1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

dagen_1 · Jun 11, 2012

chalk up another mod planned for my ole girl.

great write-up... thanks for posting

Swims350 · Jun 11, 2012

yea on the older trucks when the black box is removed, no more codes from it as far as I kno. My black box has been gone awhile and I get no codes.

Toms94z71 · Jul 2, 2012

This will be something I will do for sure in the next few weeks.

eric.s.t · Jul 2, 2012

great write up! ive been wanting to do this for a while now, but never did it cause i never understood how... but now these pictures really show me xD

sewlow · Jul 2, 2012

Great write-up!
Any info on how to do this on a '95+?

DRAGGIN95 · Jul 2, 2012

I copied this from another post that I made. I have done this several times, on 88-94 2wd truck like mentioned you remove the ABS control module and rear abs valve, be sure to keep the proportioning valve though you need it to keep proper brake bias from the front and rear brakes. Anyway run a new piece of line from the rear brake line junction on the frame just below the firewall to the proportioning valve and that's it. For 95+ originally there are 2 independant lines running to each front brake caliper that run directly to the ABS unit, there are 2 way's to deal with this, either unhook the both front lines at the abs unit and install a tee, or what I do is go the salvage yard and buy the front brake lines and proportioning valve off of a 88-94 the front lines on a 88-94 tee together originally so with this method there are no other tee's needed, I can get it all locally for $10. The rear on the 95+ still only uses 1 brake line that runs directly to the abs unit, it can be unhooked and hand rebent to hook up to the 88-94 proportioning valve, or you can just buy a new piece and run it from the junction on the frame under the firewall to the prop. valve. It's not difficult to do at all. Also one interesting note when the power and other plug's are unhooked from the abs unit on the 95+ the abs in dash light does not come on, even though you would think it should.

sewlow · Jul 2, 2012

Excellent! Sounds like I'm off to the wreckers, again! Thanks!

shelbyt.67 · Jul 2, 2012

Well done. I've been thinking bout doin this. Goin to fer sure now. Thx

Matt_92_2500 · Jul 14, 2012

I can confirm that this works on a 92 K2500 (4x4) RWAL WITHOUT any sort of adapter, direct fit, though some bending needs done to the rear line to keep it from hitting the inner fender well. Can anyone shed some light on the single wire to the proportioning valve? Is that the brake light sensor?

DGA1 · Jul 31, 2012

On 95+ one way to find out if it's your ABS unit causing the mush pedal is to pull the 60A fuse that's in the box under the hood. I did this to mine which has: 3500 calipers, stainless steel lines, new cylinders, rear shoes, new MC, and pads, even though this did quite a bit for the trucks stopping power, yanking the ABS fuse made the pedal feel much, much better. Only down side is that it will throw the ABS light, but as stated above you can just unplug the whole module and be done with that too, or go all the way and bypass the ABS module entirely.

1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

dagen_1

OBS 4 Me

Swims350

I'm Awesome

Toms94z71

I'm Awesome

eric.s.t

Stroked

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'

DRAGGIN95

Warranty Killer!

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'

shelbyt.67

Weirdo

Matt_92_2500

Newbie

DGA1

I'm Awesome

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