I got an 8" drop one around here somewhere...if the shorty I have on there now doesn't lift it back up enough. The trailer is low-slung with a rise at the tongue. Having a low hitch point makes matters worse. At stock height...the trailer bottom was pretty much level. Sounds like I might...
It wasn't a case of sagging...it was a case of the trailer hitch bar being a 2-3" drop one plus the 4" I lowered the rear. Now the bar is flipped the other way...so at least the hitch ball is back even with the bumper.
All I am towing is a 1500# capacity 5x8 trailer...and I can load it so to...
Looks a lot like my setup...except I stopped at a 2/4 drop. It sits dead level and is plenty low enough for my taste. I just had to flip my trailer hitch...first time I have towed since I lowered it, and the trailer tongue rest was almost hitting the ground. But it tows fine still...
Yep...but that's what helps keep the near stock ride quality. The progressive Moogs load up nicely when they compress. Most impressive change is that the truck stays almost flat under heavy braking...no more nose dive.
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2/4...DJM arms with Moog progressive springs up front, DJM hangers and shackles out back. 275/60-15's on 15x8 5-lug truck rally wheels...
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Clearly...you know everything about what runs in everything, so I will bow to your infinite wisdom and bow out of this conversation. And you know...you are 100% right about a marine cam working well with EFI. Of course it would...since marine cams have little or no overlap.
This...100% truth. A lumpy cam in a low-compression engine = a DOG when driven on the street. I plan on building a 406 to replace my aging 350...but even then, it will have a mild cam that taps out about 5400 rpms. But the 406 will produce something like 450-460hp and 500-520ft-lbs with my...
This is my plan when and if the stock 350 on my 1992 RCSB goes south. I'd probably start with the Dart block and go from there. Dart fixes the oiling system issues in their blocks. Plan as it stands is to build a TPI fed 406 with an emphasis on low-midrange power.
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An update on the brake cable issues. I looked at the front cables and determined a couple of things:
1. The cable at the pedal was slightly bound. Fixed that.
2. And I believe the cable under the cab just needs a huge adjustment to work just fine. The adjuster rod has plenty of room to...
The stance of that looks like the stance of my truck before I lowered it...except the nose was lower and the butt was higher on mine...[emoji21]
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Mine is similar...my truck is a 2-owner (me...and my FIL before me) original paint (what's left of it) truck. It was originally a courtesy vehicle for the 1992 Buick Open here in ATL. Even now it only has 133K at 28 years old. My FIL retired from the Doraville GM plant in the parts hub...the...
Thanks! Completion of a vision... I've owned the truck for almost 15 years. I always wanted to do it this way. And it's finally done...err...almost done.
I really had little choice on the leafs. The only rusty parts on the whole truck. Plus the OEM rubber bushings were completely wasted...
Good...well, good for me. No vibes from the rear at any speed up to 65. Truck feels way more solid. Still need to determine what is going on with the parking brake...but more and more I suspect the front cable is broken or not connected. Messed with it some tonight...discovered that the...
Add that I am glad to see a rousing endorsement of the Flaming River U-joint...since I just ordered one for my 1992 C1500. Hope it takes care of the nasty 1/8-turn dead spot each side of dead center. That slop makes it hard to make minor adjustments when my lowered truck starts tram-lining on...
It will remove SOME play in the steering box, since that adjuster screw modifies the engagement pattern on the gears in the box. But even just a little too far in can (and usually does) create a binding situation in the gearbox...and then you have what RichLo was referring to...catastrophic...
Thanks for the reply.
I am racking my noodle. Doesn't make sense...I could understand the rear cables being a little whacked, but the front ones have me stumped as well because not much change under the cab.
I have a thought...perhaps the cable popped off the pedal while I was relocating the...
Got my 2/4 drop installed this past weekend...it's great so far except for one problem. Alignment is good...new tire setup is good...no vibrations thus far (whew). BUT...something happened to my front e-brake cables. Either they are now stretched...or something in the geometry changed a TON...
Got my drop installed this past weekend...it's great so far except for one problem. Alignment is good...new tire setup is good...no vibrations thus far (whew). BUT...something happened to my front e-brake cables. Either they are now stretched...or something in the geometry changed a TON...
The tensioner is supposed to move a little...but it does sound like the bearing is going in the tensioner pulley and/or idler pulley. Mine made a similar noise until I replaced those 2 parts.
But I don't think that is all the noise. I do agree with the previous post about the ticking being...
I am about to do this to my '92 RCSB. I went with DJM 2" LCA's, stock height springs and shocks in the front. I went with their shackle/hanger kit in the back. Belltech shocks as recommended by Sewlow. All new springs front and rear...Moog in the front, ATS stock replacement in the rear...
I have run into this, but not on my truck. As previously stated, if the stud is even with the outside face of the nut once it is torqued, you are GTG.
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