10 Bolt to 14 Bolt

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shovelbill

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3/4 ton 6 lug 14B was direct connection with conversion u-joint into my half ton suburban dirveshaft. No shortening required. Remember you'll only see a braking upgrade if your truck is not already equipped with the JB6 brakes. I swapped because I didn't want my engine/converter/transmission combination to eat any more rear ends; they made mincemeat out of the 10 bolt.

and how're you good sir?
 

shovelbill

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Ahh, doing well; thank you. May I assume as well the same for you, my good sir?
lol ... Indeed. Being on this side of the dirt, suckin air, is generally regarded as a good thing.

I only blew up one 10 bolt.....in my '86 K5 on 35's........happened to be the only truck that I didn't swap my 12 bolt into....and that one had a Moroso Super Brute L/S unit in the pumpkin.

I'm glad this thread came up......get's my "truck brain" working again
 

slowburb

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lol ... Indeed. Being on this side of the dirt, suckin air, is generally regarded as a good thing.

I only blew up one 10 bolt.....in my '86 K5 on 35's........happened to be the only truck that I didn't swap my 12 bolt into....and that one had a Moroso Super Brute L/S unit in the pumpkin.

I'm glad this thread came up......get's my "truck brain" working again

Glad to hear it shovel.


So I think unanswered as of yet still is the difference between a FF and SF axle. It concerns how the axles and bearings and hubs are situated, which directly affects weight carrying capacity.

And yes GM made trucks with and without the G80 traction aiding option, which in this case is the Gov-lock setup. It isnt a posi. It has no clutches like a posi does. It senses slippage by axle speed difference left to right and locks. The one they put in the half tons was made for much lighter smaller vehicles and is known to fail. The 9.5 and 10 5 inch units are pretty strong. Otherwise a truck would have an open carrier in it, or as you may know a pegleg, one wheel peel, one wheel wonder, one wheel drive, etc.


Rereading the thread yes I did need u bolts. Also just remembered I couldn't put my anti sway bar back on but this was on a suburban, which as I eluded to before as having JB6 brakes already.
 

96z71sas

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Hey just how much play should these 14 bolt have when going from reverse to drive mine makes a clug noise too can I tell if rear end gears worn out without pulling cover I pulled plug no oil came out but I felt sum with my finger
 

mars2878

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Hey just how much play should these 14 bolt have when going from reverse to drive mine makes a clug noise too can I tell if rear end gears worn out without pulling cover I pulled plug no oil came out but I felt sum with my finger


Does yours have 2 plugs??

If yes, then oil should've come out when you removed the lower plug. If it didnt, then you've got problems.

Oil will not come out of the top plug as its filled to the bottom of that plug. You should be able to feel the oil right @ the bottom of the hole. If it's down a little, then top off.
 

Kyle89

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The 14BFF is definitely the stronger and highest weight rated of the two, however it only came in 8 lug.

The 9.5 14B semi float is a good axle and being 6 lug it makes life simpler. I assume a conversion u joint is available for your driveshaft. I’d snag the spring plates and e brake brackets and cable just to be safe. Personally, I would also use new u joints.

When I was young and dumb I had a Suburban with the 9.5 14B on the 35’s. The truck had the Govloc and I beat the hell out of it without issues.

They also make a 8 lug to 6 lug conversion for the ff if your like me and wanna keep your 6 lug rims because 8 lugs are hard to find cheap aftermarket
 

randomguy

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Hey just how much play should these 14 bolt have when going from reverse to drive mine makes a clug noise too can I tell if rear end gears worn out without pulling cover I pulled plug no oil came out but I felt sum with my finger

No oil coming out of the fill plug doesn’t really mean anything, either add oil until it comes out of the plug or pull the cover.

If you get a loud metallic clank shifting from drive to reverse you have a bad u joint or 3. U joints are easy.
 
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3/4 ton 6 lug 14B was direct connection with conversion u-joint into my half ton suburban dirveshaft. No shortening required. Remember you'll only see a braking upgrade if your truck is not already equipped with the JB6 brakes. I swapped because I didn't want my engine/converter/transmission combination to eat any more rear ends; they made mincemeat out of the 10 bolt.
No, I have the JB5 10" rear brakes. So When I swap in the rear end, The only thing I'll need (From what I understand) is just a conversion U-Joint? Not U bolts (or plates) or that combination (proportioning valve)
 
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