Yes one piece aluminum driveshaft. 155k they were def replaced at some point. I have no problem putting u joints in because I know I have a slight pinion seal leak so that’s getting fixed in the near future.
I’m dying to know what happened here. Let’s see if I can resurrect this! I have seemingly the same issue (99c1500 suburban). I have replaced the rear wheel bearings and hasn’t really changed anything. Now I haven’t don’t anything else to remedy this but really don’t have the time or $ to just...
key is not in ignition. However that does give me an idea. Did these keys come factory with a chip? I know a lot of people hide a key in the steering console somewhere near the ignition to trigger the chip then get any old key to work. I know for a fact I’ve been using plain keys in this.
I’ve had my 99 c1500 suburban for a year or so now. At first the passenger side locks didn’t work. I replaced the front passenger actuator and just lubed the the lock rods and assembly in the rear door which made it work fine.
the issue: if you hit the drivers door switch…everything works as is...
My issue has been resolved. I cut the green wire out and replaced it all the way back. Made sure the ground was still good at the back... turns out the circuit board at the light was bad. Took swapping them around a bit to get a combo that worked. Those things are crap quality so check them...
So I’m having the same issue on my 93. Noticed the lt grn wire from the taillights is fried all the way to some sort of junction box on the fire wall below the hydro booster. I’m still investigating but at a loss as if now