10bolt to 14 bolt swap help

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heavychevy98

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oh yea for some reason i read that wrong. I remember this being a ***** on mine as well like you said its just not quite enough room to get both clips in. Keep working at it, with enough coercing you'll get it. I think I shaved a few thousands of an inch off my clips.

I run into this issue on big trucks and its because after driving joints in and out, the yolk ears become bent in slightly. Put your yolk with the ears at 12&6 (ie: up and down) and hang the top ear on a bench or something solid and use a bar or big punch and hammer and go thru the top hole and drive the bottom ear down to spread them slightly.
 

94rbp1500

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i got a hold of him, he got the 448 joint now which is a 1330/1350 joint and its all together, the steel shafts are a 1330 joint where the aluminum is 1344 joint

i don't see how its possible yours fit dcz71as a truck 10 bolt never had a 1350 yoke, only 1330 or 1344 series yoke, car 10 bolt had a 1350 in some of the late 60's early 70's




so, I'm swapping and have the 1 peice aluminum ds and a 6 lug 14 bolt sf. I'm gonna need the 1344 joint right?
 

94rbp1500

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447 caps fit the rear fine... but caps are too big for the driveshaft.. Is the 448 for the aluminum ds?...
 

gunz

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And there are plenty of people grinding down the u bolt plates for them to work on SF axles.

There are people grinding the backbone off brake calipers to clear smaller wheels, It isnt right either.

There is a right way, and a hack way to do just about everything. If you have to use hack temporarily to get by, So be it, but do it right as soon as you can.
 

Jorge6.5

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Im about to this same swap in my truck due to blowing the 10 bolt. My truck has the steel driveshaft.

The donor 14 bolt sf had an aluminum driveshaft, I'm pretty sure.

From my understanding I will need the 448 u joint?

Can someone confirm for sure?

Thanks
 
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