I’m using the 96 harness to read the sensors to my gauges. The ls harness only runs the engine once it’s started. I put an adapter on the block to read oil pressure on the back of the block(the ls ecm doesn’t need it). I used an adapter on the passenger head to read coolant temp (the ls ecm uses...
I just printed out the stuff from LT1 swap on google. Traced everything down and it was pretty simple. My Speedo still doesn’t work because I need another vss signal but it’s been working great
Btw I didn’t just slap those rusty knuckles on. I disassembled them, vapor degrease, abrasive blast with 180 grit, ream the top ball joint hole, zinc nickel plated both, painted black, reassembled and mounted.
So I decided to do the nbs brake knuckle upgrade because I run into brake fade and molten hot rotors every time I do some spirited driving. Last time I tried to slow down from over 130mph I warped both the tiny drilled and slotted rotors. The back hold up fine but since they are disc conversion...
I didn’t make the mounts. I just used an Escalade rear end with the mounts built onto it already. The first time I installed the sway bar I used exhaust clamps on the axle. It won’t let me post the pics I have so I’ll try again in a few.
So it’s been a while and I decided to build a nice unit before my oem one craps out. It’s a 4l65e and I’m rebuilding it with a nice kit and I also just finished rebuilding a transfer case. I’ll mount the two when the weather gets better or I can move things around in the garage to do it indoors
Good to know. My 408 was at 503 before the detune. Right now it’s dialed in with a tbss cam for a nice DD. So far my setup has been great but next weak link will be the trans/transfer case. I might modify a support to run a 6l80e or 4l80E. Whichever route I go it will have to keep 4x4
I sent the harness out using a service on eBay. They removed all unnecessary wiring and flash the ecu according to my mods and request. I removed the vats(vehicle anti theft system) rear o2 and emissions.
Removed the front diff and replaced it with a low mile unit from an Escalade. I replaced the stub axle bearings and seals while it was out. Reason for swap was the new rear end is 3.73 and the old front was 3.42
I used a late gmt400 suburban sway bar. I think it was like a 98. All I needed was the frame brackets and made my own mounts on the axle. I used a 99 Escalade rear end later on and installed the true trac in it.the Escalade rear had the mounts already from factory
I used a late gmt400 suburban sway bar. I think it was like a 98. All I needed was the frame brackets and made my own mounts on the axle. I used a 99 Escalade rear end later on and installed the true trac in it.the Escalade rear had the mounts already from factory
Refreshed the rear end with new 3.73 gears and a true trac differential. I also took this time to remove the slip yoke and shave it down to remove etching , nickel plate .002 oversize and turned down to oem size(didn’t cost anything, I work in aerospace electroplating)
I've looked around and cant find one a good picture of them. I want it to breathe from the fender hole as intended from factory. so far i dont have any complaints from my setup as it uses the oem filter and box.