1993 Chevrolet C3500 Crew Cab Restoration/Cummins Build

Just when I convinced myself I didn't need a 12 Valve powered one ton.

Can't wait to see it all buttoned up!

Love the progress...I bet you're ecstatic to hear it run

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rolla711 said:

Love the progress...I bet you're ecstatic to hear it run

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Click to expand...

Yep, it was a good feeling. next step is to see it move! Got most the parts, just need trans cooler, lines, dodge PCM, and some other odds and ends like the shift cable.

JScott23 said:

Yep, it was a good feeling. next step is to see it move! Got most the parts, just need trans cooler, lines, dodge PCM, and some other odds and ends like the shift cable.

Click to expand...

I've been watching a guy working on Cummins, he ran his transmission cooler under his bed and made his own lines. Figured I'd tell ya if you wanted to try that to avoid any hiccups with the swap.

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Just read this whole thread! Man I thought my 6.0 swap was a job! My hats off to you! Great work and ingenuity! I've always wanted a diesel gmt400. I like your other truck as well. Those ccsb are hard to come by. I was just about to build my own when I came across mine. Naturally I had to paint it the color I wanted. Currently I'm putting a 6.0 in it backed by a 4l80e. Keep up the good work brother!

Okay folks, long overdue update. I've been making pretty good progress on this thing but have been way too busy to share any updates.

So first, the entire time I've questioned how i'm going to merge the dodge first gen down pipe with the 4" diamond eye for the 88-00 trucks. got sick of thinking and just ordered this. A section of 4" pipe with a little bend in it. Worked out perfectly. It bends the exhaust up and back into the path of where the diamond eye kit. (or factory exhaust would go)



Then since i'm working with an automatic obviously cooling is important. Picked up one of the bigger Derale remote mount coolers that i could find. Used summit braided 8AN lines, which should help keep this thing nice and cool.





Now i played around with different mounting locations, but ultimately i just didn't like the idea of trusting an electric fan to cool the transmission, especially when i'm going to be towing. So underneath the front bumper, i welded up a little bracket to hold the trans cooler.

Now i know the location exposes it... but:
1. I bought some steel mesh to build a little skid plate.
and
2. I'd rather buy another cooler at $150 than rebuild a trans because of heat.

I won't be driving this in the winter, so it's really not going to see salt or anything of that nature. In my opinion the angle will help force airflow into it. I also plan to utilize a relay to only run the fan for temperatures above 180 degrees. I haven't purchased this yet, but i also plan on running a double deep finned transmission pan. If this isn't adequate enough, i'll throw the factory heat exchanger back on, but honestly, i'd be shocked if it doesn't keep it cool.



And since we went ahead and ran braided transmission cooler lines, i figured i would go ahead and run 6AN braided fuel lines, and 8AN braided tappet cover drain lines that will flow into a catch can below the cab.



The fittings for the lift pump are a Brittish size (1/2" BSPT), so if anyone goes this route definitely make sure you get the right ones. I used a barb to 6 AN fitting for the return and some fancy blue hose clamps to keep everything together and clean looking. I'm not going full race truck so i used 6an fuel line. Some guys in the performance world use 8AN, but for me... 6AN will do.

As for the shift linkage, i wont upload pictures, because it depends on whether or not your truck is rod or cable shifted, but basically what you need to do is get a push pull cable (most recommend Lokar) and make it work.

Just keep in mind 47 series trans are shifted in a the opposite pattern as your 4L80E. You also only have P-R-N-D-3-2-1 rather than P-R-N-OD-D-3-2-1 like the 4L80e.

I thought that would be the biggest hassle, but it really wasn't too bad.

Getting closer....

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And for the last and most entertaining part.... wiring.

Now if you're going to go the dodge auto route, you've got 2 options. The 47RH, and the 47RE. Most avoid the 47RE because it's electronically controlled. The 47RH only uses electronics to shift, so it's much simpler and can be run off switches or the $300 Compushift controller (which has a speedo output that matches the GM signal iirc)

The issue becomes, the 47RH was a 2 year option (94-95) and the 47RE was produced from 96+. So it's a lot easier and in most cases cheaper to get your hands on an RE rather than a RH.

Only thing, is the 47Re appears a little more complicated to set up. Your options are the $800+ Firepunk Anteater controller, or trying to figure out the Dodge PCM.


