'89 Fun daily build

Roadmasters active suspension (lower/lowered/lowering)*

Just a quick update for anyone that might follow my build and wants to use these neat guys. If your truck is lowered you may need to notch your bed where the support crosses the Roadmasters. They are hitting this support so I'm having it notched and welded.



*tags for the folks using search

And we're back!

Solow Garage found several small issues like the one in my previous post. Most of it was warranty work through Miller but I also replaced the dried and cracked engine/trans mounts replaced with poly ones. They replaced both clutch master and slave cylinders with units from a company called Luk which fixed the issue. My factory clutch line was in bad shape so I got a ss braided one.

I've been working on the idle and sand drivability issues. Got a code for the MAF so I replaced that, didn't notice any difference and the only other code I have is 24. I've got an ECU on order since it's about the time those go out for this year model anyways.

In my research online and going through the manual I found that the TPS could also cause the specific symptoms I was seeing. It was cheap enough that I just replaced it without more diagnosis and kept the oem one jic. Seems like this was the big issue. It drives *much* better and the exhaust doesn't smell as rich anymore.

There is still a slight hiccup on occasion so I'm going to continue with replacing the ECU and hope that fixes my code 24. If it doesn't then I'll have someone actually diagnose the various sensor wires.

Project is on the back burner for a bit. My boss got tired of me having to wfh because of it being in the shop.

New daily

Nice! What year? Club or Grand Touring? I'm hoping to replace my daily Mustang with a Miata, as soon as I can quit spending all my savings on fixing the kids' vehicles.

Erik the Awful said:

Nice! What year? Club or Grand Touring? I'm hoping to replace my daily Mustang with a Miata, as soon as I can quit spending all my savings on fixing the kids' vehicles.

Click to expand...

GT, I didn't care about the racing seats

ECU wasn't the issue. It's been in the shop for a little over a month now. For the code 24 they hooked up a scanner and saw fluctuations in the VSS and IAT that looked like it was grounding out and traced it to a small nic in the VSS cable.

Going to have to RMA the Dakota Digital TPMS stuff, even working with DD the shop couldn't get the sensors to pair correctly.

Small update

TPMS
There's been a lot of back and forth on this, Dakota is working with us but hasn't gotten a solution yet. Yes it's been slow but they have still been wonderful to work with so still no regrets

Power train
Still not sure what's next, engine or paint, but I decided to get an estimate.

$14.5k For a forged 5.3 built for boost with a T56, both used but machined/rebuilt. Includes new wire harness and other parts as well as tuning. Pretty good offer, especially considering what I've seen from them.

Steering
There's been more back and forth here, the long and short is nobody can find where the issue lies for either issue. I called Ridetech and they said not using the drop spindle doesn't affect geometry so that isn't what's been causing parts to fail. Steering slack is still a mystery.

Audio
With everything being done so far I still haven't had a chance to take it back to get the amp rack enclosed

TPMS is finally working. Ended up getting 2 new sensors but that weren't sending the right ones so it took even more back and forth. Since it's been so long hopefully the 2 shops that broke them will still reimburse me.

For the steering, I'm still chasing this down. I'm going to reach out to a local shop that specializes in gmt400's. I also stumbled across a post from a fabrication shop that put on a Super-Duty Idler Arm and a Heavy-Duty Pitman Arm from MOOG who claims to have had success with this. The shop happens to be (very) local so I might reach out to them as well.


Updated ideas and plans

Rear suspension - I emailed Ridemaster and they said the RAS system I have installed can support an axle flip with some extensions that they sell but aren't posted on their website. Once the steering and audio work is done this will probably be next on my list.

I've recently discovered 180 degree headers and really like the look and sound they can produce when done right. These are now on my maybe list, need to learn more before deciding and I won't be doing the engine anytime soon so it's low priority.

I decided for the bed cover I'll get a folding one that can only be open from underneath and add an electric lock to the tailgate.

Now that Vintage Air has a kit for this ym I'll also get that instead of having the heater core replaced. I'd rather put more money into a better and more efficient system. I'm curious about the specs of their blower motor because ideally I'd like to have an air box made so I can use an air filter with it. When I'm getting ready to move forward with this I'll be reaching out to them.

I had Streetdreamz take another look at the steering while they had it for the TPMS. The owner brought in his own lowered OBS just so they could compare. First, they found the outer tie rods that were recently replaced have play at the joint so I'm getting those warrantied out. They also said the angle wasn't quite right. I'm going with the adjustable ones from Baer which should address both issues (LINK).

Here's a picture the shop took


These are some I took from above with the wheels turned out






I'm also considering getting the flip kit done while it's there, I'd just be getting the beltech one because I haven't found any other kit that seems to be better aside from Ridetech's, but you can't buy that standalone.