1997 Savana, engine temp, fan clutch, trouble codes etc

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Peavey

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Hello again!

So, I´ve come across some new issues with the van (1997 Savana, Vortec 5.7) and I thought that maybe you guys could help me out. Again, I apologize if for any misspelling or incorrect choice of words as English isn´t my first language. Anyway, I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

On our way home from our family vacation, I noticed that the van started to run a bit hotter than it previously had done. This was a warm day (at least for being in Sweden) and the trip was around 500 km in total, with the rig being fully loaded with 6 persons, camping gear and what-not. At times, especially at lower speed, the temp.gauge would rise to the mark just before 210, but never go past it. I´m not sure whether this is normal or not but what I did notice was the fan clutch staying on way longer than it used to when we first took off (cold engine), and didn’t seem to engage when the temperature was rising. When we got back home, I replaced the original (at least I think so) clutch which showed signs of oil leak with a new one from my local dealer (US Motor Works, P/N: 22158). I am not sure if this was a good call from my side as this new fan clutch seem to have a life of its own, sometimes staying engaged forever and sometimes releasing right after take-off. To ensure a good, functioning cooling fan, which products should I buy? Hayden clutch? Replace the 5-blade metal fan with an 11-blade one? Which one in that case? The van is equipped with dual A/C.

At the end of last summer, during a longer run when me and my buddy were on our way on our annual fishing-trip, the engine started stumble a bit. A few miles down the road I had to stop and turn the engine off due to a road construction. When trying to start it again after a few minutes, it would crank but not start. We pushed it aside and the cheap scan-tool I had with me showed an intermittent code P0337. Since we were in the middle of nowhere, we just took the CKP sensor out, wiped it off and put it back. The engine started and showed no signs of this same behaviour until a couple of days later during the trip home. Now it really started to stumble, like running on 4 cylinders, but didn’t “die out” completely. Having the scanner already hooked up, it showed another intermittent code: P0341. Eventually the “cough” went away and I was able to get home without calling for a tow truck. Both the codes “disappeared” by themselves and have not returned since then. I have only driven the rig shorter distances since then, but no problem has re-appeared. From what I´ve read, the CKP is a fairly common problem. Would you say that replacing it and perhaps also the CMP is the way to go or is it possible that the error is somewhere else? It is also worth mentioning that the van usually cranks a lot longer before firing up when the engine is “half-way” warm to warm.

Someone (not me in this case) has stripped the threads in the oil pan sometime in the past. The plug can be tightened so it doesn’t leak but it feels like something I want to address. If one were to go down the route of a self-tapping oil plug, do you have any recommendations? If not, is replacing the oil pan a big job on these trucks? Would you recommend replacing something more “while in there” except for the pan and gasket?

I realize now that I´ve written way more than I first intended, sorry about that. Thanks in advance anyway!



Best regards
 

Erik the Awful

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If the 210 degrees is accurate, it's not a concern. That's a normal summertime engine temperature around here, especially if you were loaded. If it gets above 210, go through your cooling system to make sure it's in good shape.

Pull your crank position sensor (on the bottom of the timing cover) and make sure it's clean and free of metal powder or shavings. If it doesn't show signs of contamination I'd replace it.

Replacing the oil pan will probably require unbolting the mounts and raising the engine an inch or so - I had to on my '89 stepside. I'm not entirely sure my new pan fits correctly, so if your pan isn't leaking, I'd definitely look into a self-tapping plug.
 

L31MaxExpress

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If the 210 degrees is accurate, it's not a concern. That's a normal summertime engine temperature around here, especially if you were loaded. If it gets above 210, go through your cooling system to make sure it's in good shape.

Pull your crank position sensor (on the bottom of the timing cover) and make sure it's clean and free of metal powder or shavings. If it doesn't show signs of contamination I'd replace it.

Replacing the oil pan will probably require unbolting the mounts and raising the engine an inch or so - I had to on my '89 stepside. I'm not entirely sure my new pan fits correctly, so if your pan isn't leaking, I'd definitely look into a self-tapping plug.

The oil pan on my 97 slides right out, even the 5qt version. I had to remove the converter cover and unbolt the stock exhaust but it did come out rather easily.

I would upgrade to the 11 bladed fan. It improves idle cooling as well as the ac function.

As for the crank no fire, put a new crank sensor in it. They are known for this issue as well as kick back on the starter.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Also forgot to mention, look for a slot worn into the face of the old crank sensor. As the main bearings wear the crank reluctor can gouge into the face of the sensor. Most quality crank sensors come with shims to adjust the air gap. If the crank sensor has damage, I would consider rolling some new main and rod bearings in while I had the oil pan off. Degrease and pressure wash the crossmember and oil pan before you tear into the engine to keep dirt and gunk out of the engine. I run a 5qt pan, extended windage tray (requires 2 additional windage tray studs) and a M99HVS on an ARP oil pump stud in all my small blocks.
 