As far as the route i took.... well.



First off, it may look overwhelming but really it's not too bad. I'm working with a 96 Harness which i purchased along with my transmission from the guys at Tex Star Automotive Services. Can't say enough good things about them. They've helped me identify what wires in this harness are what.

They're currently creating DIY wiring diagrams for a variety of years, so you can merge the PCM of ether a 12V, 24V, or common rail into whatever swap you're doing. These diagrams from my understanding will be included with each engine/transmission they sell.




So this is what you start with:



Complete harness from the batteries, to the junction box, to the grid harness, everything. Basically the easiest way to do it is to lay everything out, figure out what goes where, and start putting it into the truck and hooking everything up.

Almost everything will plug in. For what i didn't use... i cut, heat shrinked the ends, wrapped and tucked it back into the loom. If you've got a bunch of time, you can unwrap, trace back, and eliminate every single wire you don't need. Personally i feel like that's the point of no return, because if you miss something or mess up you can completely ruin the harness. There aren't too many wires, i felt like it was easiest to wrap them back up and what not.

(I'll include an engine bay picture when i'm done)





Basically i cut out my alternator harness, and clipped the 3 main plugs that would plug into the junction box. That leaves you with a big chunk of wires. Near the PCM.

Now this probably gives some of you a headache. Don't let it. You only need a handful of these wires.


The other area you need to keep an eye on is the front section of wires up by the grid heater near the drivers side front of the harness

The thicker red/black wire is the FSS supply. I removed that, pulled it out of the loom all the way back to the main section of the harness. Then ran it over to the junction box where i spliced it into the old power wire for the 6.5 glow plug system.




Then from the area of the 3 plugs you need a handful of wires.



Thicker Brown: Signal when starter is turning (lets FSS know to kick on)
Thicker Red: Constant 12V (fused)
Red (14 gauge or so): 12 in run only (I used fuse tap into radio)
Light Green/Black: Ignition 12V
Black/Tan: Ground
White/Pink: Ground when braking (use 5 pin relay)

Then if you want a working OBDII: set aside

12V ignition, 2 grounds, Dark green & pink/dark blue wires (wrapped together in a swirl) are the send and receive for OBDII.



Then for the grids i simplified it. I cut the 2 part controller in half and ran the grids off one.



I did away with the other two wires and used these two wires to run the grids. One thick wire from the harness to the grids, the other cable to battery (around 6/8 gauge).

Basically one of these little wires is a constant 12V ignition and the orange/black is a ground signal from the PCM. So i ran a fused wire from the dark blue wire on the 6.5 harness (glow plug light) to the switch side of the grid heater relay to run the grid heater light as if it were factory only coming on when the grid heaters are on.


That's pretty much it, just plugging everything in and adding those wires. Basically i'm only running one of the two grid heater power wires, but it works. And I've tested it, it still gets pretty hot. I can always find another grid heater controller and hook it back up to run both with two 6 gauge battery wires, but honestly, it's never going to sit outside so i figure this will be more than fine for a spring/summer/fall truck.




Overall, the only thing i don't like, is that both the starter, and the grid heaters pull off the left battery. Likely will wear out that left drivers side battery a lot quicker.

That said, i have driven the truck around a little bit. It runs great, very strong. It's pretty fun to drive.


All i have left to do is to hook up the Dakota digital SG5 speedometer calibrator to get the speedometer working, add trans/EGT and boost gauges, and then start the paint and body work.

Updates coming in bunches...

Got a few things in the mail. Dakota Digital SG5 to run the GM speedometer with the 47RE speed sensor. I would've needed this regardless of transmission because i'm changing the gear ratio from 4:10 to 3:42. Just gotta figure out how to use it.




For the exhaust i just used the 4" Diamond Eye kit that you would use for a 6.5 truck. Used everything except the downpipe and the pipe that connects to the downpipe. Replaced that with a 2 pieces of 4" straight pipe since my downpipe is 4" from the turbo.



And the engine bay...

Need to fasten that main engine harness to the firewall, will have to go to the junkyard to find a pair of those big firewall wire harness clips. Otherwise everything looks pretty clean i'd say.



Definitely need to get a set of new intercooler boots though, then throw these behind the back seat for spares. Plan to keep some hand tools, the old boots, old alternator (with dodge pulley), a belt, and some fluids with the truck at all times.