L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
The 383 does a much better job and the stock PCM is going to cap the maximum torque output anyway with torque management. My 383 gets substantially better fuel mileage than the 350 it replaced.
L31 daily driver rebuild
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The 383 does a much better job and the stock PCM is going to cap the maximum torque output anyway with torque management. My 383 gets substantially better fuel mileage than the 350 it replaced.
L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
PCM is going to limit the maximum torque of the 383 with torque management, but it will have a table top flat curve that peaks very early and holds until higher rpm.I guess I’m under the impression that the 383 is this torque monster that’s going to grenade my transmission the first time I go to pass someone on the highway
I feel the difference at the very bottom of the run is the rpm the pull started out vs the way the throttle was opened. A 383 of blueprints spec is stronger everywhere from off-idle to fuel kill.
Blueprints 383 has aluminum heads and a 96 LT1 roller cam. They basically borrowed the setup I had posted years ago that my buddy put into his SAS 1998 on 44s to model their own 383 after. That truck ran great on the stock PCM and ran even better when I made some tweaks to the tuning.
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L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
My stock 350 smoked a 4L60E in 38K miles then smoked a built 4L65E in 40K.I guess I’m under the impression that the 383 is this torque monster that’s going to grenade my transmission the first time I go to pass someone on the highway
I don't doubt that, but lets keep in mind that you are a tuning expert. Most of us aren't.
Also, OP is pushing less metal than you are.
You don't need a 4-bolt block. If you were towing or pushing 500 hp it would be worth the money. That 383 kit looks like a decent deal, but I'd call them and confirm what compression ratio you'd end up with. Are you planning on staying with the stock 64cc heads? Are you planning on decking the heads or block?
the one thing I regret in my latest 350 build was NOT going the 383 route. i too was trying to doing a budget friendly build, started with a junkyard 350. tore down, found similar things. bores nothing good shape, bearings not great. etc. ended up buying pistons and rods and getting the stock crank polished and balanced. i also think for anyone going the flattop piston route to just get forged pistons. i went the cast route and they are fine, but the added detonation resistance would have been nice. i also went through a set of TBI heads. while this had been a "dream" of mine to see what these heads could do with a little work I would 100% go aluminum w/ modern style chamber. I think you posted an aluminum knock-off of the vortec style head? this is the route I would go for a "budget" build for sure.
as far as your transmission.... is it in relatively good shape? I can help you with a DIY shift kit that will extend the life of the trans if you are worried surviving behind. I know @L31MaxExpress doesn't like them, but i think his gas pedal is an on/off arrangement only, HAHA.
as far as your transmission.... is it in relatively good shape? I can help you with a DIY shift kit that will extend the life of the trans if you are worried surviving behind. I know @L31MaxExpress doesn't like them, but i think his gas pedal is an on/off arrangement only, HAHA.
I did some research on building my 350 after I spun a rod bearing. I found a local machine shop who can do all the work (on my 2 bolt main block), including a full balancing. A Scat 383 kit and all of his work was going to be ~$4500 IIRC using my aluminum heads and cam. That's when I decided to go with Blue Print's new, 4 bolt main, "383" short block for $4712.53 with zero deck, 12cc pistons and 10.3:1 compression with my 62cc heads. I'm glad I went with it instead of staying with a 350
Now I have a 350 short block (and an almost new roller cam assembly) sitting under my bench waiting for some other project...
L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
ON/OFF to ~1/2 throttle usually from a stop to cruising speed, lol. I usually try to get the engine up around peak torque while accelerating because it is a more efficient use of fuel for acceleration. Under load while accelerating from a stop up to speed the engine will always run most efficient around peak torque.
L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
I have one regret on the same castings I own. AFR does not even remedy the problem. They fail to machine the valve cover rail correctly to allow the stock stamped steel valve covers to fit. They need a small machining operation on the bosses for the perimiter bolt valve cover provision so that the steel cover can go on. It is a small detail but one that is irritating and even AFR goofed it up on their Enforcers.
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Skip White is the king of bottom-feeder junk. Stay the hell away from Skippy.
I've heard that there are "two" Skip Whites, and one is good, the other is evil. But if that's true, why isn't the "good" Skip White suing the "bad" Skip White, or changing their name, or something?
I've heard that there are "two" Skip Whites, and one is good, the other is evil. But if that's true, why isn't the "good" Skip White suing the "bad" Skip White, or changing their name, or something?
You don't need 4-bolt mains, you don't need a stroker kit, and you don't need aftermarket heads unless yours are cracked or severely wiped-out from wear. All you need is a fresh version of the engine you have already, although I'll say that if it was me, I'd square-deck the block, buy flat-top pistons from a TBI Caprice since you're buying pistons anyway, and pay attention to quench/squish distance.
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