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pgutier1

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Working on the engine harness these past two nights. I am removing every unessecary gmt400 engine circuit, only keeping creature comforts and basic sensors.

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I'm totally lost on this...electronics is something I don't mess around with.
 

pgutier1

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I decided to swap in a gmt800 2005 chevy 11.5" 14bolt out of duramax. The benfits for me were: I got to keep the same 8x6.5" lug pattern, get a heavier duty full float axle, gain disc brakes, and a factory parking brake, I got the gear ratio I wanted, 3.73, already on the axle, it had a factory limited slip in it.

The axle was $100, I had to cut off the perches and weld on fresh ones, $30 from RuffStuff. My old axle needed a brake refresh so I figure that cost was not part of the conversion. I will need to figure out the proper ujoin conversion once I get a driveshaft made and will fumble around with getting the parking brake cables to adapt to the older gmt400 pedal.

Having done this, the main reason for me was for disk brakes. I would not spend the multi hundred dollars for a disk brake conversion on the older axle when you can swap in a newer axle for less.
I completely agree!
 

pgutier1

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The radiator was put together with a bunch of random coolant hose. Lower is 1.5” out of the block to 1.5” big block Chevy radiator, Cummins top port is 1.75” necked down to 1.5” with a coolant filter for now. I’m not sure what’s going to come out of the block so I’d like to try to keep the new radiator clean
Why not just flush out the block?
 

strikk

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This might be a stupid question...here it goes. On my rig, the roof is notorious for rust. I sanded it down to bare metal and then primed the whole roof and the rust came back, lol!. Would your proccess work well with the roof? I plan to paint the whole truck with a bed liner...

These parts look amazing!
Don't use POR15, you wont see it in any professional bodyshop.

Can you please explain a little more on this. Are you speaking about the NBS 11.5 FF? Don't these only come on the 2000's and up? I also want a NBS 11.5 FF so get one from a van because it has a wider track?
If you want to find one, sure go for it. The rear track width is slightly more narrow on all chevy/dodge/ford trucks of this generation, if it doesn't bother you now you wont be bothered by it going forward
What kind of epoxy did you use on the roof? Is this a better way to prep a roof than POR15?
Southern Polyurethane https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/epoxy-primer

Why not just flush out the block?
I ended up sticking the garden hose into the water pump inlet and ran the top rad hose into a bucket, let the truck idle for 30 minutes to get nice and hot. Nothing crazy came out so I think I'm good to plumb in the radiator for good now

@pgutier1 thanks for all the love man!
 
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strikk

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I'm looking over my drivetrain geomonetry and realized I may be missing a cross member that would hold a factory support bearing for a rear two piece drive shaft.
Does anyone have any information on which truck configurations came with a two piece drive shaft? My frame is an extended cab long bed 4x4 with a 4l80 trans and 241c transfer case.

I'm betting this frame came with a two piece rear driveshaft but wondering if anyone can shed some light or 'rule of thumb' on the topic.
 

strikk

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My K3500 has a two piece driveshaft, crew cab long bed.
I'd assume an ECLB would also have a two piece,
I suspect that as well, I don't come across many ECLB trucks in my area.
I've been using Bring a Trailer to look over pictures of trucks, these ECLB k series all have two piece shafts, looks like I need to find or build the crossmember that I am missing
 

HotWheelsBurban

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My K3500 has a two piece driveshaft, crew cab long bed.
I'd assume an ECLB would also have a two piece,
My CCLB is like yours. Some regular wheelbase trucks even have the two piece driveshaft. My '84 half ton square Burb and my '90 3/4 ton square Burb had them. Both 350 and 2wd.....
 
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