100 DEGREE TEMP, WRECKED ENGINE??

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LVJJJ

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Turns out it was the idle control valve, or something like that, makes sense, wouldn't idle.

Also found out that have a couple of exhaust leaks between headers and head, probably bad gaskets that came with the headers. Any recommendations as to what brand of gaskets I should get for headers????????? sooo many choices now.

As for GoToGuy comment, engine never got over 200 degrees, most of the time stayed at 195 which is the temp of the thermostat that's in there. Clutch fan would kick in around 195 and made quick reduction in temp. That's not overheating.
 

GoToGuy

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I'm planning on doing some ceramic coated headers for the Tahoe with the 383, so I was going to go with Percy's carbon fiber high heat gaskets. And before install double check flanges with straight edge. Thats the plan anyway. I'm seeing these as a better engineered product for the environment they function in.
 

GoToGuy

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Turns out it was the idle control valve, or something like that, makes sense, wouldn't idle.

Also found out that have a couple of exhaust leaks between headers and head, probably bad gaskets that came with the headers. Any recommendations as to what brand of gaskets I should get for headers????????? sooo many choices now.

As for GoToGuy comment, engine never got over 200 degrees, most of the time stayed at 195 which is the temp of the thermostat that's in there. Clutch fan would kick in around 195 and made quick reduction in temp. That's not overheating.
Thats not what i said. You stated it never got hot except when climbing. Your quoting and stating numbers then switch to a vague description of " hot ". Your suburban has a basic engine cooling system that is the same through 1995. The only difference is how many core rows and if the engine oil cooler is used or installed. How do you know when the thermostat clutch engages on the radiator fan and at what temperature? At lower speeds you may be correct in removing Inner fenderwells or splash guards, those are two different parts if you did not know. Air flows and movements aren't as simple as you think. But if makes you feel good, it's a great day.
 

LVJJJ

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GTG, good comments. Feels real good, its all working good, I lucked out. Last summer and this I took the splash guards and that rock guard or whatever under the radiator out and both times we ran in 100 degree weather. Like I said, never overheated or got too hot. You can hear the clutch fan come on, it makes a big loud roar, love to hear it, cools the rad right down quick, only runs for 3 or 4 minutes. This Burb has the trailer towing package with a huge radiator which I replaced last year, a trans cooler, which I upgraded last year, an oil cooler, and even though its a half ton everything seems to be real beefy. heavy 1/2 ton maybe. Anyway with the 383 its a great tow vehicle
 

LVJJJ

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As for the ticking on start up, my local dealer did evaluate it and said there are exhaust leaks from both headers, which I suspected. But that the ticking or knocking noise when its cold has to do with the longer stroke from the different crankshaft used to create the 383 that kinda throws the geometry of the pistons & rods a little out of kilter so you get some noise. They said they have another 383 that they service does the same thing. I had been worried as the exhaust leaks had been making it sound like the knocking kept going even when hot. Wasn't sure about the header leaks as it didn't make that little tsst-tsst sound when idleing.
So got some Rimflex gaskets (made here in Washington btw) and boy did that make a difference. Nice and quiet (except for loud Magnaflow exhaust) when it gets up to temp. The original gaskets that came with the headers were blown out in several places, really cheap gaskets. With the replacement of the idle control valve, everything is great. Thanks for the comments.
 

Schurkey

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the ticking or knocking noise when its cold has to do with the longer stroke from the different crankshaft used to create the 383 that kinda throws the geometry of the pistons & rods a little out of kilter so you get some noise.
No.

The "geometry" is not "a little out of kilter".

You're being lied-to.
 

L31MaxExpress

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No.

The "geometry" is not "a little out of kilter".

You're being lied-to.
No but piston skirt design and piston material can create piston slap in a cold engine. I have forged pistons in my 383 and 6" rods. I lucked out and it does not piston slap to the point where you hear it on a cold start. Every 5.3 in the world on the other hand sounds like a diesel.
 

Schurkey

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There was a GM-bashing website called "www.pistonslap.com". It's been defunct for years--but they told the truth about GM engine knocking noises from the 1990s. Both my Mid-90s Lumina 3.4L knocked like a bad joke.

Excessively short skirts are great on attactive women. There's problems when they're fitted to pistons.
 

Erik the Awful

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But that the ticking or knocking noise when its cold has to do with the longer stroke from the different crankshaft used to create the 383 that kinda throws the geometry of the pistons & rods a little out of kilter so you get some noise.
I'll put a third confirmation here - they're lying to you. Piston slap is a sign of sloppy machine work. If it's still under warranty, they need to replace it on their dime.
 
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