it came off of was a 2000 c3500 with 7.4BB and a 4l80e, the harness was in pretty good condition besides I had to splice a new park neutral switch pigtail onto it and also a new transmission range selector pigtail and 2 new Ground terminals besides that everything looked good, anyhow I installed the wiring harness and found a few concerns as far as compatibility. The first is that the connectors for the 02 sensors are completely different so can I spice them into the old connectors? The second concern is that the part of the harness that goes into the passenger side of the cab And plugs in behind the glove box (I’m guessing its for the heater/ac) but it also isn’t compatible with my trucks original connectors, My next concern is the oil pressure sender switch on my truck it was originally a 3 wire pigtail and on the new harness it’s a 1 wire oil pressure sender switch. My Main concern is that the truck starts and idles alright but develops a bad miss fire if I rev the engine up and runs terrible under any acceleration. At this point I’m guessing there has to be some differences in the pinouts for the computer and that’s why it’s not running right, If anyone have any Advice or experience in something like this it would be much appreciated! Thanks
 

AK49BWL

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Would anyone be able to help me with a wiring issue in my 1997 Chevy c2500 std cab with a 7.4BB and 4l80e. The engine management wiring harness was shot so after a pretty long hunt for a good used wiring harness I purchased the only one I could find in months, I got it off of EBay for $200 The vehicle it came off of was a 2000 c3500 with 7.4BB and a 4l80e, the harness was in pretty good condition besides I had to splice a new park neutral switch pigtail onto it and also a new transmission range selector pigtail and 2 new Ground terminals besides that everything looked good, anyhow I installed the wiring harness and found a few concerns as far as compatibility. The first is that the connectors for the 02 sensors are completely different so can I spice them into the old connectors? The second concern is that the part of the harness that goes into the passenger side of the cab And plugs in behind the glove box (I’m guessing its for the heater/ac) but it also isn’t compatible with my trucks original connectors, My next concern is the oil pressure sender switch on my truck it was originally a 3 wire pigtail and on the new harness it’s a 1 wire oil pressure sender switch. My Main concern is that the truck starts and idles alright but develops a bad miss fire if I rev the engine up and runs terrible under any acceleration. At this point I’m guessing there has to be some differences in the pinouts for the computer and that’s why it’s not running right, If anyone have any Advice or experience in something like this it would be much appreciated! Thanks

Looking at the differences in the wiring diagrams between the two trucks, I can tell you right now the Injector 8 and 1 trigger wires are in the wrong place now. On your truck, Inj 8 should be Connector 1 Pin 5, on the 2000 it's Connector 2 Pin 9... Which on the 97 is for the A/C compressor clutch trigger. Inj 1 is C2 P3 on yours, the 2000 has it at C2 P8. Sooo, that explains the rough accel, you're literally only running on 6 cylinders. I'm sure that's just scratching the surface, but that's what immediately stood out to me on looking at the diagrams.


EDIT:: Okay, I had some time.
You'll need to pop the PCM connectors and move the following in your 2000 harness to match the 1997 system

Move C2 Pin 8 to C2 Pin 3 for Injector 1
Move C2 Pin 9 to C1 Pin 5 for Injector 8
Move C3 Pin 1 to C2 Pin 9 for A/C Compressor Clutch Relay Control (if equipped)
Move C4 Pin 9 to C4 Pin 6 for Aux Fan Relay Control (if equipped)

Most everything else is where it should be, save for the EVAP system controls... 98+ used a different system from the 97s and I'm not entirely certain how you'd go about changing that up. Oh and the wire colors are all the same for the o2 sensors, so you should be able to splice/re-pin those without much issue. The sensors themselves are all the same I am fairly certain. As for the cab connector, that one's a bit more complicated and I don't feel I can help much there... I would say most of the wiring colors should be the same between trucks, but again, it's kind of a "splice at your own risk" sorta deal lol.. All that goes into the cab from the PCM as far as I can tell is HVAC and instrument cluster stuff (gauges, SES light, etc). The oil pressure sender on the 97 is also a secondary fuel pump switch of sorts for in case the relay goes out, I guess. The 2000 doesn't have the switch (or if it does, it is not used), it is used as a gauge sender only - this is why the 3-to-1 wire discrepancy.

Wiring diagrams used: http://www.ak49bwl.com/other/GMT400/2000to1997

Also, my master 0411 Pinout sheet for those who may be interested... Specific model years are not complete, only 1997 5.7 and the 0411 sheet are really complete in any way. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JjZFvFzPGeJjk3QkSE9EllLNZP2gRbO5gjkx0oTnQ8o/edit?usp=sharing


USE ALL THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR PROBLEMS (but there really shouldn't be any)
 
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Stepside_fever95

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Can anyone provide pictures of how they ran their wiring for the transmission signals? I'd like to do it from my gauges if possible but I can't figure out how that plug runs.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
 
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