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Peavey

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Hi again!

All right! Thank you so much for your replies!

Regarding engine temp, I acutally looked at the ECT temp on the scanner to verify the gauge and it seems pretty accurate. About the fan blade, is GM 1580739 the way to go (as in bolt-on, no hassle) or is there another option as well? Would it make sense to order a Hayden 2744 and replace the US Motor Works 22158 at the same time as the fan blade (since it appears to operate somewhat strange)?

I´ll have a look at the sensor again and check for any damage, though I do not remember seeing anything of the sort when I took it out on the roadside with my friend. If there are shavings or similar (and I do hope there isn't), is it really possible to replace the main bearings from underneath with the crankshaft still in? If so, how do you replace the "upper" half so to speak? I can understand the rod bearings (since you can push the rod and pistons upwards in the cylinder) but can't really see how it would work on the mains. Never done that operation on a V8, only on a 4 cylinder some time ago...

Anyway, I think my pan is a 4 quart, at least by the looks of it. Aside from having an extra quart of oil, are there any other benefits of upgrading to a larger pan and the specs as mentioned above by L31MaxExpress? I am not looking (at least not for the time being) to add any performance or similar to the truck, just want it to be solid and reliable.

Again, thank very much for your replies and feedback!

Best regards

//Johan
 

L31MaxExpress

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It is completely possible to roll the upper bearing halves in and out with the crankshaft in place. I have done it numerous times. The bearings spin into place fairly easily.

That is the fan blade I typically use on these trucks and vans.

5qt pan helps by keeping the oil cooler when you are having to work the engine for acceleration and climbing grades as well as provides additional dilution for contaminates, keeping the oil cleaner longer.

Windage tray helps keep the excess oil off the crankshaft enabling it to more quickly return to the pan. Windage control is free power and thus fuel economy and helps prevent oil aeration.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Most Chevy small blocks use 5 quarts of oil for a complete fill. The filters back in the earlier years would hold almost a quart. What I do on my 5.7s, which I use the AC PF1218 filter on, is fill the filter with fresh oil. Most of the time this is about 3/4 of a quart. Both my trucks have the towing package with external oil cooler; that increases the capacity a little bit. So I have a 5 quart jug of oil, that goes in the fill hole once the new filter is installed. I give it a few minutes for the oil to get into the crankcase, and then start the engine and run it a couple of minutes. The oil pressure should come up almost immediately. Then I shut the engine off, wait a minute for the oil to drain back into the crankcase, and check the stick. Usually after a day of driving, that last little bit of oil in the quart bottle, will be needed to top it off.
This is my experience with Chevy 350 Vortecs; the TBI and carbureted engines are pretty similar except for the filter I used(PF35 or PF932 depending on clearance).
 

L31MaxExpress

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Most Chevy small blocks use 5 quarts of oil for a complete fill. The filters back in the earlier years would hold almost a quart. What I do on my 5.7s, which I use the AC PF1218 filter on, is fill the filter with fresh oil. Most of the time this is about 3/4 of a quart. Both my trucks have the towing package with external oil cooler; that increases the capacity a little bit. So I have a 5 quart jug of oil, that goes in the fill hole once the new filter is installed. I give it a few minutes for the oil to get into the crankcase, and then start the engine and run it a couple of minutes. The oil pressure should come up almost immediately. Then I shut the engine off, wait a minute for the oil to drain back into the crankcase, and check the stick. Usually after a day of driving, that last little bit of oil in the quart bottle, will be needed to top it off.
This is my experience with Chevy 350 Vortecs; the TBI and carbureted engines are pretty similar except for the filter I used(PF35 or PF932 depending on clearance).
TBIs and Vortecs both have a 4 and 5 qt oil pan option from GM. That is 5 and 6 qts total with a filter. I ran the 2qt filter for years as well, 7 qts total.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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TBIs and Vortecs both have a 4 and 5 qt oil pan option from GM. That is 5 and 6 qts total with a filter. I ran the 2qt filter for years as well, 7 qts total.
So if there's 2 different pans, how do you know which one you have?
Other than what it takes to read full on the dipstick...
 

L31MaxExpress

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So if there's 2 different pans, how do you know which one you have?
Other than what it takes to read full on the dipstick...
The shape of the pan itself and where the drain plug is. The 5qt pan uses a longer windage tray as well that goes forward one more main cap. 2 additional studs and nuts to hold it into place.



4qt pan
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5qt pan
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This is what the Milodon tray I use looks like. Takes a small amount of grinding to clearence the tray for the M99HVS pump. This is what it looks like when it is finished and the pan is ready to go on.

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